Condor

I love 'bird dogs' that will flush HP's out of hiding....

All of the above are right on. One Last thing to add. The drain pan. There's a lot of different types, but recently while shopping at Sam's Club I ran across a bundle of those aluminum serving pans. Perfect for catching the oil and not having it leak out of a an old plastic tub that's been laying around forever.... Can't remember the price but if I recall they were cheep, and I now have a life time supply.......

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Had to laugh. I thought I was the only one that had a seating problem. Somewhere between 6'5" and 6'7".... and shrinking... The heel on the floorboard and the toe on the highway peg bracket is the most comfortable foot position for me. I also got rid of the H/T shifter and went to a T/T. Thinking about cutting the shift peg down to half the length. Sorta the same as a 1stGen. We also have big feet and the H/T is a PITA. I still haven't found a seat for the 2ndGen that is as comfortable as the custom on the 1stGen. 10 hours in the saddle and no problem. The Corbin seems to come close on the 2nd but no cigar... All I know is that the Pillow Tops fall into the same category as the H/T shifter. 7 days in the saddle and I couldn't feel my butt for a month when I got back. Arm position is also a problem. All I've done so far is to rotate the stock bars up as high as they'll go to where they actually hit the dash. I do have a set of Barons Risers around here somewhere that I may try. It's good to find out that there are a few more sufferers....and I'm not alone....

On the brake light. Make sure you reserves are only filled to the middle of the sight glass. This holds true for the left hand clutch as well. On the brake light, there is a baffle in the top of the rear reserve that will sometimes get extended down into the reserve holding the float under the surface, and it needs to be collapsed again. The only access is through the fill hole, unless you want to take the thing off, and it's best to leave well enough alone... Take a short piece of coat hanger with a 1/2" 'L' and you can reach inside and pull up to partially get the baffle collapsed enough to allow the float to .... Float... instead of being held down and triggering the light.

And The Bike Masters sold by Harley Stores are made in Taiwan. Stick with the DEKA. US made, and worth every penny. The difference between the 18 and the 20 has nothing to do with CC capacity, although the 18 does have a few more CC's than the 20. They are different foot prints, and will fit the battery box made for the OEM Yuasa's. 18 is 1stGen, and 20 is 2ndGen.

I'm going to take a stab at it and say yes... as long as you can shorten the rod. The shift arm can be set to the straight down position in order to give the stator cover a little more breathing room, and you should be good to go.

Most trailers have a Vin# stamped on the frame somewhere, beside the one on the tongue sticker. Check around in the basement. Maybe there's a clue??

Ditto...........

:thumbsup2:

Dang I'm impressed Kevin. I've never had the need to mess with a pre-99 Venture.. Yeah I know... so don't have a clue about Vin Speak, but can recognize talent....

If you feel like you're sitting on top of the tank without one, it will probably make things worse. That's my issue. I ride without the a rest, and use a Corbin instead of the Pillow top OEM. The Corbin gives me an extra inch of room, and I need all the help I can get. I do have a Corbin backrest somewhere, but haven't tried it, so can't comment...

You all are to going too slow.... :moped:The closer you approach the speed of light, glare doesn't become an issue

I started getting a bunch of malware pop ups and ran everything known to God to clean the stuff off the computer, but it still kept coming back. The hard part was it acted sporadically. We finally nailed the damn thing. My Wi-Fi router had been hacked and the settings had been changed. Went in and changed all the settings back to what they were originally and I'm now running great. So it might be something to look into if you're having a problem getting things back to normal....

Wagner.... As a bench mark I just purchased a 2004 RSV Midnight in excellent condition with 65,000 on the ODO for $3,000. Made it a Qwike for another $1200. I did think about having my '07 professionally painted black, but got cold feet when the price hit $2000. The '04 took care of my itch to own a Midnight. So... I think that if this '99 floats your boat, the salvage title issue is resolved, and the paint is a pro job, go for it.. It's a good looking bike. $3800 is not out of the question, but lesser would be nicer.... BTW a duffle will hold a lot more than a trunk.... IMHO

Carry an umbrella....

Torque wrench and hex sockets for the rotor screws. Replace the OEM .calipers with R1 or R6's.

Did you know... The Voyager Mounting Kit will fit both the 1st and 2nd Gens. The center stand needs to be taken off on the 1st, but all the hardware is the same. Also it looks like your Voyager is fairly late model. Nice looking...

Back in '07?? at the International in Ft. Collins, Co., that Squid put together, I think the official attendance was right at 125 bikes.

Also bad ground plane due to corrosion at the mount.....

Sorry gotta ask. Did you use a pigtail between the radio and the SWR, and have the antenna connected to the SWR. The reason I ask is that with out putting a load on the radio you will blow the finals, and that's what it sounds like you've done. The finals are gone and you're not putting out a signal... hence... 0 readings...

The '04 came without the tank badges... Kinda like it. Didn't think I would... But I did add Slowroll's Twinkie and carb covers... Might pull the eyebrows off as well...

I agree Bob. Let the planners decide where they want to have it, although in our experience we've found that they don't need to have it in their back yard. Until someone steps up it's a moot point. But just in case did I mention STURGIS!! Around June 21st... the longest day of the year. Lodging...Food...Camping...Riding??

Your carbs are way out of sync and need serious help. Try this. Remove the sync tool, put the bib caps back on, and then back off all the sync screws 2-3 turns with engine off.. Then start the engine and set the idle to around 1000rpm. It will likely run like cr@p, but it will run. Then turn in the #1 carb sync until the rpm starts to increase slightly, and then back it off just a tad. This is all done without the sync connected. Now it's time to connect the tool and fire it back up. #2 and #1 should be pretty close to being sync'd and will only need to be tweaked. #4 and #3 will be way out. Start balancing 4&3. The idle will start to climb as they get closer to being balanced. Re-adjust the rpm's back down to about 1000rpm. You may have to do this a couple of times. Once #4 and #3 are equalized balance to #2 and #1. You should be good to go. I think what may have happened is a P.O. or a wrench used the wrong screw to adjust the idle. It's more common than folks realize.

Too bad we can't pump some of that stuff out west....