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Everything posted by Ponch
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Yup, I agree on dining accommodations in Marathon. The first night we stayed there (Marathon Motel), we ate in a new Bar that served a few selections from a limited menu that was a little over priced. We were going to try the Gage Hotel Restaurant, but after seating us and seeing the first item on the menu was $42.00, we passed. The rest of our meals in Marathon were at Johnny's cafe. Very good breakfast and reasonably priced. They served mostly burgers and Diner food, but it was good. We ate from the local Grocery store once which had prepared sandwiches. One night we ordered a pizza from the Motel. It was a frozen pizza that the clerk cooked in the office oven, but given our choices, not bad. Next time we plan to stay in Alpine as we want to do the Davis mountains and observatory as well as the Park. We would also consider staying inside the park at the Chisos Basin Motel. There's a restaurant there too. I don't know about prices there. Thanks for the updates Goose, Ponch
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removed cassette, added gauges......done
Ponch replied to jlh3rd's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
If you're installing the ammeter in the main circuit, you might want to solder. The entire electrical load of the bike goes through those connections. I'm afraid that over time and with the vibration involved, a screw type conection will not survive as well. With solder, the entire connection is solid. With a clamp, it is probably not as solid. What I do with crimp on connections is: Solder the wire first, slide on the terminal, crimp the terminal end onto the wire (minus the insulation) and then solder the joint. Works pretty well. Ponch -
removed cassette, added gauges......done
Ponch replied to jlh3rd's topic in Computer, Lights, Horns, Other Electrical
If you're installing the ammeter in the main circuit, you might want to solder. The entire electrical load of the bike goes through those connections. I'm afraid that over time and with the vibration involved, a screw type conection will not survive as well. With solder, the entire connection is solid. With a clamp, it is probably not as solid. What I do with crimp on connections is: Solder the wire first, slide on the terminal, crimp the terminal end onto the wire (minus the insulation) and then solder the joint. Works pretty well. Ponch -
Just a cheap camera. Wesley's Whitewall bleach and cleaner.
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We're anxious to hear about it and see some more pics.
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Rent a Truck vs. RSV? No brainer. If ya get close to Texas, gives a shout.
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I like my WWW's.
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Don't ya love the response you get from some parts guys? I had this happen at the auto parts store too. "Could not find the part # on any of them - just showed the seal at the opposite end of the drive shaft. Even went to the Yamaha Dealer and their fiche showed the same thing. They said that the seal for the pumpkin end is at a higher level of assembly and would be included with buying a new drive shaft! I walked out and ordered the seal on line." ...as far as the part # goes, when I open the Parts manual downloaded from the VR.org site, and go to the second page of the Drive Shaft section, it shows item #33 and the part number. I hope this helps.
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Do you know about the manuals and other literature you can download from this board? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=91 They are very helpful.
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I called thirteen dealers in the Houston vicinity and had to pay extra for speedy delivery. I was going to Ft. Worth that Friday. I ordered Tuesday am and got it Thursday. Most of the parts guys I talked to said they had never ordered one before. You know how that goes though. Ponch
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Don (Nelson), It was my own fault in my case. I was just being nosey when I had the drive shaft out and wanted to see what was in there. The final drive input shaft was being stubborn and I somehow tore it manhandling it. I chock it up to experience and am glad I was able to repair it and take some photos for others to use. Eck told me once. TAKE PICS, SOMEONE WILL ASK! BTW, I am certainly no expert on Venture repair and look forward to challenges from those who are. Thanks guys for helping us all do our own work. There are excellent articles on this board. Ponch
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I don't have my receipt in front of me, but looking at the parts manual, the number is 93108-23007-00. I think it was about $12.00. Ponch
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Squeeze, I struggled with the direction of the "U", but I put it back excactly the way it came off and to me, it looks like its on the same way as the illustration of the seal in the manual. So far, its not leaking and all is well. I put about 500 miles on it since the repair.
