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Condor
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Everything posted by Condor
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Yamaha still lists the 1300 and the 1300S. Maybe the 1300 is a myth...
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The link I posted didn't use touring either. Actually the first time I did and the second time I removed it to make sure that wasn't the problem. The big difference between your search and mine is you used 1300 S and I used the basic 1300. I guess there are quite a few 'S's out there, but when it comes to the regular RSV the landscape looks pretty barren. Yamaha still lists both models so I have to assume that the 1300S is 'chromier'...
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2011 Yamaha Royal Star Venture 1300 any distance........ Nothing... http://www.cycletrader.com/Yamaha-Venture+1300-Motorcycles/search-results?type=Motorcycle|356953&make=Yamaha|2321194&model=Venture+1300|764863243&year=2011:2011&zip=95608&radius=any&sort=year:desc
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Interesting. Out of curiousity I did the Cycletrader search and it came up with nothing.... The Myth lingers on....
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Who Me??? :rotf:
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I've never seen one. My local Yami dealer hasn't had a Venture in stock since 2010. They did have had a few TD's a while back, and they don't last long. I think the 2011 RSV is going to be the same as the 1994VR. Rarer than chicken lips, and falls into the 'Myths and Ledgens' catagory.... :cody
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Have fun. We're doing Disney Land with the kids in June. We have a 2 week window and will be doing it midweek. Almost 60 years ago my Gramp took my younger brother and I to Disney Land the second week it opened. When we rode one of the rides Walt was in the boat in front of us.....
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I just got my seats back. Tell me what you think.
Condor replied to YamaDuck's topic in Watering Hole
Well you aught to be. That is some awesome work. Best I've seen. Me thinks Dorsi may be getting a few more requests..... -
When you find a rip off like that turn 'm in. REPORT ITEM
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You definately found it. 200% of normal with 20+ feet on the ground. They're going to be skiing until next August. 80deg down here in the Valley. What a difference a day makes.... Hey!! That could be a song??....
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I'll wear one because I'm so hard to recognize and have a tendency to blend into the crowd.... But only if it's Condor Black.....
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Tools Explained DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh--!' SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. Hope you found this informative.
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For $10 you have a chance to win an Aluma Trailer at the VR Int Rally in July. Don't like the styling?? Sell it and buy what you want. They will come in choice of colors. Who know's, maybe it'll grow on you. As far as new motorcycle trailer makers, they're all over the place and some make very nice trailer. I have a Motorvation. Never heard of it? Neither did I until I went and looked at it. Very nice quality unit. So there are a ton of obscure builders out there. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder....
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Corrected PayPal address for 2011 rally donations
Condor replied to Black Owl's topic in Watering Hole
Joe... Condor here. In your Paypal account click on the transaction detail and tell me what it says. Also, email me the notice you received from Paypal. You can forward it to condor@cast-aways.com , Let's see if we can get to the bottom of this... Thanks. -
For 2 baggers I'd go with a 7Wx14Lx6.5H tandem trailer. A little more room, tracks better, higher GWV, and easier to balance the load.
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Prayers sent....
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Lewis, I'm sure it's been covered elsewhere, but could you give us the details on ticket prices again??
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Yep... We bought one of those 10x20's about 10 years ago. Cost about $200 bucks from Sam's. The only thing left is the roof. All the sides have shreaded. It didn't prove to be very wind resistant. Still $20 per year is pretty cheap..... I still use bike covers, and with 6 scoots those folding porta-garages are out of the question.....
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Because I don't have a garage... that has room... I have probably bought and 'killed' more covers than anyone, and the best I've found for long term protection are Cycle Shak's. They're heavy cotton duck and shed water like one. They also have a 5 year warantee. However, this winter I picked up a couple of covers from China off Ebay to give them a try. I've bought Chinese in the past but the quality wasn't all that good. They made better overnighters than anything for weather protection. Recently, If you look closely at the listings, they started putting out an 'All Weather' cover. So I figured what the heck and bought two. The material is a bit heavier that the older covers, and surprise... they shed water as well as the Cycle Shak's. For winter time protection they are working very well. I just put them over a couple of other marginal covers, and if any water gets through we're all in trouble. The big factor in a cover degrading is UV. Those black covers turn gray by the end of the summer. But for $20 bucks...who cares..
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Geeze youse guys show no mercy.....
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I'm pretty sure it's an older Bustec hitch. I have a couple of Bustec MKII trailer hitches and nether one is what they currently offer. To make absolutely sure send them a pic. That's what I did. I might also add that what little I can see of the electrical plug, it's looks kinda Bushy... :cody
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Yep, speeds fine. All other online activity is fine. It just acts like it's a fart of it's a$$ crosswise, and only until it passes gas. Then everything OK again.
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It sometimes takes a couple of hundred miles for you spine the break in....
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I have my Royale Star Venture for sale at $450,000. Beat 'm all.....
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If you back off the right side and the idle starts to drop, then the right side is controlling the idle. This happens when a Previous owner doesn't know where the idle 'knob' is and will start turning the sync screws in on the #4 or #3 carb. The #2 carb is the benchmark for all other carbs to be set to. With a tight 4&3 even when you turn the knob it actually opening up the right side. So. Here's what needs to be done the first time a new owner tries to sync his new2him bike. I wrote this up a while ago because I got tired of writing it from scratch every time. There is a method to my madness.... This is something I stumbled on while syncing several different 1stGen bikes. I’ve never done this to a 2ndGen, but feel it should work equally as well. Take it for what it’s worth, but basically it is carb syncing from scratch, or Carb Sync 101. This could increase gas mileage, throttle response, and smoothness After checking the sync on a set of carbs, and ‘tweaking’ as necessary, there’s the possibility of getting the sync screws on #4 and #3 over snug, and one of the other carbs becoming idle dominate. When adjusting the idle screw, the idle is not being controlled by the #2 carb. . #1 Adjust all idle jets to 2.25-2.75 turns out from closed before starting the engine. #2 Start the engine and let it warm up, and then turn it off. #2 Back off all 3 sync screws several turns. #3 Restart the engine, adjust the idle rpm to 1000 using the idle knob (the engine will run very rough at this point but don’t be concerned), and let it warm up to operating temp. #4 DO NOT HOOK UP THE CARBTUNE YET #5 Adjust the sync screw on #1 carb (LHS) by ear until the rpm barely starts to increase, and then back it off a tad. . #6 Turn off the engine, and hook up the Carbtune. #7 Check the balance between #2 (LF) and #1 (LR). They should be close to balancing. Tweak as necessary. #8 Here’s where things start to happen. Move to the right side and using the rear sync screw adjust the balance of #4 (RF) and #3 (RR). They should be way out of sync. As they start to come into balance the idle will start to increase. When it gets above 2000 reduce the idle back down to 1000 with the idle knob on the left side. Continue adjusting 4 and 3, and continue adjusting the idle as necessary. #9 Once 4 and 3 are in balance, balance the left to the right using the front sync screw. That should do it. Blip the throttle a few times. Things should be good.