Condor

Here's a pic of the front fork brace with the Owlie fork boots included on my '91. They just snap on over the tube.

Me too on that one. To average 89 the whole trip needed to be closer to 100mph to make up for pit stops. Back in the day Nevada didn't have a speed limit.. Bennies and Spare Tank???

Haven't picked them up yet, but will tomorrow. 10 total in clear aluminum. Go to FORK BRACE in our classys for all the info. Just in time for riding season...except in Canada....

They're charging for the progressive job as if that were the only thing they were doing and starting from scratch. If you supplied the progressives they shouldn't be charging you a dime, and I've got the springs for around $70 bucks from Bike Bandit in the past.

You've got air in the line. Reverse bleed it. Should take about 15minutes and you'll be good to go. Here's a write up on the procedure. It talks about the clutch but will work for the brakes also. When trying to bleed a clutch that is completely empty of fluid on a Venture, it’s very difficult…maybe impossible… to get all the air purged out of the lines normally because of the location of the reserve to the slave. Unlike bleeding the brakes where the pressure is built up by rapid pumping the pedal or lever, the clutch does not build pressure. Squeezing the clutch lever has to be done slowly and constantly. Using this method causes the air bubbles in the lines to move down toward the slave with each stroke. During the release of the lever the air bubble rises upward in the line. Air rises. So in effect you end up with these bubbles rising and falling and going nowhere. I seen threads over the years where the owner has struggled for days to get the clutch properly bled. Reverse bleeding is done by forcing fresh DOT fluid into the bleeder valve, and forcing the air and fluid up the line and into the reserve. This can be done several ways. If you have a Speed-Bleeder installed it will have to be removed. If you have a regular bleeder, the reverse bleed can be done with the valve in and open, or you can remove the valve like a speed-bleeder. I find the removal of the valve the easiest. Take a rubber ear wax remover blub that you can find in your local drug store and snip the tip off a little bit at a time until it fits into the threads of the removed valve of the slave. It should fit snuggly and the tip end should be a bit off the bottom of the hole in the caliper. Remove all the old fluid from the reserve, if any. Suck up enough fresh fluid to fill the bulb, insert it in the threads of the slave and force the fluid into the slave. Keep an eye on the reserve to make sure it doesn’t overflow. Not good. Sometimes you can hear bubbles as they make their way out of the line and into the reserve. If the bulb runs out of fluid it can be reloaded. The hole can be blocked off with your finger while refilling. When no more bubbles appear stick the bleeder valve back into the slave, adjust the level of the fluid in the reserve to about half full, replace the reserve top and you’re good to go. This whole process can be done in about 15 minutes. When done go for a ride. PS: After first opening up the reserve, lightly squeeze the clutch lever a tad. The surface of the fluid in the reserve should deform slightly. Squeeze hard and you’ll end up with fluid on you and the bike. Not good. What this shows you is that the expansion orifice is clear and functioning. If it’s plugged the hot expanded fluid will have no place to go, and start to push on the slave as if you were actually pulling the lever. The clutch will start to slip. This is also why the reserve should be only filled half way. I have seen owners spend a lot of money rebuilding their clutches, and all the reserve had was a plugged expansion hole caused by old dirty crystallized fluid. Hope this helps

Try pulling all your fuses and put a multi over each hot to ground. This might help to get you close to where the short is???

When someone starts to get away from OEM, and rewire a bunch of stuff, it's anyones guess Frank. You might check with the p.o. 'buddy' to see what he did. This board is really good at tracking down gremlins in OEM, but none of us have a crystal ball...... And a pox on the guy that ripped your scoot apart....

I'll take one of the 5" Brian, US mailing. I'll send payment via Paypal with mailing address. Can I use your regular email addy?.... Condor.

No problem, and like I said in the original post the Dura Shield is a very good cover. I get mine off eBay for $37.00 on the doorstep. Heck I own 3 of them. But..... the BILT has better material, a 5 year warantee with Cycle Gear over the counter replacement if it ever rips, fades, or comes apart, for $13.00 bucks more than eBay. It's a no brainer, and if anyone can see themselves needing a cover in the near future, the BILT is the way to go.

The XL fits both the VR and RSV's...... You can also pick one up from a store if there's one close and save on shipping. Or.... I don't know if they have a $100 free ship policy, but if they do buy two and a trinket to get it over the minimum....

Because of my needs for storage I buy lots of covers for the scoots, and am always in search of a better one.... cheap!! Recently I posted about one I've been buying off eBay and it is a very stout cover. However I received an email from Cycle Gear and they have a special on their BILT Cover, normally $109.00, for $50 bucks. It's a great cover. True, it's a bit more than the eBay cover but the material quality is the best I've seen, and.... it comes with a 5 year over the counter replacement warantee. For those of us that don't have the luxury of garage space and our bikes are out in the elements 24/7/365 this is the way to go. The sale runs thru the end of the month and nows the time to stock up... I'm going back and pick up a couple more...

Here in Kalifornia all utility trailers require a PTI (permanent trailer identification) plate that's renewable every 5 years for $20 bucks. My only beef is that the plate is the size of those on a auto instead of smaller like on the bike. Some of these smaller trailers look like they are all plate on the rear.....

On my '99RSV I found that the highway pegs let me extend my legs in two ways. By letting my heel rest on the front edge of the floorboards and the ball of my foot on the highway peg, or resting my boot arch on the peg only. From your weight I can imagine you do sit a bit farther back into the seat. I have help pushing me forward... And I actually used to be taller than you, but not any more... My inseam is 34". If your's is longer I can see where the risers would be a big help.

I'd try taking a mixture of acetone and oil together and pouring it into the cylinders. Let it sit overnight. Try popping the clutch again with the plugs out. We did that to an old frozen Triumph Bonneville a long time ago and it worked. I also freed up a frozen Mercury O/B. I think I might add a little Sea Foam to the mix just because.

Swirley paint is for easter eggs.......

On the stinger length I wish mine were a bit longer... On occasion I have to back up the rig, and just like a short tongued full sized trailer, shorter equals less maneuvering response. I'm not talking a lot, maybe another 6" would make life easier. Right now when backing out of a motel space I let the trailer pick a direction and go with it. Trying to get it to go the way I want is a PITA....but once in a while I do get lucky..

I am so sorry to hear this. Prayers to you, yours, and her family...

That's why I suspect that all 2ndGens are the same blank. Don't try that with a 1stGen...

I thought the pics were uploaded and stored on the board since the other part works just fine?? And I have had this happen before on other ads. I just can't remember which ones...

11vdc is a dead battery....

TOO....

It seems to be iffy. I ran into a couple of listings that were OK, but the one for Miles' TD didn't work, and it looks like I'm not the only one....

Actually I think I ordered them from Rick at Buckeye. I had to trim a bit off the end to get them to fit. Maybe that's the way to go???

Yuck.. Kapuwi.. Terrible color..

I just made a visual comparison of the '99 and '07 keys and they look like the same blank even though they have a different head. So maybe the 2ndGens are all the same design. I do know that a 1stGen has several different blanks. The key code and blank number are stamped on the back of the ignition switch housing. The blanks are numbered F1,F2,F3,F4,F5,F6. Hope yours work. Before getting them coded try them in your switch to make sure they will fit in the keyway...