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I pulled the input shaft out of the final drive and placed it in a vice. I used a screwdriver to nudge the seal down (a little bit on each side) until I was able to use two screwdrivers to put equal pressure on each side of the seal at the same time. It then slid right off. When replacing the seal, I used gentle force on a the box end of a wrench to seat the seal back on the shaft. [ATTACH]27298[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27299[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27300[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27301[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27302[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27303[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27304[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27305[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27306[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27307[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27308[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]27309[/ATTACH]
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... when I pulled the shaft, there was clear final drive lube on the gear. It meshes with the ring gear which is bathed in lube. My understanding of the "clicking" problem is that it is the drive pins that attach the drive to the wheel being dry that causes the noise. There is an excellent write up about how to lube this, but it really is quite simple. Pull the wheel, remove the lock ring off the splined hub attached to the wheel center, slide the hub off, clean rust and/or gunk off the pins, lube and reinstall.
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1. I recently tore a seal on my final drive (due to my own ignorance). I was trying to see what the inside of the final drive at the pinion looked like while I had the shaft out. Anyway, I didn't notice it the time, but about a week later I had a pretty nasty leak. I pulled the input shaft out of the final drive and placed it in a vice. I used a screwdriver to nudge the seal down (a little bit on each side) until I was able to use two screwdrivers to put equal pressure on each side of the seal at the same time. It then slid right off. When replacing the seal, I used gentle force on a the box end of a wrench to seat the seal back on the shaft. It really wasn't much to it. 2. Don't grease the gear end of the shaft. It is bathed in final drive lube. 3. If you're paying someone to mount and balance your tires, take them the entire wheel assembly (rotors attached). I think that the chance of the rotors being out of balance is miniscule, but the assembly should be balanced with rotors attached. If you reattach the rotors yourself, be sure to torque them properly. And be sure to torque all fasteners in reassembly. I have some photos to post later of the seal removal/ reinstall. Ponch
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Can't wait to see it. Ponch
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removed cassette, added gauges......done
Ponch replied to jlh3rd's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I haven't seen this much positive response to a tech (or any other) thread in a while. Thanks to Goose for planting the seed and Jlh3rd for hitting the ground running. I know many are going to pursue this installation. Has anyone been able to find an 1 1/2" ammeter for sale by itself? I've seen them in a 3 gauge set, but I already bought a set that didn't have the ammeter so I just need the ammeter. I am thinking about adding the Dakota Digital tach in this cluster ($159.00 ). [ATTACH]27185[/ATTACH] Thanks, Ponch -
removed cassette, added gauges......done
Ponch replied to jlh3rd's topic in Computer, Lights, Horns, Other Electrical
I haven't seen this much positive response to a tech (or any other) thread in a while. Thanks to Goose for planting the seed and Jlh3rd for hitting the ground running. I know many are going to pursue this installation. Has anyone been able to find an 1 1/2" ammeter for sale by itself? I've seen them in a 3 gauge set, but I already bought a set that didn't have the ammeter so I just need the ammeter. I am thinking about adding the Dakota Digital tach in this cluster ($159.00 ). [attach]28241[/attach] Thanks, Ponch -
:BLUE: Click on the Forums button above and scroll down to technical Library. You'll see a link to First Gen Tech Library, then Guides, Parts and Diagrams. There are links to a service manual and parts diagrgams. Didn't see an Owner's Manual though. Or go here. Ponch
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I'll look into it. Ponch
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You are just now recuperating from the Pneumonia. Don't want you to relapse. Take care, both of you. Ponch
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I got one in Big Bend. I'm an amputee. I didn't give them a letter or even show them my amputated foot. They said "here ya go" and gave me a lifetime pass. No sticker though. I haven't been able to find out much so far about obtaining a sticker. Not sure I need one???? Ponch
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Here's a couple that are pretty good. http://www.estherscajunseafood.com/ in Port Arthur, TX. be sure to cross that monster bridge. Its a hoot on two wheels! http://www.catfishcabin.com/ There are two Catfish Cabins that I frequent. The one in Lumberton is excellent. Their Gumbo is marvelous. The other is in Jasper. Its pretty good too. http://www.catfishhut.com/ in De Ridder, LA
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I emailed a friend who is possibly in the market. His 1500 GW just turned 100K. Take care of yourself. Ponch