RonK

-- 31,000 and the only problem has been getting the CB radio to work (finally did, but don't use it now anyway) and Sirius radio doesn't always load so I have to turn engine off and restart system after a minute or so. --

-- Question: What does this cost and what does it do for my system? Has anybody done this? --

-- Baster would work. Other option would be to have a clean pan under the drain hole; open the drain hole for a moment; put plug back in. If too much comes out, since it's clean, just put some back in tank. --

-- I know you're talking bikes, but the two blue top deep cycle batteries on my pickup camper are 25 years old. I keep a tender on them all the time when not using. --

-- I'd sure like to have reverse on my Eluder. Has anyone ever looked into it or know anything about doing it? --

-- The GoldWing takes the exact same tires as the Eluder/Venture, so any info there is good here. I use the Bridgestone Driveguard Run Flat in a 205/55-16 and have 18,000 miles on it. It should go to about 26,000 with the amount of tread on it. It puts my speedometer exactly right on based on my gps. Would use it again. Fits fine without any mods other than with the tow bar from Rivco that needed some shaving of bracket in one corner. --

-- On the front wheel, I put on a Bridgestone BattleAx BT45 rear tire in the stock front tire size of 130/70x18. The rear tire had much more tread on it. I got 20K on it running at 40#. New one is the same size. On the rear wheel, I put on a Bridgestone Driveguard run flat radial 205/55x16. I paid Tire Rack $117.00. It's a slightly larger diameter which puts my speedo exactly right on. Odometer is 2.5% over actual. The width is a little more than stock and flatter so it rides straight more readily. I run 28# in it and have 18,000 miles on it and should get another 8,000 miles down to 2/32nd. I have the car tire mounted at either a Honda dealer that has me sign a waiver, or a Yamaha dealer that doesn't ask. I can't say I have problems with either tire. The wider, flatter rear tire is, as any wide tire would be, a little more effort when turning, but something that's not noticeable once you're used to it. To me the safety of the run flat is worth the effort. Some riders forget that the different ride feel is due to the width of the tire more than that it's a car tire. Being a car tire just means you have more choices for a rear cruiser or tour bike tire. Not for the front or a sport bike, of course. My bike didn't come with a factory TPMS, so I use a stem mounted after market which works fine. --

-- I guess the traffic was a bear! --

-- This is what I've purchased for my bike. Links above are good. For the elecrical connections, you need the sub harness and isolator. If you're not sure on which plug converter, give them a call and they will get the right stuff easily. Good folks and real good on delivery. --

-- At the bottom of the antennas, there is a small L or R near the base that tells you which side to put them on. I had a lot of trouble getting my c.b. tuned in. I never could get any truckers to answer. I don't think they use the c.b. like they used to. So I had to get some shop with a hand held unit to get it going and get the right series of buttons pushed. Dealer was useless. --

-- Every guage I have is different. I went to 6 tire shops and every one of theirs was different from mine and each others'. So I use a guage that reads 3# over what I want presuming the TPMS I have is accurate. I asked the manufacturer of the TPMS and he said that of all the ones ever sent back under warranty, none were off. Their method of testing is supurb. (What he said, anyway.) --

-- I have just received the info I need and will pass on to everyone: https://electricalconnection.com/index.php/product/isolator-yamaha-venture-eluder/ This is the link to my bike, butElectrical Connections has these for most all models. For my bike this will bea total plug and play with even the plug that hooks to the trailer. You can contact Lewis @865-219-9192 for more info if needed. --

-- General question: If you've hooked up a Yamaha for towing and have wired the bike forthe electrical hookup, then how'd you do it? Did you splice into the factorywiring under the seat by splicing the wiring and use miscellaneous parts, ordid you find a plug and play set up that included a relay and isolator? If so,where did you get your harness kit? I could go the splice into existing wire route, but a kit that has been designedto protect the bike's electrical from shorting out would be the better way togo. I want to hook up a Bushtec trailer which has the 6 prong coupling, so it'shard to find anything if you don't have a Harley or Goldwing. --

-- When I first got mine, I just felt the seat was too hot all the time even though the control said off. I disconnected the wire to the seat as I will never probably want the seat hot and haven't had any heat problem in that area since. --

-- I just move the jack back a little and then it will balance. --

-- Since the old Purolator Pure One filter has changed, I have gone to the new Fram 7317 series. It looks to be a superior filter and has no relationship to the old cheapy filter that everyone disparaged. --

-- Can this be used some way for the gps/info system in a 2018 Venture/Eluder? --

-- On one hand, if you are getting 75k (that's 75,000) miles on a tire, you ought to stick with it. On the other hand, if you mean you are only getting 7,500 miles, that's short. If you are heavy on the throttle, that's a penalty you have to pay. If you are interested in long mileage, the two solutions are go easy on the throttle and/or go Darkside. You can read the thread here on "Darksiding '18 Venture/Eluder" and check out the comments. I have 18,000 miles on my rear Driveguard and will get another 10,000 miles, or so (can't measure right now) before down to replacement tread wear. It all depends on what you want from your bike. --

-- I don't know the exact mileage, but somewhere above 20,000 mine started getting smoother. Or at least, that's when I noticed it. Of course it could always be that around then was when I started getting more used to the bike and was working more in sync. --

-- I have had this problem many times. I have cross checked the reception using FM radio or Sirius XM and always get reception on my bike speakers after a few moments, but not always on my helmet headphones. The problem seems to be in the signal sent out by the info system into the cord connection going to the headphones but not the wire or speakers themselves. If that happens from first startup and no reception after a couple of minutes, then I pull over, turn off ignition, wait 30+ seconds, then start up again. Usually that will work by resetting the system (I guess). Sometimes it takes a couple of tries. Then to keep things hot, so to speak, during the day for brief stops like getting gas, I just turn the ignition switch to accessory so it stays on, then back to ignition to run the motor. I used to think the problem was with Sirius, but it's not. As best I can tell, it's what I said above. I guess enough riders have not had this problem and reported it to Yamaha that they really believe it's a problem at all. You will have to have the dealer duplicate the problem and then have the problem again when on the phone to Yamaha. But you know how that works. When in the dealer's lot, everything is fine. --

-- On my RoadStar, I run my fronts (with a stock rear size Commander II) for about 15,000 miles, then, as they are cupping by that time, pull the wheel and turn it around so it rotates the other way. This gets me another 15,000 miles on the tire without any problems anywhere. --

-- After much research, I believe the best now is the Fram XG 7317 which is a 20,000 mile filter. It's not at all like the cheaper starter Fram filter that has gotten all the bad reports. I use it now on my '18 Eluder and will on my Road Star. I did a lot of checking around and comparing a bunch of other brands/models before choosing this since, I too, had been using the old Purolator Pure One. --

-- Just got back from a 9,000 mile trip from CO to VA to ME to WI and back. Much of the distance was 70 mph on slab, but overall mileage varied from around 38-43 mpg. Even my last fill up in Denver (5,000' elevation) was low 40's. Then even with some slow traffic jam, the rest of my trip back home of 240 miles was above 5,000' and over the Rockies. I have not filled, but what the gauge shows and knowing how accurate it is, I'm back over 51 mpg. I rode that last 240 miles not yet hitting the low fuel notice. So what changed in the whole trip? One thing, the elevation. I drove the same on the last leg, but that changed from all the prior ride. So maybe that's why all this time I've been averaging over 50 mpg corrected to gps reading. --

-- I've been using my new Driveguard for about 6,000 miles so far on my trip. Works well, but is pretty strong on wanting to stay upright in turns and on road depressions. Use with about 30 psi. --

-- One would presume he found the first cap was the reservoir cap. --