Condor

The Pivot Ball won't clunk either. Stow the stinger... even if the stinger is left in the receiver I can't imagine what it would take to get it to rattle around. When a trailer coupler is attached the 'slop' will be the same as a solid ball..... The difference between a trike lean and a 2 wheel lean are light years apart. The trouble is everyone who has never used the Pivot Ball have pre-conceived notions about how it won't work. I was one of them the first time I saw it. Figured I'd give one a try and became a believer. Easy to install, easy to stow, works great.. forgot to mention dropping the scoot at a gas station in Elko NV...., cheaper than a swivel.... and doesn't have a problem when braking.. A disclaimer... I don't have a thing to do with the Pivot Ball designer. Just think it's a better mouse trap....

I can't understand that second link to the GW1800 board. If the ball was laying all the way over to the left the trailer was laying on it's side.... or he had a trailer with a 2" coupler and the ball is 1 7/8", and even then I seriously doubt it would do that. The ball will lay over a bit, but not to that degree. I trailered all the way to the Cody International. 'Bout 3000 miles and forgot the trailer was there a lot. Especially when I hit that curb coming out of a rest stop with the left trailer tire and it becoming air born for a bit. The ball did what it was designed to do....

I think the ball you're referring to is this one. You may be able to find a used one for $10 bucks... if you can find one new3 or used.... I picked up a used one from a member a while back who didn't like it?? I think it's great. Instead of installing a swivel hitch, it only takes a couple of minutes. If you can find one new they generally in the 50 dollar price range.

So I gotta ask... Just how big are the cockpits in one of these critters??? Would they handle a large economy sized body???

Toss in the whole 12oz can in a fresh tank of fuel. Don't worry about burning it up quickly.... Sea Foam is also a gas conditioner. You can take your time... Afterwards a blurp in a tank every once in a while is good. Before storing my bikes for the winter they get a full tank of fuel and a full can of SF.....

One of my big gripes after visiting my Brother in Law at Homestead AFB was my wife and I couldn't see anything while driving there. Nothing but stick pine on both sides of the highway. It was like driving thru a tunnel. After Andrew went thru a few months later, my BIN said to come back, we won't have any trouble seeing the countryside.... As far as Homestead responding at the last minute, all the equipment was parked at an AFB in Texas. They started moving it out a week before Andy hit. There wasn't much left but empty buildings before Andrew and they disappeared afterwards....

A few years ago one of the members posted how to remove the rear tire on a center stand by removing the front tire first and setting down on the forks. Wonder what happened to that post?? Maybe it's still somewhere on the board???

I sold a low mile 87/1300 to a local, and he used the 1200 carbs and electrical, and it worked great.... I have an 83/84 with an 86/1300 in it with no problems.

Sorry about the mis-ID on the part. I thought what was pictured was the front V-stop.... I never noticed how deep my tire went into the flopper. My chock is lagged to the floor of the trailer and I just ride it on, and it doesn't have any trouble 'flopping'.. My front end does sit higher than yours in the pic, but it is solid. Right now the bike will come out with a bit of tugging, but if the tire sat any deeper in the chock I can see it'd be an adventure getting the bike back off.... Right now my trailer is a one man operation, and it works for me.

Certainly looks like the tire is wedged in the V to me.... That the same tire I'm using and it works fine. Also that V doesn't look like one from an HB chock...

It really doesn't go all the way in, but sorta wedges itself into the V. And as long as the tire is wedged it will stay. Going all the way to the bottom of the V and it'll wobble from side to side. Also the long side of the flopper is toward the back, not toward the V and you won't drop all the way into it either. Makes for an easy ride on and dismount.... The idea is to wedge the front tire into the stand tightly and it won't go anywhere. I didn't get around to loading the RSV's today so don't have any pics to post, and I'll be away til after Easter... However maybe you could supply us with a couple of pics of the V against your front tire??? And... what brand tire are you using???

Another April Fool

The point sets are available thru Amazon/K&L supply for $26+ bucks w/free shipping. Do a google for . With three 2ndGen's I bought 3 sets last year for a little over $25 ea. from K&L. IT still is the least expensive I could find....

Pretty sure it's a heat exchanger between the coolant and the oil... May keep the oil temp down a bit?? Or get the oil to flow quicker on cold mornings?? Or???

Gotta ask... Are you back firing up through the carbs when starting, or the mufflers when decelerating?? There's a lot of things that could cause backfiring up thru the carbs. Timing being one of them. The idle jets are when you are backfiring upon deceleration or so I've seen written.??... Personally I think exhaust come mostly from an exhaust or intake manifold leak somewhere... OR you're running on 3 cylinders....??

Interesting. I use the same chock in my enclosed trailer (2) and another in my transport trailer. Set at max width they all fit. It's tight but they work. I'm loading up the RSV's later this afternoon. I'll post a few pics of what they look like in the chock. BTW the front tires are E3's..... And I trailered the '07 to The Dalles last summer and the bike rode like it was on rails..... I've trailered bikes before under different configurations, and with the HB chock I was really impressed....

