StarRider07

I wish I could. We still have snow. Been melting the last couple days so very wet and still a lot of sand on the roads. My driveway and street out front is still snow/ice covered. I HATE WINTER!!!!

I am done with the clutch. Dumped the old oil, flushed it (for the hell of it) with some inexpensive motorcycle oil, dumped that, then new filter and good oil. Still up on the stand, I fired it up, clutch lever felt great, goes into the gears as smooth as ever. Damn knocking is still there running in gear in idle. I have been told by a few users that this knocking is normal when the bike is in the air, in gear, running idle, with no resistance to the back tire. I got a phone call from Rick who put my mind at ease letting me know that it will sound like it's falling apart when idling in gear. No noise in first gear, very little in second, very obvious in third and horrible in fourth. Didn't even try fifth in idle. HOWEVER, with throttle (about 3000 RPM) no noise in the first 4 and tried 5th with throttle, still no noise. Well,,,, except the awesome noise (music) coming from my BUBS. hahahah Greg

HI GeorgeS, Yes I did know that. I mentioned that in my post: "I put in the pretty purple spring conversion and yes, I put it in correctly. You were all right, there are only 2 positions that it sits flush and yes I torqued all 6 bolts in." According to many users, when the bike it up on a stand with no resistance to the back tire, there is some knocking (sounds broken) when in gear at idle. No noise in first, however, by the time I put it in third at and let it run in idle,,,OMG!!!! give it some throttle and the noise goes away.

OOOPS!!!! Yes I used an INCH/lb wrench. I purchased one just to do this job because I read that my ft/lb would not be accurate at that small torque. I will edit my post. Thank you.

Yes, when tightening them, I did stagger the pattern. Right down to the last torquing with my in/lb wrench. Greg

Hey Cougar. Yes, I did soak them overnight actually. However, after putting them in the bike, they sat in there with no oil for about a week because some sh!t came up and couldn't get back to it. I was so tempted to put in an auto clutch. After you get to ride it for a while, please tell us all how you like it. Greg

WOW, I sure hope that is the answer. Yes the bike is on a stand (bought that stand from a user here, can't remember who though) Clutch lever pulls in nicely and putting it in gear felt normal. The shifter felt totally normal. I just don't remember this clunking sound before. Sounded like it was broken. When I get home (can't wait) I will try again by applying the rear brake. Can't take it for a ride because still ice on snow outside. Do you remember that small pressure ring at the very back behind all the plates? I put that in so that the ( faces the clutch cover, not towards the back. In other words, the rounded part is sitting against the read and the raised part is up against the first plate, pointing (if you will) towards the clutch cover. Like this: (||||| hahaha, hows that for a diagram. Greg

Here I am again and looking for HELP!!!! I got my new Barnett clutch friction plates, steel plates and the Barnett spring conversion all it. Bike is up on a stand, started it up, pulled lever in, put it in first, then second, third and then I started hearing some pretty nasty clunking going on. What the F have I done wrong? I followed the steps. To alleviate some of the possible replies, this is what I did: I removed all the old plates, took the wire off that holds the last couple pieces. I put the new smaller friction plate in along with the original ring (spacer - whatever it is), put the wire back in which wasn't really that tough to do, put the small pressure ring in and then put in all the frictions and steels in. **Note, the Barnett plates DID NOT have any notches or markings of any kind. I read that they didn't therefore no need to worry about lining them up. I put in the pretty purple spring conversion and yes, I put it in correctly. You were all right, there are only 2 positions that it sits flush and yes I torqued all 6 bolts in. After I had it all together, I drained the oil and then i only put in 3 liters of oil because I am planning on dumping it right away to flush or (at least dilute) any older oil in there. I don't thing the clutch would be knocking (clunking) like it was just because I was a liter short of oil. I have not opened it back up again but I swear it sounds like something is broken. What did I do, or not do? Anyone ever experience this? I pray there is an easy remedy for this. Greg

Here I am again and looking for HELP!!!! I got my new Barnett clutch friction plates, steel plates and the Barnett spring conversion all it. Bike is up on a stand, started it up, pulled lever in, put it in first, then second, third and then I started hearing some pretty nasty clunking going on. What the F have I done wrong? I followed the steps. To alleviate some of the possible replies, this is what I did: I removed all the old plates, took the wire off that holds the last couple pieces. I put the new smaller friction plate in along with the original ring (spacer - whatever it is), put the wire back in which wasn't really that tough to do, put the small pressure ring in and then put in all the frictions and steels in. **Note, the Barnett plates DID NOT have any notches or markings of any kind. I read that they didn't therefore no need to worry about lining them up. I put in the pretty purple spring conversion and yes, I put it in correctly. You were all right, there are only 2 positions that it sits flush and yes I torqued all 6 bolts in. After I had it all together, I drained the oil and then i only put in 3 liters of oil because I am planning on dumping it right away to flush or (at least dilute) any older oil in there. I don't thing the clutch would be knocking (clunking) like it was just because I was a liter short of oil. I have not opened it back up again but I swear it sounds like something is broken. What did I do, or not do? Anyone ever experience this? I pray there is an easy remedy for this. Greg

