Condor

I'm wondering if you could McGuiver something that would be a little more robust using a couple of those clip on air chucks???

You said that it's still slipping with 2 up etc. And now I see where you mentioned that you haven't bled the clutch yet. You need to do that first. Then if you still have problems it might be easier to diagnose the problem. You can mess with the mechanical side of the clutch, but the hydraulic side might be the problem. I'm going to PM you a write up on bleeding the clutch. Maybe it'll help.

LOL..... Nope, never did. I just thought you were ignoring me......

Shoot!! Listen you young whipper snapper, you ain't even close to being golden. If I were as young as you...and know what I know now... I'd be dangerous!! We all have glitches during our lifetimes, but that's all they are.. a glitch. Wait until you're in your 70's before you start playing the 'how many years' game. I'll be racking up another notch next month and have gone thru a few of them, but the only thing I think about is how many more years do I have left... to ride..... and finding a girlfriend.... :-) WooHooooo!!

Since the oil question has been answered it might possibly be that there's still air in the lines, or the clutch reserve expansion hole is plugged up...... Maybe??

I think it looks better as a trike than as a 2 wheeler..... http://www.ridenowconcord.com/default.asp?page=xPreOwnedInventoryDetail&id=1147353&ni=1

A little late, but Happy Birthday Anyway Ambassador.....

So here's a thought about CA MC endorsement needs. In the state of Ca. when riding a trike they don't require the rider to have a MC Endorsement on his or her drivers license because they consider it a car??. We're also a helmet required state. Now.... since the MC endorsement isn't required.... Do we have to wear a helmet?? Yes, I wear one ATGAT, but have been thinking about getting something 'aerier' for those hot summer days, or maybe nothing in a pinch?? Which brings up another question. When riding a trike do you wear boots or tennys???

Apparently Ride-On has put more balancing material in their formula. I guess it pays to keep up on new developments. Way back when they actually stated that a static balance was needed, and then Ride-On would fine tune. So I stand corrected.

LOL Dion. Why don't you give it a try and get back to us with the results....

Yes.... The Ride-On will fine tune them, but the tire will need to be balanced...

I've had a lot of the smaller 1" Harbor Freight straps die a violent death too, but that's why I now use the heavier duty 2" type from Sam's. Never a problem.... Much larger rachet than the el cheepo's ....

6 straps may be a little overkill, but I guess it all depends on the type of chock the trailer is equipped with?? If it's a simple chock you may need all of them, but if it comes with something like a Condor Chock... No relation... you may need only 2. Sam's Club, and I imagine Costco, sell a set of long 4x2" rachet straps. I use two of them. One for each side The straps come with a sewn in loop in the short end in order to wrap around something instead of hooking onto it. That's the end I use to anchor the strap to the upper part of the front fork. Then it's off to the side rail of the trailer. Wrap or do a tug boat hitch on the rail and the take the long end back to the rear guard rail. Do another wrap on it and then off to the side rail again and tie it off. The whole thing looks like a big Z. All the while you're wrapping you're keeping the straps 'snug' That all the pressure you'll need. This way the bike can work with it's suspension, and will ride like it's on rails.

Couple of things to help. There's a circlip retainer in the end of the master cylinder that could be a problem removing. You'll need to get it out to rebuild the master. It's also hard to get to due to the piston shaft limiting the access space. So.... what you need to do is push the piston down into the cylinder and stick a small screwdriver or?? into the hole at the bottom of the reserve. This will keep the spring compressed and get more room to remove the circlip. Next you need to get a pair of sacrificial needle nosed pliers, and modify the tips to retain the circlip holes. See Pics. I imagine you might be able to buy a pair of circlip pliers, but the circlip holes are very small and cheap plier tips are too big and a waste of money. Place a towel or?? over the end of the cylinder when removing to save the circlip from launching into outer space. The second thing is before reassembling run a stripped wire twist thru the expansion hole also in the base of the reserve to make sure it's clean. You might also blow compressed air thru the brake line to remove any crystals and crud. Towel over one end, air in the other. As far as honing the inside of the cylinder, on most I don't bother. Just make sure it's super clean, and only clean with brake fluid. Hope this helps....

LOL... They'll get you every time..... We generally use #4 guage welding cable and roll our own. Cut it to the length needed and crimp on the ends. However it does help a bit if you own a large crimper... Much cheaper than marine grade and just as good. Now that I think about it, I bet Squid could have whipped you up a set??

Found this at Auto Zone. Probably other sources as well. http://www.autozone.com/fittings-and-hose-line-connectors/vacuum-connector-and-tubing/dorman-autograde-3-16-in-dia-hard-vacuum-tubing-restrictor-connector/369702_0_0/

What flavor are they?? I think I made a mistake by referring to the deep cycle Trojans as cca rather than 450 amp. hrs. There's a difference. I went back and corrected my post...

One set up we use on occasion is two Trojan T105 6vdc deep cycle batteries wired in series. That will give you 12vdc 450 AH. and a ton for house bank use. And there's plenty of amps to start an engine even if they are deep cycle. We run this set up with Diesels all the time. For a faster recovery charging we also will use a high amp alternator like a Baldor 130... Most marine engines come with 55amp. alternators, and rather than a 1-2-both switch we use a battery monitor. 450 amphrs is a lot of power.

I love pizza...and like all of you, have a favorite 'joint'... Mine is in Elko Nev. across the street from the Motel 6. Best damn pizza I've ever had, bar none..... Locally it's hard to beat Papa Murphy's for price and yum....

I own 2 of the c550's. The only differences I can see is the sunlight screen and weatherproofing.... Great little GPS. I picked them up for 50-75 bucks off eBay. There are few words of causion. Make sure it has Bluetooth, and is unlocked. The later the better, do to latest maps...

Geeze!! Thanks a lot..... Now I gotta go out and let 5# of air out of all my tires, and then go find a crack in order to know what they sound like compared to when they're topped off.....

That stuff has been going on for years on CL and eBay... When I list something for sale, I can almost guarantee I'll get the response in the first couple of hours. I disregard them.... I will respond to local or nearby inquiries only. I just picked up a Harbor Freight MC Chock in Stockton off CL. $30 bucks like new. Didn't make sense to buy it and drive down to pick it up, but I was heading that direction the next week and it worked out...

Didn't I see that exit off I-15 out in the Mojave?? Or am I hallucinating again???

Exactly my thought when I saw that post Brian. Too much damage can be caused using 'old school' mercury syncs. Hopefully if they are used the carbs are fairly close to being sync'd, or it could be come very expensive, and I'd never use them on a fresh rebuild.....

It's a great idea. I just don't like the look of the thing hanging out in the wind. Personally if I had thought of it I would have cut the thing a little shorter. Even on the Schrader cap. I think he mentioned using epoxy...