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jdross440

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Everything posted by jdross440

  1. jdross440
    After the bike heats up the voltage drops to around 11.5. Sometimes down as low as 10.5 when the fan kicks on, even with rpm at 2500-3000. This is measured with a good digital voltmeter. Our outside temp is running in the high 90's to low 100's so the bike heats up pretty fast, especially if I have to stop for a minute. The battery is a deka battery 1 year old the first of July.
  2. jdross440
    Adding water and driving about 15 miles did not help. When I get back from vacation I will pull the battery and have it load tested to see if it's the battery or charging system. It has a new stator and regulator (from Sky_doc17). Voltage is good (13.5) until the bike heats up.
  3. jdross440
    I have one of these in my 90. It is 2 weeks past a year old (1 year warranty) and now when it gets hot, the voltage drops to 10 volts like it has a cell shorting. When it was new it cranked like crazy. I have the later starter from a Vmaxx and upsized wiring. I did pull the label off and pryed the "sealed" caps off last night and there was no water/acid showing at all. I filled it with distilled water and now we will see what happens.
  4. jdross440
    I mounted mine on the bottom of the trunk. Routed the wires along the frame beneath the seat and spliced them into the stator and system wires.
  5. jdross440
    What's the HF item number for the Tag along trailer?
  6. jdross440
    Here's how my MKII goes on: After putting your bike onto the center stand, you will need to remove both the left and right saddlebags. Next remove the plastic cover just under the rear of the seat. This is held on with two phillips screws. You will need to remove the bolt where the seat frame, main frame and saddle bag chrome guards all attach. The long bars attach to the bike at this point. You will need to slightly pry apart where the main and seat frames come together, then slip the flat part of the long bar between. The long bars will then be parallel to the mufflers, with the curved part angled inwards. The short bar attaches to the bolt just under the seat, and to the very front hole of the long bar. The medium bar attaches at a 45 degree angle to the third hole back, and then to the under seat bolt.
  7. jdross440
    Here are some pictures of where I mounted the R/R and how I routed the wires.
  8. jdross440
    I had a can of Graffiti remover that softened mine and it peeled off easily. I have used the gasket remover spray before and it does work good but couldn't find mine this time.
  9. jdross440
    I pulled the seat when I got home. Plugged in the headset and turned the key on. Had lots of squealing. I wiggled the 5 pin connector under the seat and the noise went away and the music came on. I wiggled again and got the squeal. I unplugged it, plugged it back in until it seemed to click into place. Works good now. I had put some dielectric grease in it and apparently it was too much and didn't allow it to seat properly. All is well in passengerville now. My wife is happy again. Now I have to replace one of the speaker in my helmet so I will get stereo again.
  10. jdross440
    I will pull the seat this weekend and check all the wires and grounds. I unplugged the 5 pin connector when I pulled the trunk off to mount the R/R. That connection and the light connector are the only ones I remember back there. The noise is like a really fast oscillating circuit/clipping circuit.
  11. jdross440
    I guess no one has a suggestion. This weekend I'll pull the seat and pull the wiring out and unbolt the R/R and lay it on the ground and see if the noise goes away. If so, then I will try to find another place to mount it and run the wiring away from any other wiring. Maybe route wiring in metal sleeving or tube. If I can find 14 gauge twisted shielded wire I will replace wiring from stator to R/R and ground the shield.
  12. jdross440
    Bought the stator/ R/R kit from skydoc. Got it installed. I relocated the R/R under the rear trunk. Now I have a high pitched loud squeal in the passenger audio system, running or not with the key in the run and acc position. Could running the wires along the frame next to the audio cable to the rear cause this? There is no noise in the driver audio headset.
  13. jdross440
    The previous owner sent me written on how it was mounted on his bike: After putting your bike onto the center stand, you will need to remove both the left and right saddlebags. Next remove the plastic cover just under the rear of the seat. This is held on with two phillips screws. You will need to remove the bolt where the seat frame, main frame and saddle bag chrome guards all attach. The long bars attach to the bike at this point. You will need to slightly pry apart where the main and seat frames come together, then slip the flat part of the long bar between. The long bars will then be parallel to the mufflers, with the curved part angled inwards. The short bar attaches to the bolt just under the seat, and to the very front hole of the long bar. The medium bar attaches at a 45 degree angle to the third hole back, and then to the under seat bolt.
  14. jdross440
    I contacted Drag Specialties. They said this size was discontinued many years ago and are no longer available. The newer ones are somewhat bigger and will not work. The Baron lights are the same way. I guess I'll just remove the lights and make a stainless steel block off plate.
