jdross440

Has new clutch, new clutch slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder just rebuilt. Everything works except cassette player (it tries but belt slips). Air ride, cruise, CB. Tires 2 years old, battery 1 year. Brake pads 1 year. Oil filter converted to spin on several years ago. Runs and rides good. Has salvage title. Had it when I bought it 19 years ago. I was told reason was it had been stolen when new in Indiana. Was then recovered with vin ground off and state issued vin assigned. No trades, no payments. If it's listed, it's available. I will not answer "is it available".

Only setting 2 months. It has set longer than this many times. When I relieve the pressure (either at banjo bolt or bleeder) it releases until I use the brake several times. Each time I use the brake I notice the pedal doesn't depress as far until it doesn't move. The left front isn't locking up.

Thank you Skydoc_17. Where is the proportioning valve located? I would like to spend some time looking thru the system to see what started this lockup and then replace they system. Like you said the original system is old. I do change the fluid about every 2 years. The brakes were working very good until it sat about 2 months then this happened. This bike only has 76K miles. I bought it in 2005 with 13K miles. Being in Arkansas, Summer heat slows riding down a lot.

Maybe available at this link: https://vtcportal.com/home/45-single-carb-conversion-kit-for-xvz1300.html

I would like to do this on my 1990 but the data says thru 1989.

My rear brakes have recently started locking up. It first happened on a recent short ride (15 miles). I noticed a brake smell and noticed it was taking more throttle. Also the brake peddle had almost no movement. When I pulled into a station they were almost totally locked and smoking. I loosened the banjo bolt at the caliper and relieved the pressure and the brake released. There was quite a bit of pressure. The rotor was very hot of course. I headed back home and by the time I got home it was locking again. I did the same bleed to release the pressure. I used my infrared temp gun and the rotor was well over 240 degrees. the left front brake isn't having a problem (it is working as I jacked up front wheel and checked that it is working) and not getting hot. I took the line off the master cylinder and ran a small wire (bread tie) in the return hole. It appeared clean and clear. I noticed my rear pads were somewhat thin so I changed them and put it all back together and bled rear, front left and the tree location. I actually bled the tree location after the rear at first. When I opened that bleeder nothing came out so I took bleeder completely out and brake pedal was hard so I pushed hard and something white finally blew out and then fluid came out. Then I closed it up and bled rear again, then left front and tree. Pedal felt good. I took it for a ride and in about 8 miles it started getting hot and rear locking up again. I am at a loss for ideas since caliper will release when line or bleeder is opened.

I happened to look at my rear tire this morning while getting the size off it. Luckily I had stopped where I did. The tire tread is cracking and I could pull down a little on it and see the cord under it. This is a 6 year old Kenda Kruz K673 with about 10K miles. The last one of these I had about 7K miles and a big chunk of center tread came off while me and my wife were out riding. Didn't notice it until we got home and happened to stop with that missing patch showing from the rear. We had ridden about 200 miles. I always park it in my carport with the tires sitting on carpet. I'm not sure I want to try another one of these. I like the ride and tread pattern better than many others that don't seem to have enough tread.

I found it. Buried beneath the other box forward of the battery covered with some wiring.

Where is the second fuse box that holds the Hazard fuse? I found the one on top of the battery, but it only has 5 fuses. I need to find the other fuses.

Does anyone know the part number for the bulbs in the cruise control panel? This is for my 1990.

Yes. Using the negative battery terminal. I get the same readings if I use the negative terminal on the fuse strip. It's the difference between positive battery terminal and the positive terminal on the fuse strip. Also the same readings if tested using the inputs to each fuse.

With a digital volt meter I am showing 13.8 volts at battery (engine running at idle and above) but only 12.4 volts at each fuse input including the Auxiliary terminal. The onboard voltmeter reads even less. I had wired in a digital volt gauge that agrees to what I am seeing at the fuses. It goes as low as 11.3 volts. I had replaced my stator and rectifier and wired the rectifier output directly to the battery. Could the voltage drop be caused by the key switch? Anyone else have this problem and found a solution. I would like for the fuse block and components downstream to see the real voltage available.

Is there a way to connect the antenna directly to the radio as I don't use the CB and I have short distance reception on radio even when DX is activated? Is there a better antenna for this purpose?

What quality are the KG Powersports clutch discs (KG114-8 154-2047)? If not good, what is a good quality brand and a decent price as I am on a limited budget?

The new plugs got rid of the ignition noise in my headset. I haven’t gotten to ride further than 5 miles yet. Prob tomorrow. I used ngk 4929 resistor plugs. Old plugs had about 20k miles on them.