dynodon
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Everything posted by dynodon
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I like the idea of a belt drive. How many of us have had problems with the shaft drive on the Ventures? My VR has had recurring leaks at the engine drive point, and the rear pinion bearing went out last year. I would welcome a belt drive on my next bike! As for V-twins not having power, my wife's Shadow Ace Tour has an 1100 V--twin that is a really entertaining scoot. I am a big guy, and other than the smaller windshield not protecting me much, I really enjoy riding her bike. It has PLENTY of power compared to my VR and she keeps up just fine. I just don't like the "Harley" style of bike, which is why I am not crazy about the Venture. The new Voyager also looks too much like a Harley, but at least it has a frame mounted fairing I will want to take one for a ride as soon as possible.
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OK, that looks cool, but how does it work? How much did it cost and where can I read more and order? Don
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tried to go to the chat room, and it won't recognize me. I am signed in here OK. what up?
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For ticket deals, of course look on-line, and when you check into the hotel, quite often they have deals right at the desk, and every time I have been to Vegas, they have people just standing in the aisles that hand out deals (not the hookers, they are usually on the street!). Tip: The wife and I decided to get married again last time we were there. Went out on the town, and at every stop, asked where the best place to get married was, and without a doubt it was the Little White Church. We went just for the basic deal, if you want flowers, other than taped music etc, it all adds up. We even got offered a limo ride back for free (went there in a cab, were going to get married at the drive-up, but they said we could come in for the same money, and get the limo ride home....they were hoping we would buy pictures/flowers/ring etc!). But here is the kicker. At dinner the restaurant bought us desert because we were getting remarried, and We got discounts on some other stuff. They love lovers in Vegas!
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I am too far away to participate, but I have a suggestion. The wife and I went to see both Blue Man Group and Cirque du Soleil the same week. We did enjoy Both, but if we had to choose just one for pure entertainment value, Cirque would win hands down. No contest. At the time Cirque just had two performances, the regular family one (something based around a monster) and the semi-nude "adults" show:no-no-no:. Well, we are midwesterners and opted for the regular one. We loved it. now they have several shows, and I don't think you can go wrong with any of them, but there are several sites if you just google them and Las Vegas, you can read up. Really, no contest. Blue Man got a little fussy and somewhat boring at points, trying to be "cool" for the sake of being cool, and it was just like what we had seen on TV. Cirque was 110% GO GO GO with something happening everywhere all the time. Never a dull moment, and heck even the family version leaves little to the imagination! Music was even better and still live. Don't think you can really lose with either one, just that Blue Man kind of doesn't stack up to the Cirque show for entertainment value. At least for us! Have a great time.
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YOu mean the US maps that show what states you have been in? Try this: http://www.epgsoft.com/VisitedStatesMap/
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Rear end gearbox
dynodon replied to timgray's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I just put Amsoil Severe Gear 75-90 in my '86. It works great. Do not use automotive engine oil in it! -
Sticking caliper
dynodon replied to okiefirefighter's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Verify if it is just the LF brake that is sticking. If the rear is also running hot, you have a stuck or plugged valve in the Master cyl connected to the foot brake pedal. This happened on my bike. If just the front left if hot and dragging, then go into the caliper and try the things mentioned before. The pistons are available from Yamaha, but they want a small fortune for a rebuild kit, and it only does ONE side of the caliper! -
Things like the 3000 mile oil change, and the WRONG info that Synthetics cause leaks or leak more are all from the bad old days when oil had no detergents, and had a parafin base, and engines ran cold and got gunked up quickly. Synthetics (Amsoil in Particular) were some of the first oils to get detergents that cleaned out some of that gunk and cause the old leather/live rubber seals to leak. Today ALL oils for general use have detergents and seals are much better and don't rely on piled up gunk to not leak. When engines ran much colder and were open to the outside air, oil got much dirtier. PLUS early engines didn't even have oil filters! So changing often was necessary. Today, with modern filtration, engines that are sealed, and better sealing of rings and better oils, most oil is still perfectly fine at 3000 miles. Manufacturers just had to wait till some of those old "mechanics" tales started to finally lose their teeth so they could extend intervals to something more realistic. I am an AMsoil dealer (full disclosure) but believed in synthetics long before I became a dealer, and I buy mainly just for myself. I put in a bypass filter system in my daily driver and ran one oil change nearly 30,000 miles (just changing the original spin-on filter every 6000 or so miles, and adding the bit of extra oil) and it STILL tested perfectly fine to keep using. When running a quality synthetic (Amsoil, Mobil 1 are two of the best, not ALL synthetics are high quality, and stay away from those designed for "racing"), you can usually go 5000 to 7000 miles, but be sure the oil is formulated for "extended drain intervals". Amsoil is famous for great additive packages that allow extended use beyond 10,000 miles in most of their oils. Going 25,000 or more it is highly recommended to have extra filtration in the way of a bypass oil filter. Oil analysis can be found at any Amsoil dealer, or on the Amsoil site, or at most Diesel truck repair shops/service centers. IT is a good idea to do oil analysis every year at least on vehicles you plan on keeping a long time. If you trade every year, it isn't worth it. Regular oils can easily go 4000 or 5000 miles, but I wouldn't take them much beyond that. As for wear, there is more than enough proof that synthetics reduce wear, but the difference is small but measureable. There is also a small MPG gain. Where you can save money with Amsoil is extending that drain interval to 7000 or more, and cutting changes in 1/2 or more. Less time under the car (or in the shop) and less oil to recycle. It can save money or break even if done right, and you are getting better protection for your engine.
