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Condor
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Everything posted by Condor
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I get all my tires online. Lately it's been Jake Wilson in Utah. That's where I picked up the E3's. Memory fades, but I think the front and back cost $220 on the doorstep with the free shipping. So total ran a tad over $300 mounted and balanced on the bike. MOF the local Y dealer didn't even know about the E3, but liked what they saw.
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Wow!! Can you imagine how that would free up a wheelchair bound or handicapped person.
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I just had E3's installed by my local Y dealer. Dropped the tires off and then rode the bike over the next morning. $90 bucks out the door. It runs about $30 bucks per tire off the bike around here, so I figured for the extra $30 bucks is was worth having them remove the tires. Dropped the bike off, went and had breakfast at a cafe down the street, and the scoot was ready to go when I got back.
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Great!! Yepper, reservations would be good.... BTW we need a Cody Countdown Clock.
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Just for the heck of it check the maintainer. It may not be maintaining....
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I'm not a big fan of the 'chrismas tree' look on the back of a scoot, yet I do realize extra lighting would be beneficial, so I'm going this direction and find a set up to change the rear directionals to running/brake/directionals. The link doesn't list a plug and play for the RSV, but it may not be listed?? If they don't the search begins....
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We'd really like to see you at the International in July, but the first two weeks in Sept would see less traffic and fewer tourists. You will be dealing with Labor Day Weekend activities the first couple of days, but it will give you an extra day if they'll let you tack it on to your time off.
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Ignition switch failure
Condor replied to jrcain32's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Thanks Don. Looks like one that may have come in the kit. Looks like a relay is on tap for the near future. Too bad your maintenence day is so far away. I sure could keep 'm busy..... -
Ignition switch failure
Condor replied to jrcain32's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I already have a push-on/push-off button next to the power port on the lower left side of the fairing. I wonder if it already has a relay?? One of these days I'll know for sure..... -
Right now the plan, after Cody, is for a group to head back to the West Coast thru Kalispell, so they can visit Glacier. Overnighting somewhere on the way.. Helena Motel 6??..and then Kalispell Motel 6. I already put the bite on my Brother to serve the group breakfast the morning after Kalispell 6. You going to tag along?? Cody2Kalispell
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Ignition switch failure
Condor replied to jrcain32's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
So if the failures occur when extra aux. equipment is installed and not relayed, then the possibility of failure with an OEM bike reduces greatly??? I do have driving lights on the '99, but rarely use them. Only at night, and that doesn't happen very often. Otherwise they're off. It would be interesting to know if any stock bikes have suffered ignition switch failure?? Another question. Are the driving lights spliced into the existing wiring or is it a plug and play set up??? -
Well first off Earl the center stand ain't off a 1stGen, it's a 2ndGen stand.... at least on this one... And what's wrong with cassettes? Have Cassettes..Will Travel. Who wants to carry around one of those cute little girly IPOD's when we have a manly tape deck on board.... And I don't serve a master... I have a Harem!!! Caliper?? See they are related. And a little biased ain't you Earl?? All bikes have warts. Comes with the territory. Good thing too. Huh?? Gives someone a chance to sell a bunch of kits for those warts....
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Post away Jay. Those are really nice pics....
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Looks like you're going to be ready for Cody in July.... Here's sometime that may help a little in your search. CycleKamp
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Didn't work for me. Maybe the site is overloaded with traffic??? So far 0 for 2.... In July will have lots of pics posted from the VR International, so be patient...
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My 84, 87, 90, 91,and 93 have center stands just like my 99....
