Condor

Simple answer... Yes. Will it be hard to prove?..... Yes. Pump the tire up to 40psi and let it sit for a week. If it leaks down some you may have a very slow leaker, and it could have caused the knock down. 15psi will handle like mush... You never did mention the brand of tire??? Age?? Miles? Etc....

The heck with the scam, that girl has some moves. She can stunt for me anytime....

My '07 power plug disconects when ever I turn off the ignition. I leave my GPS plugged in all the time and automatically activates when I turn the key to the on position. Isn't there a 12vdc plug made that you can plug a usb ended power cable into to power up the Ipod?? There wouldn't be a draw in that case.

I just bought a dark tint Show Chrome 10". Actually 2 of them. I lucked into a deal while surfing. $50.00 bucks each, and shipping free over $100. Generally they run around $60 ea.. So the '99 and '07 are now lookin' goood!!....

Probably a moisture related short somewhere. Do yourself a favor and drop by a Cycle Gear store and pick up one of their BILT bike covers. Cheap insurance during the monsoon season in AZ. Cover is guarantee'd for 5 years against anything. Even UV damage. Over the counter replacement

This is a great find. Now I need to figure out what I did with the non-op pump I took out of Seven. Hope I didn't pitch it... Repair it and I'll have a pump ready to go when needed. I'll also know whether I'll run into any snags with installation. If it really does work out I can see some industrious member on this board selling rebuilt fuel pumps and making a few bucks on the side... Skydoc??....

I'm jealous......

Outside of the stud threads being worn out, the way they stay on is to tighten them just till the threads get a thread and a half bite into the plastic of the self locking nut and get hard to turn. The first time I had a set I kept wanting to tighten them till they were snug. Didn't work and they wouldn't come off without using a pair of pliers on them. Kinda defeated the purpose of the things in the first place. Now I know.....

The battery age code is generally printed on the side of the batt somewhere. A8 would be Jan 2008 for instance. B would be Feb. Cleaning the anodes won't help a weak battery. Plus even a newer battery will go bad if allowed to discharge completely over a long period of time....

I'd stay away from doing anything like that. Tire company's spend a bunch of money in R&D developing tire treads designed to perform to maximum for the tires intended use. Siping was done back when tread and compounds were lacking. This place is trying to dig into your pocket book, and probably ruining the tire warantee in the process. I'd go to another dealer...

My question would be why the 'H' is he out riding in a lightening storm in the first place???

I think what you need to do is get a tach and get the R's at 50 on both bikes to get a better idea of what's going on. If they are the same then it could be a number of differences between the motors to make one lug and the other to not....

Yep there are spacers behind the covers....

I don't have any cool pics of my very first bought and paid for scoot, but it was a 1953 Ariel Square Four. I loved that bike. Rode it everywhere the summer after high school, and the first couple of years of college. 25,000 miles worth. Heard it before I'd actually saw it. Still remember that 4 cylinder Offehauser exhaust lope. Roll on the throttle and all you could hear was that roar and rumble. Bought it for $350 bucks and sold it for $350 four years later..... Wish I had it now..

Anyone have a manifold that fits under #4 carb on a 2ndGen. The part number is 4XY-13586-00-00, and is listed as a #1 joint... I'd think that there might be a few floating around after all the mishaps we've been having lately with 2Gens... The one on the '99 looks like a peice of swiss cheese. The other 3 are fine. They run a little under $40 bucks on the web, and just trying to save a few... This rusted tank screw up is getting very expensive....

I'm truly saddened by this Heather and my prayers will be offered up for Steve, but especially for you and your family. I can relate first hand how devastating this can be. I may have received his last grill about two months ago after his return from a trip. I also won one of his donated grills at the Cody International Raffle in 2011. So now both of my bikes have a connection to a great guy. Peace be with you. ~Condor~

If your sender is a non-op, I think Freebird posted a repair thread, with pics, a few years back. You might contact him about it... I tried to find it without success. I do have a used post-ethanol sender for an RSV, but don't think it would fit your tank.

Good thoughts Brian. That was propably what caused all my problems with the '99 after the trip to Cody that I'm still dealing with. I don't know if this is true, but I understand that premium fuel is ethanol free. I haven't checked how valid this is, but if it is, it's going to be a diet of premium and Sea Foam in the bikes from here on out. OK I just did some research and found this..... sigh... There is a difference between states on whether premium gas specifically has ethanol in it or not. Or, more correctly, whether it's required to have it in it. Two states in the Union, Missouri and Montana, have specific exemption to allow ethanol-free premium gasoline. So if you live in one of those two states, you can be thankful. For the rest of us, we are faced with the unpleasant reality that the refineries are all but tied into putting ethanol in premium gas. This is because they have to use the ethanol to raise the octane level of their gasoline blend in order to satisfy the higher octane requirements of premium. This is one reason why you don't get better gas mileage with premium gas, because an essential part of that blend is a component that has less energy and forces the gas mileage down simply by nature. So in California I'm SOL.... If you check around you can find an OEM fuel pump for around $150 - $175. I know it still hurts the wallet, but it makes you feel a little better... The deal is that all OEM parts from Y are keystoned. In other words they are sold to the dealer at half of retail. So that pump..or anything else Y for that matter is doubled from $112.50.

I'm pretty sure the CLASS control is the same all the way thru from 83 on. Dan, are you looking for the front class cover, or that flip up dash panal that holds the class??

The plastic should all be interchangable on MKII's....

Just guessing here, but the vapor lock could be from over heating due to pump location?? It's fairly well covered up. I just replaced Seven's pump with an OEM because I was basically lazy. Now it runs very strong. So there may be a reason for both bibs to be on the inboard end of the pump and extra insulation may also come into play if there is any?? With Seven she just crapped out right from the git-go in the AM so heat wasn't a factor.... 80,000 miles on the odo might have been. The next time if it ever happens again I'll go the 42S route...

Here's one on eBay. New with free shipping. [ame=http://compare.ebay.com/like/290941656903?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar]YAMAHA 1NL-25836-00 COVER DUST *NEW on eBay![/ame]

There's a gromet that fits in the front slot that the front tab slides into and keeps it fairly snug. The tab at the rear should keep the cover from sliding forward and smacking you in the chest. If the tab is gone, the reason is there originally was a crush sleeve that kept the rear tab gromet from getting crushed and breaking the rear tab off. The crush sleeve falls out easily when removing the cover for anything, and that's the reason a lot of the tabs are broken off. Many riders use a large washer to keep the cover from sliding forward. So, if you have the front gromet and rear tab secured there's no way that cover could come loose... My

You can go ahead and replace all the pads with HH. ...or Sinistered.... your choice. If you're going to go the HH route you might as well do them all.

To keep the 70/30% mix the same I'd replace with an OEM style organic pad. You do know that the left front and the rear are linked?? When using the right brake lever you are only actuating the right brake caliper...