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Buy it now seems to be gone. Be sure you want an open trailer because if you get caught in the rain and don't have everything WELL protected,.............everything WILL get wet! If the open concept appeals to you, then go for it, seems pretty well built. Not too heavy, but not light either. One thing to keep in mind, that trailer is built with most of its load space, and the cooler rack well in front of the axle. That means that unless you have some heavy stuff to put in back, you will get a higher than normal weight on the hitch. You want approx 10% of the total trailer and load weight on the ball, and that looks like you will get 30% or more! and that could lead to overloading the rear tire or suspension. Especially with the spare tire mounted where it is. Personally, I would spend more money and get an enclosed version with better suspension.
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I am a beliver in synthetics and just have to smile when I continue to hear stories about leaks. This comes from synthetics being one of the first oils ever to have detergents in them. Back when oil had a lot of parifin in it, that gunk and other crud kept old style leather and real rubber seals from leaking by plugging it up. That isn't the case anymore, and ALL regular oils and synthetics have detergents in them. I can site many many cases where oil use went down because synthetics hold their viscosity and actually run thicker than regular oil. If anything, a synthetic will leak through a hole less, because it doesn't thin out as much. when sitting, if you have a hole big enough for oil to pour out of, the fact that synthetic doesn't turn to thick sludge when room temp or colder won't really effect oil drips. All engines will use some oil, that is the design of an internal combustion engine. The cylinder and other moving parts are coated with oil, and some of that is burned. Some just evaporates, and synthetics are much better in this respect (won't evaporate) than regular oils. Most cases of oil leaks/use increasing come from people remembering those "old mechanics tales" from when synthetics were brand new and many people fear anything new. IN most cases, you get what you expect to get. Anyway, Synthetics are just fine for wet clutches (and posi units in rear ends) as long as the oil meets the specifications for the manufacturer. Stay away from "energy conserving auto oils for bikes with wet clutches. Amsoil has a great new 27 page intensive study of motorcycle oils over a wide range of types of bikes, and most of the popular oils. if interested, you can call Amsoil and see if they will send you a copy. all tests were done with ASTM procedures.
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88 VR Mods... Ya, went a little overboard
dynodon replied to The Crimson Knight's topic in General Tech Talk
Thanks for posting the article of your mod. First, the factory speakers are quite impressive! Very big magnet structure and decent sized coil. New Polks are obviously better, but the factory ones aren't bad. Second, now that you have the new speakers where the vent used to be, did you close off the vent? Otherwise, you may blow air and maybe even rain right at the back of those new speakers. What are you going to do for speaker grills? -
Well heck, who would have thought someone would photoshop just to win! LOL Well we either just move on with the flag target, or go back to whatever had the topic TOTALLY DEAD for about 2 months. Even bogus pics are more fun than that!
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I use my Venturerider cup exclusively for soda. I have found that if you close the pop-up feature when the soda is fresh and topped off, it will build pressure so you can't push down the button. IN that case I have learned just to leave the top open till I take a couple drinks and am a few miles down the road. Never had it "POP" or come apart. I just unscrew the main lid a bit to relieve pressure. Mine has kept ice in it for more than 12 hours on an 85 degree day! I love mine, and soda isn't a problem as long as you realize the pressure thing.