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Just sheared off my clutch speed bleeder
Condor replied to Sandbagger's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
To remove the slave you're going to have to take off the middle gear cover. The banjo bolt is easy to get to once it's off. The slave is held to the engine casing by two hex cap screws. 6mm/#25 I think?? Once the slave is loose it will come out by rotating it upside down. Be patient... I'd take Earl's suggestion and pick up a new slave. Might as well since you're in there anyway. Then order another SpeedBleeder and get back on the road. I wouldn't bother sending the old slave in. Play with it...you might get lucky... -
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Not normally, but I'm not perfect and sometimes I have... Besides if the decline is great enough it only takes a little movement to get that sidestand to start to collapse. Don't ask how I know that..... I guess if you park your scoot like that, in gear or out, you've got bigger cajones than I have. Better to park it up hill and not worry. Ditto on the kill switch. Keeps the contacts clean...
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You can do this on the right front brake if you have a 'problem' bubble in the lines somewhere, but with a Speed-Bleeder installed it really isn't necessary. One thing I have found is that instead of initially pumping the brakes up to seat the pads, and then do the 3 pumps and bleed meathod, wait and just pump fluid through the system until all the air is out.... then pump up the pressure. I did this when installing new R1 Calipers on the '83 and had them airless and both calipers pumped up in about 10 minutes. What the deal is, is with the pistons pressed back into the caliper body there is a smaller cavity to air out. Once the air is out they're good to pump up and remain airless....unless you forget to keep the reserve topped off... It'll even work on the left side using the pedal...
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I hate to keep preaching about reverse bleeding the clutch to get the air out of the lines, but I haven't mentioned it lately, so here goes again..... When trying to bleed a clutch that is completely empty of fluid on a Venture, it’s very difficult…maybe impossible… to get all the air purged out of the lines normally because of the location of the reserve to the slave. Unlike bleeding the brakes where the pressure is built up by rapid pumping the pedal or lever, the clutch does not build pressure. Squeezing the clutch lever has to be done slowly and constantly. Using this method causes the air bubbles in the lines to move down toward the slave with each stroke. During the release of the lever the air bubble rises upward in the line. Air rises. So in effect you end up with these bubbles rising and falling and going nowhere. I seen threads over the years where the owner has struggled for days to get the clutch properly bled. Reverse bleeding is done by forcing DOT fluid into the bleeder valve and forcing the air up the line and into the reserve. This can be done several ways. If you have a Speed-Bleeder installed it will have to be removed. If you have a regular bleeder, the reverse bleed can be done with the valve in and open, or you can remove the valve like a speed-bleeder. I find the removal of the valve the easiest. Take a rubber ear wax remover blub... the bigger the better.. that you can find in your local drug store and snip the tip off a little bit at a time until it fits into the threads of the removed valve. It should fit snuggly and the tip should be a bit off the bottom of the hole in the caliper. Remove all the fluid in the reserve. Suck up enough new DOT 3 or 4 fluid to fill the bulb, insert it in the threads of the slave and force the fluid into the slave. Keep an eye on the reserve to make sure it doesn’t overflow. Not good. Sometimes you can hear bubbles as they make their way out of the line and into the reserve. If the bulb runs out of fluid it can be reloaded. The hole can be blocked off with your finger while refilling. When no more bubbles appear stick the bleeder valve back into the slave, adjust the level of the fluid in the reserve to about half full, replace the reserve top and you’re good to go. This whole process can be done in about 15 minutes. When done go for a ride. PS: After first opening up the reserve, lightly squeeze the clutch lever a tad. The surface of the fluid in the reserve should deform slightly. Squeeze hard and you’ll end up with fluid on you and the bike. Not good. What this shows you is that the expansion orifice is clear and functioning. If it’s plugged the hot expanded fluid will have no place to go, and start to push on the slave as if you were actually pulling the lever. The clutch will start to slip. This is also why the reserve should be only filled half way. I have seen owners spend a lot of money rebuilding their clutches, and all the reserve had was a plugged expansion hole. Hope this helps
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The number of pumps is varible depending on how ugly the fluid is when starting. If your fluid is clear, don't bother bleeding. However, I'd bleed them every other spring whether they need it or not....
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electroluminescent dash light
Condor replied to royalstar09's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Blue might look cool, but red won't mess up your night vision. It will make red needles disappear tho...... -
Link didn't work for me.....