Condor

Buy a couple of used lowers and have them color matched and painted. After 12 years the paint of the bike will have faded a bit.... Matching them with a spectometer is the way to go.

$500 is a lot of bucks... unless it's for the whole bike?? I just picked up a V-Max final in really nice condition off eBay for $100. That's the place to look....

Nope. Found the pic on the web years ago... thought it was interesting and saved it. It was built with a 2ndGen motor.

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3849

I was going to say that. Thanks for beating me to it Goose....

Since I've gotten a few requests for braces, I recently placed an order for 10 more, and they should arrive in 3-4 weeks. Here's a link to the Classy Ad if anyone is interested. Just in time for spring riding.

Looks kinda stealthy in a Star Wars kinda way...

Very Nice!!

Here's a webpage that I refer to occasionally for cars, and if you scroll down there are a few videos that might be helpfull on 4/5 wire connections. http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

Why does fault have anything to do with it....?? I didn't see anyone place any blame, but if I misled you in what I posted I appologize. However, if I can make it clearer.. if you have a big a$$ you will sit farther forward on the tank. Personally I think the RSV seat is great for S..XL builds, but if you're XXL...XXXL+ it sucks when riding over 200-300 miles per day. I'm gonna go pop a top now....

OK, if the rods came out, and were put back in without paying attention to whether the flat ends were placed against the ball, the rods will bind in the tube. If you look closely at the rod ends, one end has a small flat spot, and the other is rounded. If the rounded end is placed next to the round ball it will cause the ball, or rod, or both to rub off center against the wall of the tube, and not operate smoothly or even bind.

Hate to be the black sheep here, but a big YUP, and height doesn't necessarily have anything to do with it. Extra padding in your a$$ does.

You might give http://www.mcmaster.com/ a try.... And I'd go with stainless if they have them.

Miles scored on some LSD again....

So I gather the 1stGen's are better bikes.....

I have a couple of 160 lums that I carry in the trunk of the bikes. They are a 3AA LED model with high low strobe settings. The high and low are OK, but the strobe is a PITA, but what the 'H' ...sigh... they were cheap. Then about two months ago I picked up a lot of Sears Craftsman electronics at an auction, and there were two of these in the mix. I loaded one up with 6AA's to test it, and Holy Guacamole Batman!!! Talk about strong!! It burned a hole in my office wall.... And a waxing moon went to full... Youse gotta be carefull because you hit anyone with one of these things on the low setting and you'll blind them for life. Who needs a strobe setting?? I bought the whole lot for $50 bucks, and everthing worked, even the multi-meters, and sound DB meter....

I think the Zumo and the Street Pilot have the same type ball mount. I put together a set up using the RAM articulating short arm, and a stainless steel clamp sold by an eBayer. Originally I used the RAM ball mount that RAM stated fit the SP550, but found they don't know what the 'H' they're talking about. So I went back to the eBay seller and found out that he also makes the ball to fit the 550. Couldn't be happier. The attached pic shows the clamp/arm/ and RAM ball. One of these days I'll take a pic of the mount with the 550 ball.

One of the big differences between the 1st and 2nd gen bikes, and not discussed very often, is the front fairing mount. The 1st is frame mounted, and the 2nd is fork mounted. Which one is best and why??.

I've been happy with MS Front Page. Started with FP98 and I think the lastest version I'm using to edit my website is FP2002??

I ran into a similar problem with the slave on my old '83. The head busted off one of the hex cap screws. It made it kinda difficult getting the slave out because of the 1/4" stud still left in the block, but after a lot of wiggling around, because I didn't know what the 'H' I ws doing, it finally did come out. I bought a set of stud remover sockets and they worked great. I think the removers would probably work on a hex screw too. The only real problem that could possibly arise is if the threads busted off right at the block...

Sometimes I'll run into the back problem. When I do I right click on the link and open in a new tab. When through delete the tab and your back.

Thanks for keeping your eyes open. I think that is the same one that was listed for auction a while back. $125 is more than I'd be willing to pop for just the lid. Originally I thought the spoiler would make up for some of the cost, but without the LED strip it doesn't. I really don't care if it's cracked in half. All I need are some of the plastic boxing and baffling to repair the broken parts in this one....

$5,501.00......

Looking to buy a trunk off any year.. any color.. 2ndGen. I'm mainly interested in one that still has the interior plastic around the LH catch and LH strut, plus the strut parts. I need to repair the '07's trunk due to someone getting overly agressive when trying to close it. Hoping there's a member with a left over trunk that's bent beyond repair. MOF I don't need the whole trunk, but cutting out the catch and the LH strut corner would make it a lot easier... and cheaper... to ship.

Sorry Bob, but I don't agree. Granted, some of the farkles listed have no value other than polishing the apple, but you'd be hard pressed to replace other items that are very hard to find. The tape/guage mod is one such item. The LED spoiler has been discontinued. Someone that's in the know will be swayed to not grind as much. Those that don't know buy Harleys.....