revpat

I just bought a pair of used debaffled S&S 4" slip on exhaust for my '07 RSTD. I haven't put them on yet but am a little concerned about them not having a baffle (for backpressure), thought they do have fiberglass wrapping inside. My question is how do you think this will affect performance? Will I have to rejet the carbs? I should add I have installed K&N air filters as well. The bike is somewhat new to me and currently has Harley Ultra pipes on it and I am looking for a little more volume. Any input would be appreciate or a link to another thread if this has been discussed elsewhere.

flashing module https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/strobe-controllers/brake-light-strobe-module/195/845/?utm_campaign=Child+-+Organic+Shopping&utm_source=Vehicle+Lighting+>+LED+Strobe+Controllers&utm_medium=LSC-100A&gclid=CjwKCAjwoc_8BRAcEiwAzJevtUliVisyn82B7m92X3MnmSfcc-7IuMGF1dkJe6zZPPZUoxZx1XJcEBoC4XEQAvD_BwE

oh yeah, and i was going to add a flashing module for rear led brake, $5

Yeah M61A1MECH, I'm just looking at alternate ways to increase my running rear visibility at night and brake light during the day. My current rear brake light is an led panel and the rear blinkers are stock I believe. I just bought a dual intensity light/license frame with three wires i am going to add. I also was thinking about adding some cheap dual intensity leds for the bottomof the bags and having them wires as running brake lights too. That would give me 4 separate lights for run and brake and leave the blinkers for turn but replace with red bulbs of course if they were run/brake. I know, pretty jacked up i guess. Your thoughts? And how much for that harness?

I know I can get a run-brake-turn module for around $100 but would it work to add some led dual intensity lights on the bottom of my bags and wire into my brake assembly to act as running lights and brake lights along with main light. My brake assembly is already led.

Thanks for the input. I didn't mention but I have an Ultimate seat and even though it says on their web site same height as stock I know it kicks me back in the seat and makes it a little harder to put down at a stop. So I don't really want to modify the seat. Does anyone have a link to details instructions or video on lowering the front forks for free?

Yep, after reading other posts I was going to try and lower just the front. Many seem to say this helps with low speed handling. I may end up lowering the rear as well I just wanted to start with a cheaper option (free/$25 vs $200). Thanks for your input cowpuc.

I'm considering lowering my front forks on my 2007 RSTD for better footing when stopped. I'd like to get as much as I can without adversely affecting the handling. Question: How is the Baron's lowering kit different than lowering for free without the kit? Seems the kit will go 1.5 inches vs less than an inch without the kit. Is the process similar? I notice Baron's says you must "trim the spacer 1.5 inches" during the install. I weigh 180 and always ride solo (wife won't ride) so I could possibly remove the air valves if need be. Thanks for any tips and thoughts!

Ok, thanks I'll check that tomorrow. How exactly do you do that? I also believe it is overfilled with oil as when completely upright the oil overs the entire peep hole.

So last year I bought a used 1996 Royal Star Tour Classic which I have enjoyed but recently saw an ad for a 2007 Royal Star Tour Deluxe. I traveled to see it and ended up buying it. My question is why do they seem like totally different bikes? weight, size, seat height (has Ultimate seat), handling, even engine power. The '07 has Harley slip-ons but it's not really very loud. However, there doesn't seem to be near as much power from the '07 as my '96. What's up with that? I read the '07 has more HP but it doesn't feel that way, especially low rpm torgue. I'm wondering if those slip-ons have changed the power band and it now has less torque. I realize the '07 weighs more too. Also, there is a lot of vibration in the grips. It does have upgraded grips (not sure what brand) so I'm wondering if it doesn't have the weighted ends now. I know that would make a difference. It's a beautiful bike (red/black) and I love the removable shield and cruise control but I'm only 5'8" and it seems a little harder to maneuver at stops and slow speeds. Any thoughts on all this?

Wanted to get a louder (but quality) sound from my stock '96 Royal Star Tour Custom 4 into 4 exhaust pipes. I've drilled into the back plates before on a Kawasaki Nomad and liked the results but wasn't sure on this bike and would like a sound sample if possible or someone's take who had done it. Anyone done this on the 4 into 4 pipes?

