Condor

Probably. I don't know that much about the '96, but if you get you speedo reading off the final you may have to swap the gears out. Maybe someone who knows more will chime in...

Fetish??? Hey I sold a trailer once....

Other than our board members here I don't trust anyone with an RSV. To own one is to know one... Most are not familiar with the Venture, and even Y shop mechanics are not real Venture Wise due to not seeing them all that often, and were not even born yet when the first bikes hit the US. On your carbs...dump a whole 12oz can of Sea Foam in a full tank and run it. Also a carb sync will help... If none of that works get back to us with a more detailed discription of what your problem is...

Heck if it were closer I'd be bidding.... I see a bunch of money to be made. Trailer's repairable.

I agree totally Goose. The C.A.R.B. board are not the only idiots we have in this state. I'm sorry to say I live in Sacramento, and this place is full of them. Thanks for the help...

I did that to the '93 when I first got it, and the dang thing wouldn't start for 3 weeks. Probably flooded the TCI.....

I personally wouldn't go thru the hassle of installing it. You'd be better off plugging in an Ipod into the AUX plug. Which is what the PO of the '99 did and found he couldn't sell the CD player.

So I pulled the carbs off the '99 (California bike), and comparing them to the set of '08's I picked up from Pinwall I see that the air hoses...I think??... shown in the little inset of the carb parts diagram page are pluged off on the '08's. So I suspect the line goes to the smog valve mounted to the lower frame of the '99. Question??? What would happen if I left the line disconnected from the carbs, and just pluged the end. The lines connect to only 2 of the carbs. #2 and #3, and the bibs look like they come out of the bowls. Are they maybe vapor recovery lines, or?? Would this also disable the smog system?? I'm in the dark... Need some advice here....

The only way a motor will run without spark is deseling. I'm thinking the motor was dieseling, and the rpm wasn't high enough to disingage the starter clutch. I don't know that much about the starter electrical having a disconnect, but it may be why it continued sucking the amps???

Remove your pressure plate again. Place a finger on the push rod and gently squeeze the clutch lever. If the rod moves, your problem is in the clutch basket, and as previously stated take the basket apart and recheck your assembly. If the rod doesn't move it's in the slave to master, or if you've removed the rods and ball it may not be reassembled correctly.

The number... if I remember correctly was '9'. So it's a fairly small battery. The 18 and 20 we use have a bunch more. Car batts have tons...

Good post Bob. On a 1stGen there is a steel liner sandwiched in the rubber, and most times the external cracking will not effect performance. I never seen a post on whether the 2ndGen joints are the same way?? So even thought it looks scary leaking on the side wall may not occur. In my case the cracking was around the top lip where the hose clamp sits. Maybe tightening the lip would have sealed the cracks, but I didn't want to take the chance. Rubberized paint might have done the job, but all 4 of the joints had a lot of lip cracking. When the carb was inserted in the joint extensive sidewall cracking also appeared. If it was just one I might have gone the paint route. Plus the MPG sucked. So I decided to give the bike a lot of love and went new. PS: When i get the joints off I plan on taking a hacksaw to one of them to find out once and for all whether they also have the steel liner....

Highway pegs, trailer hitch ball, tranny gears, clutch slave, to name a few... You gonna need to build a whole new stash of 2ndGen parts....

I bought my set from Harbor Freight. Made in China but I don't plan on wearing it out.... I bought it on sale for around $30 bucks. http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

There's is no cure.... Buy stock in Dairy Queen....

Heal quickly Rick....

So are the batts you're buying AGM or standard wet cells??? I would think that filling an AGM and then sealing it wouldn't gaining anything since the AGM's have such a great shelf life, and last months without any charge at all. Every one I've bought is good to go right out of the box, and believe me with 7 bikes I've bought a bunch of them.

If mine didn't have the cracking around the top lip I would have tried some type of non-spray rubberized product like Plasti-Dip and brushed it on. It does come in a spray can but would cause a mess. That way you wouldn't need to tear the bike apart and remove the carbs. Believe me it's a PITA... If you have a shop do it prepare to empty your wallet. Since I already had the carbs off I went ahead and popped for a new set. $150 bucks for the set of four joints from my local Y dealer... and no I don't plan on lighting up...

I ran across this on Craigslist this morning, and wasn't aware AGM batteries even came this way. Everything I've had has been sealed and maintenence free. AGM BATTERY

They'll probably hold up just fine. I went ahead and ordered a new set for the '99RSV. After removing the carbs I took a closer look at the joints and they show'd a lot of cracking, even around the upper lip where the carb clamp sits. When this fuel system rebuild is done I don't want to ever do it again. So everything will be replaced from the tank to the head.

12,000rpm??

Told ya it wouldn't take 'm long..... Nutin' gets by these folks.....

Yep, that's the problem. I have a set of 1stGen's in my stash just because.... With 6/1st's in the stable??? Thanks for the thought.... I noticed a lot of back firing while in Cody, and I think I've finally found the reason. It musta been sucking air like a marathoner at the 26 mile mark...

After removing the carbs on the '99, the #4 'joint'....Y speak.... looks really bad. Worse cracked manifold I've ever seen. Tried to locate something on eBay....nada... Searched the Pinwall store.... nada... So wondered if anyone here might have one in his stash that I could buy?? They sell new for around $50 bucks each, and if I strike out here I'll go that route. Just trying to save a few bucks. This rusted tank project is costing a ton.....

I know it all depends on the plastic, I have messed up the paint over the ABS and it has only removed the paint. Nothing to the plastic. But you're right. Maybe a test spot...??