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Rocket

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Everything posted by Rocket

  1. Squeeze, a socket will work good, if the socket is reversed & the flat end is against the bearing & a board or a cheap extention (why risk damaging a good one), is used to hammer on. I have used this method many times.
  2. I've got it working too, had to adjust the mic senstivity, to the left (like turning down the squelch on a cb).
  3. Here is the link to their CDN site http://dynabeads.3dcartstores.com/
  4. I have also, not heard it, but I have seen it..........
  5. That is why I use a plastic turkey baster, with the squeeze bulb off & the bottom lip filed off. I thread it into the reservoir opening & fill it most of the way up the tube, for filling / flushing the rear brakes. This way I can do more between refills & can easily see the fluid level. Once the brakes are good, I will continue bleeding until, the baster tube is empty, then I remove it.
  6. To get the top cover off, you will need to pull the reservoir out. It is not a tough job... If the rear plastic head cover is still in place, lift it slightly to clear the valve cover bolts & slide it to the left side of the bike. This is needed for reservoir clearance, when pulling out & putting back in. Remove the rear attachment bolt for the sidecover support bar & pivot the support bar up out of the way. There is 1 bolt with a 10mm head, that mounts the solid brake line support clip & master cylinder reservoir, remove this bolt. The reservoir is now free, to be moved out for checking inside. Install in reverse order.
  7. Best price I have found for new mirrors, is at this site.... http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xvz12dn-1985_model9113/partslist/H-05.html But they are compairable with Flatout, on the other parts that I have looked up. http://flatoutmotorcycles.com/fiche_select2.asp?category=Motorcycles&make=Yamaha&year=1985&fveh=127
  8. Yup, a 2nd gen just can't keep up....................
  9. Don't think so.... Looks like Thom will need to choose another number, as Stanman had posted first. Better be quick, as it ends today..........
  10. Yup, with the exeption of the 83 side covers, as there is different bottom attachments & no opening for the fuel valve. There was no reserve position on the 83 fuel valve.... The Mk2 side covers also had vents on the side covers, where the Mk1 are open.
  11. I am just reading this thread for the first time, hopefully, you have it fixed by now......... The parts guy sold you the gaskets, that go into the exhaust ports of the engine heads. So these are the right gaskets for the bike, just the wrong location in the exhaust system & not what you needed. When ordering parts, look at the fiche yourself to try & ensure that the correct parts are being ordered. Or as I do most of the time, look it up on line, write down the part #s & qtys wanted. Then place the order with the dealer, if there is a screwup, it is mine.
  12. #1 S.S. Braided lines #2 Driving Lights #3 Steble Air Horn More to test out yet.
  13. I think Masterguns still has a good one for a Mk2, $75 + shipping. I got his Mk1 rear pumpkin, a little while ago.
  14. Swifty in a speedo........... Perish the thought........ Now that he has sourced one, I couldn't resist...........
  15. We get a discount there, Rick H is a member here.............
  16. Fitting the Clearview tonight???? Let me know on the clearance, for your "garage"......
  17. If it's flippping up, it is not securely fastened at the front end (maybe time for a new rubber mount). Mine is solidly hooked into the rubber mount in the front & under the front of the seat. There has been no bolt in there for more than 2 years & I have done runs up to 110 MPH. There has not been any slippage of it, out of position whenever I check it.
  18. Aside from the middle gear repair & a few other things checked over / adjusted. There was some upgrades done, while I had the bike here. 4 Guage battery cables Solid motor mounts Spin on oil filter adapter "Condor" fork brace installed Progressive fork springs S.S. Braided brake & clutch lines Barnett clutch springs "Squidleys" driving light brackets installed Steble air horn Driving lights
  19. You mean these ones.........
  20. I'm Ol' Headbanger of the Crazy Dawgs MC This is kinda suitable, after this winters bike work............. But it's done.
  21. The entire title suits you. After the grimey wet t shirt contest last year, working on the scoot, in a downpour............. :rotf:
  22. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6875 or as I do, use a bolt with a 15/16ths head & double nut it tight. Insert bolt head into the top of the dampner rod & use a 15/16ths socket with a few extentions with a ratchet or power bar to hold it still (1/2" drive). I use a 3/8" drive ratchet & allen head socket to tighten the allen bolt. Don't forget to use a little, thread locker on the allen bolt.
  23. Never had a mind, or just miss placed it????????????????? Looks like a drivel thread has just started.........:thumbsup2:
  24. From another thread......... BTW there was no mention of the Birthday, the day before, so Brian & I didn't know at that point. Scotty, your timing for showing up in the cage was perfect, as Friesman1 was delayed too (slept in & 6 hour drive). We had great eats, then to finishing work on Friesman1's scoot. We took the swing arm off, as it was not re-assembled correctly in California, after middle gear was blown. Then more fantastic eats, after Brian's initial test ride within the building. I had provided Scotty & Brian with VR Gremlin bells, after dinner.......... Yesterday, Brian rode the scoot outdoors in the Wainwright area, after a final rear brake bleeding. Then we finished up, on the re-assembly of mine. Last time I saw him last night, he was riding in the direction of Timmies & not the motel. Will be meeting up with him again this morning & he will be heading home this afternoon. There will be some pics, but Brian has them.
  25. I wouldn't do it. The only reason the impact is used at all on dis-assembly, is the damper rod is not being held still, at that time. It will need to be held still, on re-assembly due to the low torque settings.
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