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Rocket

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Everything posted by Rocket

  1. Rocket
    Why not keep them for winter pipes, just in case global warming kicks in & you can get out on the scoot. I know you are on the wrong coast, to do that on a normal basis, like I normally do. :stirthepot:
  2. Rocket
    From my initial impression on reading this post: I think you have a busted weld holding your exhaust baffle in place. It is not a must do right now, but the sound may get on your nerves. There are instructions here, on the repair. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1002
  3. Rocket
    Possibly air in the line, between the steering neck & the left anti-dive. This can be a PITA to bleed as there is no bleeder at the high point at the steering neck, on these early 1st gens. Another thing can be a seized left front caliper.
  4. Rocket
    I am getting ready to do this myself this winter too, as it will be parked for an extended period, what a change. Winter in Wainwright, no riding for months, due to snow. That is like torture to me........... :bawling:
  5. Rocket
    I do this to make sure that both the fork tubes are sitting at the same height in the clamps, for alignment purposes. Remember there is not, a lot of torque on the bolts after tightening. Sometimes the rear tire will briefly, barely make contact with the ground, during the rocking motion. Hopefully, this will clear things up for you.
  6. Rocket
    I think this notch is to protect the feeder(supply) air line to the forks. The o-rings normally don't get damaged, but can be dry or have dirt in there affecting the seal. I normally clean any crud out of the collars, grease the o-rings, to assist with getting a good seal. After everything is tightened up on the forks except the triple tree bolts (still a little loose), front wheel is mounted to the forks & on the ground. I normally climb on the bike, while it is on the center stand, stand on the footpegs & gently rock my weight back & forth a few times. This helps get the air collars & top triple tree seated evenly on those circlips, before torquing down the fork tube retention bolts. Of course, there is whatever else removed, to be re-installed, before going anywhere.
  7. Rocket
    Drop each fork tube down from top triple tree (enough for these parts to clear), remove spacer, circlip & air collar. Install circlip first & put into groove, slide air collar down the tube to the circlip, re-install rubber spacer, push fork tube back up into place. Note: On the 83 there is an alignment notch built into the right side air collar, engaging a protrusion on the top triple tree. I am not sure on the later years though, if that is still present or not.
  8. Rocket
    Pull the outer cover on yours first, before ordering parts, to see if it is the plastic impeller or metal one. If plastic impeller, replace it too, as they tend to crack near the shaft & you won't see it until pulled out of the housing. I had replaced all seals, the bearing, impeller assy & of course the gasket on mine early this year. Of course, you know to check Flatout for the stuff needed. These are easy enough to re-build, just don't rush it & pay attention to what goes where.
  9. Rocket
    Right now I am in CFB Wainwright, Alberta, changed out the upper tubes & bushings, last weekend. I took out a deer last year with the bike & suspected bent forks, I confirmed it last month. The bolt & nut (I use as an adapter) goes between the socket & head of the damper rod. Allowing the damper rod to stay still when tightening the bottom allen head bolt on reassembly.
  10. Rocket
    For re-assembly, I use a 15/16 bolt & nut (to hold the rod to a socket) on the top of the damper rod, as I use a ratchet on the bottom end bolt. For tear down, I use the 10MM allen head socket & air impact to remove the bottom bolt, with nothing up at top end of rod. I get to change out both my upper tubes soon & new bushings too.
  11. Rocket
    I will jump in & say you got that right...............
  12. Rocket
    Actually there is an allen head bolt with copper seal that passes thru the axle hole when being installed or removed from the lower fork legs. It connects the damper rod to the fork legs, holding everything together. There is no oil seals on the axle itself.
  13. Rocket
    What I suspect is the shift pin retainer has bent an ear, allowing a pin to slide out of place. Normally this happens with the 1st gens, but unless there has been changes in this setup for the 2nd gens (which I doubt), it is entirely possible. Here is a pic that shows the assy in a 1st gen, lower engine case, some of it is normally behind the clutch basket. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1760&d=1157991625 This is only a possibility, is up to the shop to determine for sure & repair. As it is a warranty issue.
  14. Rocket
    I have been using a set of these for a year now, with no problems at all.
  15. Rocket
    No need to, as there is others here that can expand on what you write. To help some of our technically challenged members, understand what is written, if needed.
  16. Rocket
    Agreed, the dealer used up to now, has already proved its value. It is of no value, to this bikes owner.
  17. Rocket
    I have pulled some of mine apart, not because I found a problem. But to prevent one in the future, as in my preventative on the 2nd gear fix & u joint replacement (while engine was out), earlier this year. Much of the bikes history was unknown to me, I want it in top mechanical shape, before fixing the remaining body issues. Some people do not like to tinker with older bikes, but I do. I also ride it a lot too, will be riding it to Eastern Alberta again next week. *Note to self* Do not kill another deer with bike - too painful & expensive.
  18. Rocket
    Nope, open clutch cover only, may need to pull clutch basket to get access to the star washer & pins. Oh they may need to pull oil pan too, if one of the pins is missing. It would probably be at the oil pickup screen.
  19. Rocket
    If it's a similar problem to the 1st gens, you lost a shift pin in the clutch housing. It is a easy fix. But if it is still under warranty, let the dealer fix it, as it should be covered.
  20. Rocket
    Defiantly something wrong there, all right.......:rotf:
  21. Rocket
    That is normal for this place.........
  22. Rocket
    With the brakes, if you only have front only. You only have the right front braking, as the left front & rear are linked. Try bleeding first, it helps to have speed bleeders in place of the normal bleeder fittings. As there is not a bleeder fitting at the high point of the line, from the rear to the left front, by the steering neck. For fuel treatments, try using seafoam, it seems to work good & is a favorite here. With the transmission, the problem was caused by soft thrust washers, on a transmission shaft. This problem was fixed on the production line partway during the 85 model run. There are members, that has not dug into the transmission to fix it, they just bypass 2nd gear. I think the only side effect is, the 2nd genners can keep up a little longer..........:stirthepot: If you use the search for this site, you can find more info on the seafoam & speed bleeders.
  23. Rocket
    Check your spark plugs, I think at least one is oil fouled. If it is the same as mine, probably the right rear one. This happens on mine if I have too much oil in it, the oil should be only halfway between the marks. The easiest way, to limit the amount of oil drained out, is by loosening the oil filter. Tighten it afterwards, start engine for a minute or two, shutdown & re-check oil level & for any leak at filter.
  24. Rocket
    There is another bolt that also would serve that function, is located next to the shift rod going through the lower engine case (not the left stator cover). I found it earlier this year, when the bottom end was apart. It could be a PITA to get at, as I haven't checked since putting the bike back together.
  25. Rocket
    Here is one link about it, you can use the search bar to find more threads mentioning it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9825
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