  15. jdross440
    It's a commercially built hitch. You can see some of the holes are square and punched with a broach. The bends were done on a hydropress. On the back of the lights it has the manufacturer as Drag Specialties. The lens size is 1 3/4 wide, 1 5/16 high and hole spacing is 1 7/16. Each light assembly is 4 1/4 wide X 1 5/8 high. All the ones I see on the websites are bigger than this.
  16. jdross440
    Does anyone recognize what brand this hitch may be? Anyone know where I might find a replacement lens for the flap light and some install instructions? It came off a 88 VR and I am installing on my 90 VR. These pictures were taken by the previous owner.
  17. jdross440
    Do you need to replace all the parts listed ( reason I ask is that all I ordered was seals for my 1990)? I have 58K miles on mine and one seal is starting to leak after setting all winter. Also, how do you bleed the pressure off the forks?
  18. jdross440
    Found out that when the bike gets warm from sitting stopped, the fan is coming on (I should have know that as I can hear it-has the Muzzie blade) and the extra current draw is more than the stator can handle. That's why the brake lights drop the voltage dramatically too. Looks like a new stator and R/R are in order. I have emailed Skydoc_17 to see if he has them available, or how long it will take him to get them. I may try my spare R/R tomorrow and see if that makes any difference (which I doubt), until I hear back from Skydoc_17.
  19. jdross440
    The stator wires are spliced direct to the RR. I have another used RR but didn't want to cut the wires again if I don't have too as they will start getting too short from the stator to splice. I guess for a test I could use some "wire nuts" on those wires or just solder them. I'll have more time Saturday to do more testing. I have the original stator that is good (I wanted more output for my driving light) I may install and see what happens. It's definately temperature related. This morning on the way to work, voltage stayed around 14 until I stopped and let the temperature come up (normally runs with temp needle straight across) to where temp was showing between midpoint and red. Voltage went down and stayed down until I drove far enough for the temp to drop back to normal then voltage came back up.
  20. jdross440
    I just did the tests. At idle: between one pair 15.8 V AC, second pair 6.9 V, third 8.1 V. At 3K 16.5, 7.4 and 7.9 respective. When going to work this morning (20 miles mostly freeway) it was 55 degrees. At approx 3k rpm I had 14.v but I noticed when I turned on the turn signal it would drop to 13.25 and if I touch the brake it would drop to 12.9 or lower. At idle it was showing 13.2. After I stopped and let my wife off, the voltage ran 12.5 until it cooled down some. Coming home (85 degrees) it ran 13.9 V until I stopped in traffic for 5 minutes and everything heated up then dropped to below 11.5 at idle and 12.5 at 3k and didn't come back even after cooling.
  21. jdross440
    The Rivco adapter uses a filter that fits several vehicles. The easiest to remember is a 1985 Chevrolet S10 with the 1.9L engine. Purolator PL10193 and L10193, Mobil 1 M1-105, Fram Motorcycle filter PH6017A. I use the Purolator L10193 ($3.99 at Advance Auto Parts). When I installed my adapter I thought I had it tight but it leaked a little. When I just changed my oil and filter I got my torque wrench and tightened it to 23 ft lbs (almost a full round from where I had it)-29 or 30 mm socket. This is the torque per repair manual for stock oil filter bolt.
  22. jdross440
    On the way home this afternoon, the voltage was running 13.64 volts until I got off the freeway and had to stop. It went down to between 11.8 and 12.2 (depended on whether I had brake on). When I sped back up to a steady 3000 rpm it only went up to 12.25 to 12.3 volts. Sure is strange. Sounds like the stator, as it heats up as engine temp comes up while stopped, it's failing or the regulator is failing due to temp. It just started all this after I washed it, which may be a coincidence. I am going to drive it this way as long as it will go until at least until after April tax payment (and then probably order from Sky_doc if the stator/regulator prove to be the problem) . Any further suggestions would be appreciated.
  23. jdross440
    I plugged in my digital voltmeter this morning. On the road at 65 mph it was reading 13.75 volts. At idle it would drop to 12.05 to 12.3. At 2000 rpm it would come up to around 12.9. I'm not sure what's going on. I have deleted the connector between stator and regulator (they were in good shape but deleted just in case). I'm not going to buy and replace anything until I figure out what's going on and what is really causing my problem. I had pressue washed the bike to get all the oil off from valve cover and oil filter leaks and may have gotten something wet. I dried the stator and regulator connectors afterwards but could have been a connector higher up in the system. I did disconnect the connectors for the anti-dive. Amazing the difference in current draw with brake applied.
  24. jdross440
    Thanks for the replies. I am on a limited budget right now, especially since uncle sam is soon asking for more than his share. I will probably go with the Rick's stator at $160.
  25. jdross440
    What is the opinion on the best high output stator, the one Rick's sells or the one Buckeye sells? I have one made by Electrosports that has a winding dead. I've never been happy with it. Can the relay be removed from the anti-dive system and disable it without blocking it off?
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