Condor

The last time I saw it, it was hanging from Squids Lid in Susanvile....

Or are there others having the same proplem. When I'm reading an ad in the classies and click on the supersize link I get this... http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/images/ipending.gif When I click on the picture itself it'll change the image in the larger window. So is it me or a Classified glich??

I always prefered the Foam OEM grips, and when mine fell apart I ordered new foam sleeves... http://img.jpcycles.com/product/5000115_A.jpg

I'm in for one!!

I really like that... If it's home made someone did a heck of a nice job...

Actually no one knows for sure. Don's the keeper of the formula, and sometimes he doesn't know... It's a closely guarded secret.... It kinda fluctuates like the tide...

I've read where some folks have changed out the wheel bearings to high speed quality. Those smaller tires are going to be turning up a storm compared to the bike's tires. Also you can replace the tires with Carlisle high speed trailer tires. I had them on the Motorvation and was surprised to find they were actually taller....

I hope the blanks fit your bike. There's about 7 configurations of the key blank for 1stGens. Not sure if it holds true for 2nd's. The eBay key blank does look like my '07, but my OEM key on the '99 is totally different. When you ordered did they ask what year the blank was for?? If not there could possibly be a problem. Also the Chinese are masters at copying. The OEM blanks are brass, but these look to be pot metal and they will break off with too much applied pressure. You don't want to fish a tip out of your ignition switch...

One last thing that could cause the problem is cold solder joints in the CPU..or something like that. It's in the dash behind the center display. Resoldering the pins usually takes care of the problem. There's even a write up on the web somewhere... I was going to do that on my '83. Had hi-beam, but no low. The high has it's own circut.... Anyway I lived with it for a year or so and then found another mint dash on eBay and when I replace the original...wahlah.. I had lights again.

pegscrapper... did a couple for me although I'm not sure if he's still doing it. Lynn.... if you are, and read this, let us know... I have another one...

Ahhh... I first start by toggling the kill switch back and forth a bunch of times to make sure the contacts aren't dirty...??

Give this a shot. Try backing off the sync screws on the right side. Even the balance. Then back off the #1 screw on the left. Set the idle to 1000rpm using #2. Should run crappy, but it'll run. Turn in the #1 screw until the idle picks up a tad by ear and back it off a tad. Hook up the carbtune. Balance 2&1. They should be close. Balance carbs 4 and 3 on the right hand side.. It'll start running better and the idle rpm will start to increase. Bring it back down to 1000 as needed. It may even backfire and fart as 3 and 4 balance. Once 3&4 are in balance balance them with 1&2. Should be good to go with a more responsive throttle...

That was Jercoupe who mod'd the floorboards on his '07 for Bev. He has the bike up for sale in the classy's. Maybe you can talk him out of the brackets?? Or at least get an idea of what he did to lower them. I also think he posted a few pics here on the board. Not sure if they're still available but it's worth a shot to search....

Could it be?? The plug for the bleeder hole in a MarkII ignition cover???

Not all AGM batteries are created equal. There are different performance levels of AGM's. The best way to tell is to compare CCa capacities. Physical spec weight of the battery is another way to compare. Thicker plates... more weight.... more CCA's. Another thing to look for is the country of manufacture. If this Chrome battery is made in China or Taiwan, save your money. For the slight difference in price the DEKA made in the USA out performs them all. There are a couple of sources for DEKA's mentiioned on this board. Tristate is one and Bohannon is the other. Both are close in their pricing. Other members have mentioned that a couple of different retailers are carrying private lable DEKA's. They also seem to match the price of DEKA. I'd want to make very sure that the private lable battery is actually DEKA or something else... this month, and that may be difficult pealing off all the private lables to make sure. That's the trouble with private lables is that they can buy from different suppliers and they all look the same. My

I wish there was a way to send these guys a virus that will eat their hard drives in the email response.... Maybe a pic of a naked woman will do the trick??

Yep it's a '48. I just wrote up a big response to your post on a '58 before you edited it....

Way cool Miles. . Beautiful bike. What year is it?? I cut my teeth on an overhead '53. Bill Harrah had one in his collection that looked just like the one I owned, and I've always wondered??? :confused07:

I don't think a back rest is all that bad of a thing on a pillow top. IT will seat you forward more, but will take some pressure off the tailbone. One of the things that BB's suffer from on long rides is the constant pushing back into the seat and monkey butt being the result. Don't ask how I know that. Blisters and all. I'm not a big fan of the VR two piece seat, and much prefer the one piece on a 1stGen with the gentle transition from the driver to the passenger. I've ridden one for several 500 mile days, and one 700 without a bit of discomfort. That's why I planning on a trip down to Corbin for the day later this summer. Let the special services build me a one piece that fits my arse...

Actually you could have taken the cable out by undoing it at the front hub. The entire cable will pull out of the cover and you can lube away. I had a dash noise/speedo issue on my '83 way back when. It happen on my first long trip to a Venture West in Susanville Ca. and it scared the crap out of me. I fought it for several months and it only did it when it was cold. After riding a bit it would go away. Turned out that the cable end had unscrewed from the back of the speedo. Once it was tightened up the noise disappeared.

I kinda glad that every time I bought a firearm I bought a couple of boxes of ammo for it. Somtimes even more than I was looking for at the time because they were on sale... I did give a box of 00Buck to my brother up in Montana... DANG!!!! I guess rifled slugs will have to do....

Buy'm both..... Then they'll start to reproduce... Don't ask..

I been in a situation like she was experiencing. A group of about 20 going 60mph in the fast lane of a two lane freeway with a speed limit of 65mph where some travel at 75.. Not a car in front of them, and not passing any one in the slower right lane, and they had traffic backed up behind them for a couple of miles. After about 10 miles of this I finally found a break where I could pass them using the slow lane and cut in front of the ride captain in his leather jacket and white ascot flowing in the wind. I flipped him off as I went by. Would I do what she did?? No. But I'd definately cut in front of a group like that again.

If the only thing you're doing is turning off the bike and then having starting problems, IMHO, it's electrical, in the ignition switch, or kill switch area. Work the kill back and forth with a little cleaner squirted in the module. Do the same with the ignition switch. See if it happens again. If it was getting fuel and runing fine when you turned it off...fuel isn't the issue. Also check the fuse box and make sure the fuses are making good contact.....