I got it all done. Now I can't wait to actually take it for a ride to see if it actually functions properly. Thanks to EVERYONE that replied. Greg

Thanks Spike

If I am missing something here, I apologize. I guess I am confused because of the different terms being used. IS there anyone that has installed the Barnett Clutch Plate Kit, Part# 306-90-20082 I am going to try to be very specific with my questions so I can get the specific answers I need so I can get my new clutch installed. With all due respect to everyone here, I am asking for help from someone that has installed this kit or a link to someone that has posted full instructions. One link I was given was to replace the clutch basket. Another link was for a 1st Gen: http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=001006&id=396 which does not mention anything about half disc or odd disc. Others were installing a new clutch from a different manufacturer which says in the instructions that the Barnett kit "should be" the same. I can't afford to go with "should be" Again, with all due respect, I appreciate everybody for your help, however you need to understand that I have never done this before so I need to feel comfortable. I am not afraid to do this however I don't want to get in there with a lack of information and lack of understanding. I DO NOT need to know about the spring conversion. I am pretty sure that part will be easy. Just so we are on the same page, this is what I really need clarification on. And just so you know, 1. There were no instructions with the Barnett Clutch Kit. 2. None of the Barnett plates have any notches or marks of any kind. So please don't remind me to line up the notches, there aren't any. I can only assume at this point that lining up the Barnett frictions/steel plates is not needed/required. The kit I received is: Yamaha Clutch Plate Kit- Carbon Fiber Part# 306-90-20082 Notes: Includes all frictions and steels. Consisting of: Yamaha Clutch Friction Plate Kit- Carbon Fiber Part# 302-90-20037 Notes: Consists of 8 plates. Steel Clutch Drive Plate Part# 401-90-089050 Quantity Required: 7 Notes: 2.3 mm thick This is what I know: The OEM setup consists of that (commonly referred as) "half disc" which is held in with a wire. As you can see in my photo, it shows one of the 8 friction discs being an ODD size. So, for ease, lets say: 1. "half size" for the OEM 2. "Odd size" for that odd size friction disc from Barnett. Now: 1. Does that Barnett ODD size friction plate replace the OEM half disc and wire? If YES, a. Is there a benefit to that? b. Will I lose clutch / throttle play for slow maneuvering? c. Do I need to use that wire with the Barnett odd sized friction plate? So, if that Barnett odd sized friction plate does replace the half disc, would I be correct in removing the wire then the half disc, storing in a box for "just in case", and then putting that Barnett odd sized friction disc as the very plate installed? DO I need to use that wire with the Barnett odd sized plate. Sorry to be a pain. Someone here must have done this Barnett Clutch Kit on their 2nd Gen. Thanks you . Greg

Hi Andy, thank you for your reply. What I really need is to hear from someone that installed the Barnett Yamaha Clutch Plate Kit- Carbon Fiber Part# 306-90-20082 Notes: Includes all frictions and steels.

Thanks George. I don't have any concerns about replacing the Barnett spring conversion. It's the Barnett clutch plate kit i am confused about. I now seen some instructions thanks to darthandy & Jeff and others. however. my concerns now are about the parts held in by that wire. Do those parts get stored away and replaced with that odd sized plate? And if so, the results of the clutch/throttle play as i asked regarding slow maneuvering. Greg

Thanks Andy, not really what I was looking for. I need the actual details replacing the OEM clutch with the Barnett clutch kit as well. Two things I just need to be 100% sure about: As seen in the photo, I have that odd size friction plate. Does that plate replace the parts that come off after removing the wire? really confused with this. After reading that link, he chose to keep the inner half friction disk because replacing it reduces the friction zone on the clutch handle. Does this mean if removed I will have less throttle/clutch action for slow maneuvering? If that is the case, then losing this would be very difficult in slow turns (u-turns) and chance too much grab and could drop the bike. PLEASE clarify this for me. (God I feel stupid - hahahaha) If that is the case then I would want to keep the inner half disk. If I keep that inner disk, is it absolutely necessary to remove it? Seems like a lot of work if just going to put it back in again. Also, just to be sure, the Barnett plates have no notches. Does that mean there is NO lining up the plates??? I know it is easy to assume there is no lining up required however do to the fact I have never done this before, I don't want to go with an assumption. If I can get these questions / concerns answered, I can do the upgrade this weekend.