Thanks, maybe someone with a similar bike could post a close up photo of the blinker/passing light assembly.

Another How To question. I bought a '96 RS Tour Classic which had been previously wrecked and the front blinkers are slightly different. I'm also wanting to add some passing/aux lights up front as well. I've included pics below. I can't quite figure out how to relocate the blinkers and add the lights to the existing bar. Perhaps a close up of a factory setup would help. Look like I need some cylinders or spacers between the lamps and blinkers. I think one of the blinkers is off a different bike. I'm not opposed to buying an aftermarket set of blinkers as well, but I'm generally a cheapie! LOL. Any ideas?

Here is the slotted filler cap of some kind on the right side behind the oil filler cap. Thanks for the info on the oil. I did check the oil level and it seems right in the middle of the window.

Hey, I got the new hose and fluids for the clutch installed and the forward bevel gear cover back on with gasket but I'm confused as to which oil came out from that assembly? Is that the motor oil or the final gear oil that is added at the rear differential? Also, what is the slotted filler plug on the right side right behind the regular oil filler cap? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for all the help. Hopefully I can fix this soon, rain this weekend but it's pretty nice riding weather here in S. Georgia.

Thank you, I think it's the same, I'll contact Earl to get his take too.

Thanks cowpuc, is the "slave" you mentioned the part on the handlebar or a part hidden behind the engine? I have a Clymer Manual and pdf of the service manual. I think I see what you are talking about. It looks like getting to it I have to remove the gear case cover. I'll look into a little deeper. I may end up carrying to my local bike shop, I don't have a Yamaha dealer nearby.

I've have a 1996 RSTC which has developed a clutch fluid leak after overheating on a city/parade type ride. It's not a quick leak but does leave a fluid spot on the driveway and my clutch won't work. I noticed underneath a spot where it appears to be leaking beneath the engine but doesn't seem to be coming from the pump connection (It's kind of hard to tell without disassembling everything.) There is a torn spot in the rubber casing around the pipe line. First... 1. What is the most likely place of the leak or how to find that? 2. What is the easiest or best way to replace the hose (I noticed the oem hose is in several sections) and will a one piece SS replacement work and where to get? Thanks and hope to hear some encouraging news. revpat Update: I noticed that Galfer makes a replacment hose.

SOLVED: Turns out I wired the module in wrong to begin with. When I used it today it was obviously not working properly so I went back in and realize I didn't wire it the right way to begin with. Sorry for the post!

Tech wiring question: I just bought a used Kriss headlight modulator and it modulates on low beam. I'd like to switch this to high beam but not sure how, especially since one end is plug and play on the bulb. Anyone know?

Thanks for the input guys. I ended up buying a used complete caliper off ebay and installed it and finally got it filled with fluid today. Pretty big deal and I'm not sure the calipers are the problem as the brake handle itself still sticks. So now I'm off to figure that one out.

I'm looking to replace my worn grips on my '96 Royal Star with grips in better shape. Stock would be okay or ones that help with vibration or have good rubber. They have the two cable throttle grip. Obviously I could get new ones for $$ or knock-offs for less but wanted to try here first. Let me know what you got.

I just bought a used '96 Royal Star Tour and the front brake was messed up and I messed it up further trying to fix it :-( Does anyone have either one or a set of front brake calipers (everything but the disk) for reasonable? Thanks!

I just bought a '96 RSTD and only had a short ride home and noticed the front brake was weak/grabby. It was really hard to squeeze with little braking and then it catches and grabs. Not sure what is causing this. I took the right brake off and found one of the pistons (or whatever they are called) stuck. I got it unstuck but had to separate the two sides to get them pressed back in. In doing so I think I lost a tiny o-ring where the fluid flows between the sides. So here's my question: 1) It there suppose to be an o-ring on both holes? 2) If so, does anyone know where to find a part number or where to get one? I'll include a pic. Thanks for any input. Revpat