Condor

With all the 1stGens I have around here I go through a lot of covers, and an XXL will fit fine. MOF the XXL will fit both the 1st and 2nd Gens. Don't get caught in a windstorm with that XXX... That eBay listing is from down under and it'll cost more to ship than the $19 bucks. Just hope it's what they say it is. I go through a lot of that type, and 2 months in the sun and they're toast. I use them as sacrificial covers over the more expensive type. However that said, if the bike is kept in the garage out of the weather they do make a nice dust cover, or something for the motel parking lot... The best bang for the buck I've found so far is the BIKE cover from Cycle Gear. Seems to be always on sale for $50. What makes it so great is their 5 year warrantee. Over the counter replacement. So if it decides to start leaking, take it back and get a new one.... No questions asked.

Hey Larry- How much are the arm rests going for these days?? I tried to look them up in your vendor listings but couldn't find an ad....

One of the Star Riders who attended the VW14 'The Dalles' had his '07 triked last year, and the total for the Hannigan was $11,800. He had to take it to Salt Lake City to have it installed, but from what I gather he paid Hannigan directly, and they dealt with the 'official' installer. By the way he loved it, and I gotta admit it did look great. Attached is a pic of his sitting next to my '07. Sorta a before and after....

I have a 5x10 trailer with a ramp gate, and the RSV fits on it very comfortably. Anything shorter and it get's iffy.... BTW I just put one of those Harbor Freight chocks that's a copy of the 'Condor' chock in steel instead of aluminum. It's the best thing since sliced bread. Ride it on and into the chock and get off. No having to hold it upright while fiddling with the tie downs. http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_24675.jpg

I know nothing about the rear shock.... so far.., but wonder?? Can the mono shock off a 1stGen fit a 2ndGen? The first gen shock never seems to fail, and they can be found cheap on the net. It would save folks a bunch of $ if they could be used... Another thing is the 1st will pump up to 71psi while in the manual I think the 2nd is recommended to be max at 45psi. Just curious??

Oh..oh!! I think we've lost him??

For both. The sensors need a ground and the 'T' is isolated from the frame, hence the ground wire...

It's the diameter, and all 1stGens take the 8125 series bleeder... The stem lengths are reg, L, LL. The reg for the clutch, and the L...because it makes it a little easier to put the plastic drain line over... for the calipers.

One that will be too long is the one for the clutch slave. The longer type will make it a PITA getting the rubber cover to fit back on. Order the SB8125... The rest will take the L.

If the bowls are full the pump will not cycle. Generally the bike will run like cr@p if the pump is NFG. If the bike is running good go ahead and take the trip. Just take along a length of fuel line to by-pass the pump if it does go south....

First thing you'd wanna do is bleed the clutch. If the DOT is dark, it's time. It should improve. Also if the bike has sat for a long time sometimes the plates will stick together. Usually cured by rocking the bike back and forth while in neutral...

That's why I use a trailer, and even then I draw a crowd to watch... Can't figure out why yet?? My problem is backing off....

I'm with Bubber on this one. What ever floats your boat, and I don't have one either....

Metal is good... Since I don't have a drain valve sitting in front of me to look at, and I haven't had to deal with one lately, is yours on or off? Some of the plastic hex lettering will get pretty beat up over the years, but there's actually an 'off' on them to be aligned with the diamond pointer on the housing. When the valve is in the on position the coolant by-passes the thermostat, and will actually cause the motor to run warmer than normal.

I'm not sure if the '86's had a metal or plastic impellar in the water pump, but if they are plastic you might have lost a blade?? Another thing to check is if the drain valve was left in the 'on' position after cleaning the cooling system...

I seem to recall that place is named 'Indian Apple Less' Intergalactic Speed Way. Where all the trekies go to race....

Seven of Nine sez.... "Resistance is futile"

Now that was creative as all get out.... Nuff said...

See ya at Leatherby's.... Now as for the best burger in the west you didn't search hard enough... The Squeeze is OK if you like a little burger with your cheddar... I've had them and they's OK..., but The Flaming Grill just off I-80 at El Camino in Sacramento, by far has the best sirloin/cheddar burger know to the All Mighty. So I guess there's another reason you'll have to come back. We offer best burger guide services for those in need...

OK check the side stand to see if the kill switch is working. If the stand goes down a bit it will kill the engine?? Just a thought.??

The cable is probably laying on the road somewhere. Someone on the board may have a spare they could send you??

12.28 and 12.31vdc isn't the best condition for the battery to be in. Pull it out and take to your local auto parts store and let them put a load on it. If it doesn't have enough amps to keep things 'sparkin' the bike will die. Battery should settle overnight to 12.6vdc, and while charging the bike should be putting out 13.8 to 14.2vdc above 2000rpm. I once had a car battery that actually checked out fine in the volatage dept., but when hit with a load it croaked...

Looks like maybe the cap has separated in that area.

I'm with you Randy. No longer like the good ol' days....

Glad to hear you made it back to the barn OK John.... Looking forward to next year. The Dalles was a perfect venue....