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Mike, The Rock City Barn has been found, Big flag should be pretty easy for anyone, just have to do it. I think we are back on track. About your trip, did you get off the interstates? Since Rock City is in the SE area, I am pretty sure there are a few barns in the area you were in, but you may have to get off the big roads. Anyway, they were all over the US at one point. I thought it was a pretty good target, and it was found pretty quick. Seems we are going again, just need to keep the targets something most people could find. Having a chance at a target makes it more fun, as you implied.
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I have a small business and shipping is a constant bother with costs varying. $6.80 is giving the seller just $2 for packing materials and his time and expenses to take it to the post office. Priority minimum cost is $4.80, the Post office will give you a box free, and I use them anytime I can to save about 50 cents on boxes I must buy for other things. I see shipping used as a profit center all the time on E-bay, but $6.80 for almost anything these days is cheap, plus you knew it going in. As long as the item came in as advertised in good condition, to complain about the shipping is being a bit of a pain. maybe the seller could have reacted a little better, but a rabid response to any negative seems to be the norm with a lot of sellers. In this case, if the guy wanted to send it in a shipping crate and lose money, as long as you got the item in good shape, it makes no difference to you.
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will the Polk 401's fit the Royale (I have an '86) also? how hard is it to get these installed, just bolt in, or some mods? Thanks for any tips. I agree though, a better speaker will help, but more "clean" power would help too. There are some times when I just want to listen through a speaker rather than the headphones.
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I use the 2X4 trick on my wifes Shadow ACe Tour. It holds it nearly straight up. If concerned that it could still tip over, take some rope or a tie-down and just secure it on the kickstand side so that it can't come over if you lean on it, or wrench on it and pull it away from the kickstand side. Keep some chrome and general purpose cleaner and a few rags near as you are under the bike, and do some cleaning. I just changed oil on my VR. and cleaned up a lot of stuff I have never seen before (just bought it last fall, and the shop did most of the oil changes up to now, getting other stuff fixed). Very rewarding, and it is always a good time to check for loose bolts/screws. While at the windshield, check out the fairing mounts if you can. A friend of mine found most of his mounts were cracked!
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At this point, there is nothing that tempts me to quit maintaining my '86 VR. The new Kawasaki Voyager is close, but barring a ride, it doesn't turn me on like my VR. IF Yamaha brought back the VR style bike (I get tired of the Harley Look alikes, and want a "new" VR) I would consider that. I have put about 9000 miles on mine since I bought it about a year ago. Considering I started slow, I could expect to take about 10 years to put 100,000 on anything, but I know that age 60, I am probably going to slow down that rate rather than ramp it up. but then again, I am considering just retiring and the wife and I doing more travelling. Maybe I can get in 100,000 before age catches up too bad?
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Papa Smurf didn't mention what kind of accident it was. IT reads like rider error rather than someone turning in front of them etc. If you can Papa, let us know what type of accident it was. No matter what you ride or drive, you can't let concentration wander or overdrive your vehicle, skills and sight. I ride with several groups, and never let the group dictate to me how fast I go in situations where my "alarm" goes off. Same with my wife. I have told her to go with her gut, and slow down if she doesn't feel right. And we all know that no matter how careful you are, you can't plan on the stupidity of the oncoming or turning driver/rider next to you or in front/side of you. All you can do is drive aware, and keep as much safety zone as possible around you. Also, try not to ride in the most dangerous times, late at night super early morning, bad weather, rush hour etc. Can't avoid all of them all the time, but try to eliminate as many problem areas as possible. I have been lucky so far on my 2nd go round with a motorcycle, and am enjoying the heck out of my VR. But I remember the words of a pro racer who told me this: "The minute you think you have your motorcycle figured out.....stop, get off and get a little bit afraid of it again." A little fear is a healthy thing.
