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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. Condor
    Mike I just sent you a PM that may help....
  2. Condor
    Hi Squeeze. The lip of the clutch master cup only retracts far enough to expose the expansion hole in the master barrel. The feed hole remains behind the lip of the cup. In the past when ever I've had air come out that hole it came out very slowly, and in little strings of micro bubbles. Now I can understand undoing the lever and letting it sit for an hour or so, but everyone that gives advice on the tied lever 'trick' never mentions this. The air just doesn't disappear magically... The first thing the person will do after releasing is pull the lever to test the clutch. A little of the air will spurt out, but a lot of it will go back down into the line. If the clutch is allowed to sit over night without the lever being pulled back, in the morning there will only be fluid in the barrel. The point I'm trying to make is the same thing would happen leaving the master sit overnight without tying the lever to the grip. Sorry to be stuburn about this, but I put the tied clutch lever in the same catagory as the Jason Mod....
  3. Condor
    I don't know nuttin'.... What happened to the Busa??
  4. Condor
    Just keep a close eye on the sidewalls. If they're going to crack it happens fairly soon. I know what you mean about the handling. Loved every mile I put on my set, just couldn't put up with the cracks.... Keep the psi at max sidewall pressure...
  5. Condor
    Anyone still have a good condition final and shock laying around after triking their bike that they haven't found a new home for yet?? I'd be interested in adopting it..
  6. Condor
    That would be interesting. I have a couple of extra sets of 2gen fins. Maybe at least hold them up to the head to see if there's a possibility??? Don't think drilling is an option, but maybe someway to attach them to the existing side cover plates, and dummy fill the 2ndGen holes??? It may be more trouble that it's worth??? That also gets me to thinkin'... I wonder if the chrome bling from a2Gen valve cover would fit a 1stgen?? The gaskets are the same....??
  7. Condor
    Dan, I'm not talking about bleeding the clutch, or bleeding the brakes... The point I'm trying to make is pulling lever back and holding it against the grip overnight will not let any air out of the line. When I first read about it years ago on this board I gave it a try. Full compression, and as some others suggested half way. Neither worked. I hadn't rebuilt any masters yet, but when I did I finally understood why it didn't. I don't have any first hand experience with a lot of things Venture, other than what I've learned second hand reading about it here, but one thing I do know a lot about is brakes and clutches. Leaving the clutch lever alone and letting the bike sit over night, with the reserve placed as high as you can get it, will actually have a better chance of working.
  8. Condor
    That's them....
  9. Condor
    Which side does Alan need??
  10. Condor

