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Rocket

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Everything posted by Rocket

  1. Another variant of this method I have used, is drill a short, lightly smaller hole than a T15 torx bit. Tapped the torx bit in, put the handle on & lightly tapped the handle, with a hammer, while twisting it. No vise grips & no contamination.
  2. These might do the trick http://www.bakerbuilt.com/yamaha.htm
  3. Put the bike on the centre stand, to see the level, it should be about halfway between the marks on the casing, at the edge of the window. It is located on the lower engine casing, below the water pump. No need, the 1st gens have centre stands, as a stock component.
  4. Can't really tell, as the pics are too dark, bike should have been outside. As for the trunk speakers, some one had added them in. You may have to get one made up, as not a lot of aftermarket is still made for these bikes.
  5. A 1&3/16 socket is sometimes easier to find, is a good fit too. I got a 6 point one for that & clutch basket nut.
  6. Another possibility is to re-sleeve the engine, I have seen them on ebay a few weeks ago, under a different search. As the company that makes the big bore kits, made the sleeves.
  7. Yup, there is a change over happening, at the moment. In a couple of cases this did not cure it, but it helps in most cases. Also previously, there had been some discussion, of removing the lower front cover below the radiator, to allow more airflow to the starter. This could be done as a test, to see if your starter is getting too hot, from normal engine running.
  8. 10 MM allen key socket on my 83, George.
  9. Probably they are not even getting the correct one. There is a copper gasket (or should be) at the allen head bolt, threading up into the damper rod, from the lower tube (just above axle shaft). 2 O-rings, for the anti dive unit, another gasket for the drain screw. This is per each fork leg, on the bottom end. Are they are doing more than just cleaning it up? Sounds like that is all they are doing. Any signs of leakage from the upper seal, it may be hard to spot if the oil is clean & a slower leak. Refer to this thread for more info, to go over it yourselves http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=496
  10. Yup, a 2nd gen thing.:bang head: Our rear & left front brakes are linked.
  11. You could go with a inch pounds torque wrench for the light stuff. Just take the ft pound readings X by 12 to convert to inch pounds. But many of us just make sure the item is snug without, using a torque wrench if below the scale.
  12. I think all the stock rotors are solid. Looks like EBC makes floaters for the 1st gens, as I have been looking into them for later on. Sometimes hard to tell as pic shows a floater, sometime write up doesn't mention it being one. He had gotten an rotor from MAW, probably an EBC replacement, wanted to point him to the Squeeze's info on rotors. As he seems to be a great source of tech info, his knowledge is greater than mine.
  13. Sounds like the rotor is a full floater. Check out this thread, read Squeeze's reply. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6670
  14. Yup, but there are changes to be made though. The anti dive is electric, not hydraulic & the brake pads, calipers & rotors are different as well. Some install this setup to get an brake upgrade.
  15. Most likely, clean the steel plates & put in the spring conversion kit. I have replaced the springs in my 83 & that solved the occasional slippage in 4th & 5th. The 1300 engines have a diaphragm pressure plate, which is swapped out in this conversion.
  16. This is the conversion for the 1300 http://www.barnettclutches.com/products/spring_conversions.aspx?cat_id=6&prod_id=36 They have a dealer locater near the top of the page.
  17. It was previously suspected last year, I just confirmed it this week. See my gallery Pics, for a better idea of the damage done. The left side fork seal started to leak recently, I pulled the tube to change it. The 1 1/2" X2' ABS tube that I use as a seal driver, was rubbing on part of the fork tube, just below where the bottom triple tree clamps the tube. With the slight bend it had shortened my wheelbase a bit, but otherwise all seemed normal.
  18. Recently found out my fork tubes are slightly bent, from last years deer impact. So I am ordering a set of Franks Forks, as replacements $245 pair Vs $198 each from yamaha (best price found). I am changing out all the fork bushings too. Yamaha doesn't list the upper tube bushing separately from the fork tube itself & after some searching I found racetech.com does have the bushings listed.
  19. Another possible option, see this link http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1063
  20. Here is a listing of the various J & M cords, need to know which series you need. http://www.sierra-mc.com/categories.asp?cat=29
  21. The early 1st gens, indeed have high reading guages, due to calibration issues. Actually, the temps are lower outside the city, as the bike is getting air, not sitting waiting for traffic lights & other traffic to move. Normally the fan only comes on when stuck in traffic.
  22. Here is the likely fix to your problems, as the E4 is common. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=493
  23. Sorry, that search link had expired, try the Search & use YV-41as search terms,for more threads. Here is one of the threads that would have come up. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2606 Here is the link for buying the cables http://www.sierra-mc.com/proddetail.asp?prod=JM%2DYV%2D41
  24. From the manual E2: Air pressure does not rise when the air compressor is operated.. Look for leaky pipe, clogged compressor suction port (intake air filter), or dryer clogged. There is one other possibility, to change the compressor.
  25. Nope, they were options. I had to search for the interface kit info last year, have been passing it on as others ask, to add intercom to their bikes.
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