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Used parts available for 1st Gens
dynodon replied to Dragonslayer's topic in First Gen Parts and Accessories
Do you have an original tool kit, complete, the correct one for the VR? How much if you do. -
Trailer makers and towing pro's always say put about 10% of the total trailer and load weight on the ball. to make it easy, start out by weighing the empty trailer, or take the manufacturers weight, being sure to add in for things YOU added or accessories. Then weigh everything you put in the trailer (after a while, you will get in a pattern, and only need to weight stuff a couple/few times, a rough estimate is OK as long as you are keeping things within reason). Be sure to add for a cooler and the ice/water/ stuff inside. Then weigh the pressur on the ball. Use a board inside the ball coupler, down to a bathroom scale. Example: 250 pounds total trailer+stuff, you should have at least 25 pounds on the ball. Empty, say a 150 pound trailer, put 15 pounds on the ball. Or you could go a little more for an empty trailer. As mentioned watch out for load shift. You want the trailer slightly nose down so stuff will shift forward rather than back if it does shift, or at the worst, dead level. Keep stuff packed so it won't shift, or use a net or straps. Finally, check the wheel bearings and how tight the coupler is. The coupler on many styles is adjustable. A nut reached from underneath can tighten the coupler or loosen. You want it so there is a little bit of play when clamped down (don't forget to use a lock or some sort of device to secure the coupler lever, they CAN come loose!) Use some grease inside the coupler and on the ball. These can wear and cause problems, you want as little friction as possible. clean the grease and re-do a couple times a year or more depending on how much you use it. Check the wheel bearings for proper play. I have seen trailers come from the factory with loose or tight bearings. Either is no good. You want the bearings so there is no drag, but not much play. Set tire pressure no more than the Max listed on the sidewall, but that is the MAX, and only for super heavy loads, you can go less, but you do NOT want too little air. Check with the trailer MFGR for their recommendations. Finally, once you get on the road, at EVERY stop, check the tires and the wheel bearings for heat. SOME heat on the tread and a little in the bearings is normal, although on cool days, the bearings should run cool to the touch. If either is HOT or too hot to touch, you are asking for trouble, a tire failure or bearing lock up. Either can wreck you. If the bearing is hot, adjust it immediately. Same with tires. A hot tire is either underinflated or overloaded. That is why bigger trailer tires are better if you have that option. I have towed all sorts of trailers for 40 years, and these tips were taught to me by my father who was super informed about trailers. Car, truck or bike, the rules are pretty much the same. Of course, watch when turning, and remember that backing up is an adventure, but practice in a big empty parking lot, and you can get good quickly at backing that trailer into a space. Try to look for spots where you can park without having to back if possible. When dodging potholes/bumps, remember the trailer wheels too. IF you feel sway starting, then slow immediately and find the problem. A tiny sway can happen to some trailers in the wind, but a big sway can take you off the road. Keeping proper tongue weight is essential in preventing dangerous sway. And of course, don't overload the trailer. They can help you carry lots of stuff, but packing light is still the best plan.
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Stick with the next target as: You your bike and a farm silo w/tractor, much easier to get, and doesn't require waiting for dark. The pick with the character was great, but just a little late. Making the targets easier won't make this less fun, it will make it more fun. More people participating is better than fewer.
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As mentioned, if you have to rely on the ball for a ground, you have a problem. But I have been trailering big and little for over 40 years, and helped my dad before that. Never took off anywhere without a little grease on the ball. In all that time, I have NEVER had a hitch coupler get clogged or messed up. the grease helps prevent rust on both components, and you should clean up both of them a few times a year depending on how much you trailer. Only if you have a stainless steel ball will rust NOT be a problem, and I don't know of any stainless couplers, but maybe they exist. I have also seen parts on the coupler worn to the point of failure by not enough (or no) grease. I hAVe seen balls worn and rusted to the point of failure. Admitted this usually happens with large heavy trailers that see a LOT of miles, but nobody here really knows how many miles you or anyone else plans on using, and thus, you should get good advice and GREASE that thing! If you are worried about getting grease on your clothing, then carry a ball cover, or wipe it off every time. OR use one that is on a removable mount. Just a bit of other advice: 1. EVERY time you trailer and get off the bike, go around and touch the tire tread and the bearings. (good reason not to have wheels with hubcaps) if they are HOT then you could have a problem. Fix it. 2. Check the rig over every time you stop for loose ball, or coupling, or wires/chains dragging or a load shifting etc. Safe trailering not only may save your life, but MINE!
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Problem, now there are two targets, but since there wasn't any comment for so long, I would vote for the tractor target, also, now that 4th of July is over and weather is cooling, fireworks might be very hard to find? To be fair, why not let BOTH targets ride, and the first one to find one of them, then gets to set the new single target. Be sure to check the thread before posting any new "targets" to make sure one hasn't already been set?