    On a Whim

    Condor replied to wes0778's topic in Watering Hole

    I bought 6 of those Chinese covers and they fit both the 1st and 2nd gens fine. Maybe they shipped you XL's?? Actually the '91 sitting side by side with the '99... the '91 actually looks bigger. I use them as a sacrificial covers. They shed rain very well... for about 5 months, and will last as a UV for the summer. Then at the first rain of the season it's off to the dumpster and a new one is put on. The better cover remains like new. In the past the high end cover would last a couple of seasons and then succumb to UV, and replacing them every two years or so got to be pricey. It was cheaper to toss an 'el cheepo' every year....
  11. Condor
    If you haven't already been there the Grand Canyon is a must. Take in the Hoover Dam on the way. I'd make it an overnight trip and stay at one of the motels in Tusayan about 5 miles from the gate. There's 3 Best Westerns. We did a helo ride from there when we visited. It was great. We hit it early in the AM and left mid afternoon and drove back to Vegas. It's an OMG moment the first time you see it....
  12. Condor
    Nice design Gary. I don't think you'll have a problem over braking, or at least any more than can happen with a set of early R1's. With the 1-2 split pad set up and sequential application it looks like it'll be a great mod with an improved 'feel'....
  13. Condor
    I ran into a fit problem when replacing the lowers on my '83 with a later set. The upper tabs didn't line up with the '83's frame. I can't remember what year I used but it did color match the '83 gold, so either '84 or '87?? The '85's may fit.... or not??
  14. Condor
    Not much of a case, but if you say so?? Also, if you don't get good results reverse bleeding...although it's not the subject of this discussion... you're not doing it right?? And if you or your racing friends are not able to keep the air out of the lines while flushing, you're not doing that right either... Personally I'd rather go riding.
  15. Condor
    Nice job... I'm also tall, and the rear view is about the only thing I don't like about 1stGens. A real PITA keeping track of what's behind you. The mirror view is also one of the things I like about my 2ndGen.
  16. Condor
    Squeeze I think you need to read all of my previous posts before passing judgement on what I've posted. We do agree on one thing. Air can't escape with the lever pulled to the grip and left over night. But.... I'll reiterate. Just securing the clutch lever against the grip, and leaving it that way overnight, in itself will not purge any air in the lines.... Will not work!!! For those reasons already posted. But here's a few answers to your explaination as to why it will... Any pressure created by pulling the lever back is not enough to cause air to gather into larger bubbles, but it will cause the air molucles to compress and to become slightly more soluable. Releasing the lever in the AM will not allow the air to escape thru the expansion hole as there isn't enough pressure to force it through, and bouyancy alone is not enough for it to pass through that hole. Pulling back on the lever will only force the air back down the line unless done in small short bursts. Putting the banjo bolt at the highest point will trap air behind it. The reserve needs to be the highest point in the whole scheme of things. So if you still think I'm wrong...that's OK, I'll bleed mine in 20 minutes and go ride. See ya'll tomorrow...
  17. Condor
    Dan, with all due respect... Truthfully have you ever rebuilt a clutch master, and watched what happens when you pull in on the lever? And, yes I've heard of gravity, but it's bouyancy that causes the air to rise......
  18. Condor
    The Venom has a center rib and I found the the 'squigles' were reduced over an E2. I think it has more to do with the tire compound than tread pattern. Like Earl I've gone the E3 route because of the Avon sidewall cracking. The E3 has a pattern similar to the Venom. Maybe different bike geometries react to treads differently??
  19. Condor
    Like a lot of theories they still have problems in application. Remember, we're talking about bleeding the clutch, not the brakes. You can't build up pressure in the clutch line like you can with the brakes... With the lever clamped to the grip, air can not get to the master. The 'cup lip' moves beyond the micro hole and cuts off any possible air egress... Now maybe some air does gather in the base of the master cylinder in front of the cup, and the next morning you release the lever. What happens? Upon release the cup moves back allowing fluid from the reserve to by-pass the cup into the cylinder, and the slight ambiant pressure from the reserve fluid hinders any air from readily passing through the micro hole. You squeeze the lever again, and ooops there goes the air back down into the line. DOT III is thin, but still has a viscosity and air doesn't travel freely like water, and that hole is so small not much can get through it quickly. I have been able to just 'tap' the lever slightly and get micro bubbles to make it through the micro hole by increasing the pressure ever so slightly in the cylinder, but it takes a long time to get any large amount to pass. So again clamping the lever down isn't going to get any air out of the lines. Another thing that needs to be addressed is; do not leave the top off the reserve overnight. DOT 3&4 absorb moisture very easily. That's why it's better to use several small bottles of fluid rather than one large, or at least keep the larger container capped, and why bleeding the brakes should be done every year but not later than two. Leaving the top of the reserve off has the same effect as any exposed fluid and it will absorb moisture. The air in the line problem usually only happens the clutch is being bled, and can reduce grown men to tears trying to get it out. Speed bleeders help a bunch, especially with the brakes. With the clutch, and the lines purged of air, they work great...but don't help a bunch when there is air in the lines. That's when I champion reverse bleeding. My
  20. Condor
    Sorry Dan, but it can't.... Explain to me how the air can get out of the system. I willing to learn...
  21. Condor
    Lemme check around and see what I can come up with Annie..... Here's the part numbers in case someone doesn't know what Alan is looking for... 11 4XY-2317J-00-00 DAMPER 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 12 4XY-2317K-00-00 DAMPER 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
  22. Condor
    Sorry to pick on you Earl.. but it's not you... I coulda chose Dan.. or a lot of others .... I see this method suggested all the time, but it's an old wives tale. It's a physical imposibility for it to work.... With the lever tied to the grip the master piston cup moves past the only two air outlets that exist in the system and will trap any air that can escape into the reserve. The amount of resistence pressure applied to the lines is not enough to reduce the size of the air bubbles significantly, and since they have no place to go, it makes no difference. You'd be better off leaving the lever out, and turning the bars to the right stop, eliminating any 'high' spots in the line, and letting it sit overnight with the reserve cover on. Getting the bike upright off the side stand would be best.... those lucky 1stGen'rs with their center stands!! .....
  23. Condor
    I don't see where that would make any difference at all. The E2 looks like a mud'n'snow tread and the Venom has the high performance side tread. Performed fine in all types of riding.... Did you experience problems when you mixed yours??
  24. Condor
    There's two camps on the mix/match subject. Some won't and some will. I'm on the mix 'm is OK side. Ran a Venom on the front and E2 on the rear with no ill effects for over 4000 miles until the rear finaly wore out. Then I installed the new rear Venom.
  25. Condor
    It's absolutely true....
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