I just bought a Corbin for the trike. The seller only used it once, and it still had that new seat smell. $250 with the drivers backrest. That's about what they go for used. I have Corbins on all three of my RSV's and my '91VR. They like me. Not so the pillow tops. I thought the pillows would be the ultimate in riding pleasure, and for many they are, but for me it didn't work out that way. I'm tall and heavy. Not many around built like me. Consequently I crushed the pillow padding and put a lot of pressure against the back rise trying to get back off the tank. After a 10 day ride to Cody and back, plus a lot of touring around Cody the results were disastrous. My tailbone area was blistered, and my butt was so numb I couldn't feel it for months afterwards... That's because I'm tall and heavy.... 6'6"/ 340#. For some one lighter and shorter I bet the pillows are great. So even though you may think.. like I did..., that the pillow top is the answer, but have a large economy sized bod, you may want to think about it a bit. Before I bought this last Corbin I had plans on dropping an eBay beater off at the Corbin factory and have it custom re-built... today as a matter of fact.... but since I bought the new one, I'm gonna pass... and leaving for my daughter's in SoCal in the AM tomorrow. Have a Happy Easter everyone....

OK Kev. I finally took a look at the decal on the '91. Built in 8/90. Kinda confirms the low s/n.... The '87 is buried. It'll be a while...

Yes you are going to have to remove the fuel pump to get to the filter. The fuel pump only beats when the bowls are low. Try flipping the kill switch on and off with the ignition switch in run. It should give you a couple of beats each time. It's not all that difficult to remove it if you're not getting anything. Also try tapping the black plastic and see if that helps. If you do need to replace it there's a ton of info here. Try the tech section, or do a search for fuel pump. On the filter. It's a pita getting it removed as it comes out the top. A lot of us have relocated it up under the passenger seat.

OK, but you know what they say about opinions... However, I'm sorry that I may have dis'd your bike, and I hope it makes it to 300,000. And you're right about the engine wearing out. It's the rest of the bike that needs to be considered as well. Looking forward to hearing back from you when it hits 150.....

When trying to bleed a clutch that is completely empty of fluid on a Venture, it’s very difficult…maybe impossible… to get all the air purged out of the lines normally because of the relation of the reserve to the slave. Unlike bleeding the brakes where the pressure is built up by rapid pumping the pedal or lever, the clutch does not build pressure. Squeezing the clutch lever has to be done slowly and constantly. Using this method causes the air bubbles in the lines to move down toward the slave with each stroke. During the release of the lever the air bubble rises upward in the line. Air rises. So in effect you end up with these bubbles rising and falling and going nowhere. I've seen threads over the years where the owner has struggled for days to get the clutch properly bled. Reverse bleeding is done by forcing DOT fluid into the slave bleeder valve and forcing the air up the line and into the reserve. This can be done several ways. If you have a Speed-Bleeder installed it will have to be removed. If you have a regular bleeder, the reverse bleed can be done with the valve in and open, or you can remove the valve like a speed-bleeder. I find the removal of the valve the easiest. Take a rubber ear wax remover blub that you can find in your local drug store and snip the tip off a little bit at a time until it fits into the threads of the removed valve. It should fit snuggly and the opening should be a bit off the bottom of the hole in the slave. Remove all the fluid in the reserve. Suck up enough fluid to fill the bulb, insert it in the threads of the slave and force the fluid into the slave. Keep an eye on the reserve to make sure it doesn’t overflow. Not good. Sometimes you can hear bubbles as they make their way out of the line and into the reserve. If the bulb runs out of fluid it can be reloaded. The hole can be blocked off with your finger while refilling. When no more bubbles appear stick the bleeder valve back into the slave, adjust the level of the fluid in the reserve to about half full, replace the reserve top and you’re good to go. This whole process can be done in about 15 minutes. When done, go for a ride. PS: After first opening up the reserve, lightly squeeze the clutch lever a tad. The surface of the fluid in the reserve should deform slightly. Squeeze hard and you’ll end up with fluid on you and the bike. Not good. What this shows you is that the expansion orifice is clear and functioning. If it’s plugged the hot expanded fluid will have no place to go, and start to push on the slave as if you were actually pulling the lever. The clutch will start to slip. This is also why the reserve should be only filled half way. I have seen owners spend a lot of money rebuilding their clutches, and all they had was a plugged expansion hole. Hope this helps

North of Sacramento, over toward the coast on 101, we have the Ave of the Giants. If you're into big trees, this is the place. In NorCal we have a ton of great rides and places to explore. Hwy 1 is a must. Gimme a call when you get into Sac. I've got this great burger place for lunch....

Go get'm Herb....

I knew I'd get a knee jerk out of a few of you, but out of all the RSV's out there, how many have an odo with more than 200,000 on it?? How about 175?? That'd be a good question. How many folks out there have an RSV with 175,000+ on it?? Anyone???

One of the things that has been mentioned, and not discussed, is that the 2 pics of the bike were shot in SoCal. Yamaha USA is located in Santa Ana... SoCal. Not sure if any other brands are located in the area....