Condor

Been thinking about this, and one way this could happen is when a partially full tank is sitting in direct sunlight the pressure build up 'could' force fuel past the pump. My midnight gets damn hot.... Fuel will expand, but not as much as air in a partially filled tank. I guess this wouldn't happen if the overflow was 2 way. Also a full tank could possibly leak fuel when overheated. There must be some reason why Yamaha went to the type fuel pump that they did.

Whew!! I can see this one going the way of a best oil thread.... I have all sorts of 1stGen seats, both OEM and custom. Even have a Corbin on the '91. Same thing with the 2ndGens. Early OEM's, Pillows, Butler Pillows, Corbins, but I'm gonna wait and see where this thread heads before going out and playing photographer. That said, I really don't think a 1st can be adapted to a 2nd. Not so much because of the attachment points, but because of the pan depth of a 2nd sits much deeper than a 1st. I think you should be looking at modifying a 2nd for a 2nd....

Very Nice...!!

Great post Puc. Personally I think it's the 'H' factor. Honda, Harley. Name association, and familiarity, play a bunch when it comes to a buyer choosing a product... Datson wasn't doing to well until they switched to Nissan, but still haven't knocked it out of the park. Yamaha recognized it, but I think made the wrong choice when they went with 'Star' Motors'.... Personally I think they screwed up, and should have kept it YamaHa. The name has been around since the 60's, and one of the reasons buyers buy is name recognition. Brand loyalty is a strong motivating factor. There are only two reasons why a sale is made. They, the buyer and seller, like each other, or the price is right. IMHO

Hmmm?? I guess riding allows me to escape the confines of gravity, and the effects of age... A bike is my equalizer, and as long as I can keep one upright I'm happy. PS: I have a trike waiting in the wings...

Nice sanitary job Stan. As a side note, a lot of folks have written about lowering the battery to supply clearance for the new ATC Fuse Block. Just wanted to toss this out... a 2ndGen 20L battery will work in a 1stGen with a little gaposis on either end, and Styrofoam will work to fill the gaps, and it' sits lower than the OEM 18L by about an inch. The battery was absent when I started messing with this bike, and not thinking I tossed in an extra 20L wet cell I had from the Cody trip. Didn't notice... or think... right away, but noticed the battery strap was way too long... So clearance isn't going to be a problem...

Awesome Video. Too bad it wasn't taken at night. I bet it would have been spectacular....

I ran into this webpage while doing some research on all years Venture. I thought it was great trip down memory lane for 1stGen'rs.... I also thought it was ironic as my daughter lives in Sault St Marie, MI, and my brother lives in Kalispell MT... Venture 1992

Thanks Kevin. Clears a lot of things up. I went back and took a look at a pic I took in the Battery Warning bypass write up in the tech section, and could see the pigtail coming off the side of the accessory fuse clip to the screw. And.... if I'da known I would have connected the bypass mod there instead of soldering it to the clip. But back in the day, bypassing the warning light was new stuff, created when we started going to AGM Batts. I gotta add that physically those screws do not contact anything. They're just a place that make it convenient to attach new play toys. That is one very nice job Heather. I don't care how long it took you to do it.... Rick, I was told about that place this morning when Rocket and I were on the phone. Too late to buy from now, but in the future it's a go to..... Gotta Link??? Thanks for all the input everyone. It's much appreciated. Now I think someone needs to write up a tech article. There's nothing in the tech section now, and it would be great to have it all in one place. These 1stGen's are getting older and more and more of them are going to need the ATC mod.... soon...

Got one ordered Kev....

I haven't got a clue Pete. After running an ohms meter on the two screw lugs at the front of the oem box I find they go nowhere. They're just coupling lugs. I'll have to go out and look at one of the other bikes and see what gives.... That looks like one hell of a project. Looks like it's going to be interesting once it's done. I'm a big believer in the KISS formulae myself. Thanks for the pics...

Thanks Kev... I did find your post a little bit ago. Nice job...and complicated... I just wanted to replace the oem box with an atc style. Kinda slide one out and the other one in. Problem is I'm having a heck of a time finding anything like it for less than $40 bucks. I even found another post with an exact replacement. The post was in 2011 and he picked the box up from O'Reillys, and it had the part number. So went over and they didn't know what the 'H' I was talking about. I may have to visit West Marine and bite the bullet?? BTW this is kinda what I've been after...

Several members have replaced their fuse panels with ATC types. I thought for sure someone would have written something up for the Tech section, but alas, I couldn't find a thing when I looked. Anyone have a link to a post that has a reference to a 6 way ATC panel with a ground?? The only types I could find sans ground... Any help would be appreciated....

Put your foot on the guard and bend it back out to where it's supposed to be. If you want to replace the tube for cosmetics reasons, go ahead, but if it doesn't leak and you don't mind the blem.... ride it...

Agree'd.... I think the Y electrical warrantee is 3?? Depending on the rider use it could last for years.... For some 30,000 miles is a year, for others it's a life time....

You could do it the same thing they do on the V-MAX rear end. Double the price, and refund the core charge when they send back the old 'repairable' pump. Shipping shouldn't cost more then $5 buck USPS Flat Priority. The used pump assembly I have weighs less than a pound.. I also bought both the used pump and a level float sensor off eBay for $20 with free shipping. Granted you have to shop.. So if you're into the repair $25 + 5, you should net $45 bucks profit for 30 minutes of work. BTW the cost of a new OEM pump is around $225 - $250, not $130. That's the reason eBay sellers are asking around $100 for a clean used one with no guarantee....

Just a heads up. I just ordered another 2 point sets from [ame]Amazon [/ame]for $25.38 ea. Free shipping. A heck of a lot cheaper than anything else on the market. I figure this will take care of any fuel pump problems as long as I'm going to be around riding a Venture. I bet some industrious member could start a business of rebuilding the pumps and sell them for say... $75.00 w/exchange. I'm still not sold on the Mr. Gasket 42S with all the plumbing and adapting you'd have to do to put one in.... Being a lazy sort personally....

Sorry that you had to go through the embarrassment of trailering your scoot... : I get imbarassed often... The Yuasa write up is interesting and gives a good understanding of what happens in a wet cell battery. However times have changed and most of us have moved on to AGM batteries made in the USA. Same principal for much better design. Deka seems to be the most popular, but some folks have had good luck with other brands as well. There are a lot of places that stock Deka's, but here's where I get mine. http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/deka/etx20l.html

Don't know much about your Dodge, but if it's computer controlled you might consider reprograming for MPG. The reprogramers aren't cheap, but if it works it'll pay for itself over time... The other alternative is.... quit driving so much, and ride the scoot more...

For rust removal this might be the answer and not have to coat anything. METAL RESCUE http://www.metalrescue.com/video.aspx?videofeed=5#videos

I hope so too Mike. Get that stuff inside the lines and it'll screw everything up. I've rebuilt quite a few calipers and never used an assembly lube. Just DOT 3-4. Brake pads will sometimes come with that anti-squeal stuff....

Probably one of your carb float bowl needle valves is stuck wide open. Trace back from the hose that's leaking to the carb, and pull the bowl drain screw out. Take a long skinny (broom straw) and run it up into the bowl and see if you can get it to move. It's probably just varnished up and stuck open. Once it's working you shouldn't have a problem.

Give her a camera and let her take pics, fire up the head sets to communicate, Let her choose the music, A sheep skin cover works for numbutt symptoms.....

Me cheat?? Never.... But you're right about Seven...

Yeah I did notice that. On a $30,000 bike you'da thought they would have kept it. Doesn't give potential customers a whole lot of confidence when a company lowers their coverage...