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dynodon

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Everything posted by dynodon

  1. dynodon
    I just bought an HJC IS-33. 3/4 with a face shield, drop down fighter pilot style sun shade, and nice look and interior. First helmet I have had that I can actually feel the airflow when those tiny vents on top are open. Fit very nice, size was true to their size chart. It seems to not go down as far on the sides by maybe 1/2" as the Nolan I still have. I buy the cheap J&M headset units with the thick speakers. I had to cut out all the padding at the ears to mount my speakers, but they fit great, don't touch my ears and the sound is good, still plenty of padding around the head to protect. You can get them lots of places, shop around you can get them for $120-125 with free shipping.
  2. dynodon
    I'll second that the V-nose isn't worth a whole lot in MPG, but I will say this, we had an aluminum 2 horse trailer with regular round nose, went with a V-nose just a little lighter, but in headwinds, we do a LOT better. But this is a much taller wider trailer than a typical 2 bike trailer, and we haul about 6000 or more pounds with two horses. GEt it tall enough that you can get in it easily, you don't want to be walking in with the bike, and have to be "small". Same with width. putting in two bikes is tough enough, but make it wide enough not only for the bikes, but for YOU to be there with the bikes! Get lots of factory tie-down d-rings or other mechanisms is you can. and a front walk-in door is a HUGE benefit in loading, unloading and tying down. When loading, you want to make sure that your hitch, the ball mount and the ball are rated for the full load, and put at least 10% of the total load on the ball. Biggest mistake is to put way too much or even a bit to little weight on the ball. Can be terribly unstable if too little especially. If your tow vehicle has a modest suspension, and you find the back end sagging, do NOT go with air bags, go with a weight distributing hitch. They cost a little bit (not a huge amount) but hold their value, and won't ever wear out. they stabilize the vehicle, and trailer, and make towing a LOT safer. Please consider this for any trailer if you don't have a heavy duty tow vehicle. Even then, for bigger loads, the better hitch is a good idea. Draw-tite and Reese offer several different load equalizing hitches. I would be glad to talk to you by PM about this if you want. I have quite a bit of experience towing with them up to 9000 pounds.
  3. dynodon
    I used to torque everything with a torque rating! No more. I became an adult (did the torque thing when helping my brother-in-law before I was 16!). Those torque ratings are for the FACTORY only for the most part, when bolts and threads are new, and parts are going together with perfect wrenches on an assembly line. The ONLY bolts you should use a torque wrench on older cars/bikes are Big bolts that hold important parts like lug nuts, axle nuts, rod bolts and nuts, head bolts etc. Most anything else and ANYTHING that is small and goes into aluminum or sheet steel, should be tightened by hand and when you feel it getting tight, quit! Many bolts today are designed to bottom out, things like valve covers have thin rubber gaskets or use silicone seals, they do NOT need to be tight. If you feel it bottom out, give it a TINY tug and quit. If you are concerned about it coming lose, use blue loctite (sp?) the red is for major stuff like rod bolts. If you MUST torque stuff a lot, then buy a really good wrench and have it tested from time to time, and don't use it to take OFF stuff.
  4. dynodon
    you need to try a gentle polish or glaze first, something with a little abrasive in it. pretty much any wax that says "cleaner/wax" has some abrasive and will help remove scratches and bring back a shine, but a dedicated glaze is better. Stop by an auto body shop supply store and buy a small bottle of 3M or Meguiars glaze, made for a final shine/buff. use it by hand with a thick sponge or cloth folded over several times. work in small areas, and keep working out farther and moving. If you can get the shine back to your satisfaction in a few minutes working a small area, you should be OK, but if the shine won't come back, or most of the scratches are deep enough to feel with your fingernail, then your only solution may be to take it to a body shop and have them sand, re-paint if necessary, and re-clearcoat. On small parts already off the vehicle, it should cost very little. If you want to try clearcoating the part yourself, make sure you have a shine first, because any small scratches will show through perfectly! You may have a shine on top, but you will see all the scratches below the surface. If you get it wrong, you can always remove the finish and start over or you are still left with paying a body shop, it is unlikely that you will hurt the part itself.
  5. dynodon
    There is no such thing as a "simple" oil question as you have found out. Disclaimer, I am an Amsoil dealer, but don't do it for money, I buy for myself and sell to a few friends. The old mechanics tale of synthetics causing leaks is just that, and OLD tale, and here is the straight scoop on why: When synthetics were first used during WWII, almost all oil was paraffin based, and didn't have detergents. Wars kick forward technology, and synthetics protected better and cleaned better so Amsoil started selling synthetics after the war, and they were among the first oils to have detergent. Up to that point, the paraffin based oil would gunk up the inside of engines so much that they would destroy themselves. those deposits though, would get around the old leather and real rubber gaskets used at the time and reduce some leaks. When synthetics with detergents came out, they cleaned up some of that gunk, and leaks started. Today, there are no more leather and real rubber seals, and even cork is almost never used. Oil also almost never contains paraffin, and engines stay cleaner, but ALL oils now have detergents. Don't know why someone at Mobil 1 would say an 83 engine isn't compatible, but it is. There are uninformed people spreading false info everywhere. Maybe some of you will think I am, but all I can say is I didn't start using synthetics till I did my research. I used Mobil 1 for many years, and finally went with Amsoil, but Mobil 1 and Valvoline and most other synthetics are quite good, I just feel Amsoil has the best additive package. Synthetics will let a new engine break in just fine, and I have lots of examples of older cars going to synthetic for the first time, and leaks slowing and oil use slowing. My own '89 SHO with 80,000 miles went from a quart in 3000 to a quart in 5000 after switching to synthetic. No new leaks. Synthetic remains thicker and protects better at high temperatures, so it is logical that it would leak less. Regular oil turns to water, and synthetic also is thin at high temps, but it retains its viscosity better, thus provides better oil pressure and leaks past seals less. You can switch back and forth from synthetic to regular without problems in fact "blends" that many use are just that a blend of regular and synthetic. I don't use them because you don't get the full benefit of synthetic or the price break of regular. Is using regular oil and changing it at recommended intervals treating your engine good? Of course, using a synthetic is proven to reduce wear/tear, but over the life of an engine it is hard to tell, but the benefit is there. Especially in racing, motorcycle, and long life vehicles, I prefer synthetic, knowing I am getting the best protection. I tend to keep cars for well over 100,000 miles. Just trying to stop these persistent "old mechanics (false) tales".
  6. dynodon
    I collected my first deer in 45 years (first one ever) this spring. But luckily a small one in may car, still it was $4500 damage. Body shop got a huge laugh out of me calling and asking if they would take the deer whistle off the old bumper cover and save it for me! LOL Maybe the don't work, but I look at it like Chicken Soup, it couldn't hurt, as long as you don't rely on them. Glad you weren't hurt worse, be sure to have your spine/neck checked out. if you were sore at ALL in that area, please get checked out regularly. I had a rollover accident when young, and now can't turn my head, as I have fused vertebrae. If I had known it would happen over time, I could have done something. too late now I guess.
  7. dynodon
    Sounds like a good time, it was an event I tried to make, but couldn't. I would be in favor of going if you did it again. But for now WHAT HAPPENED to downtown Rockville! When we were there for the Covered Bridge Festival last year, we saw some construction going on, but it looks like they tore down several historic buildings. How bad is it? OH, did you tour the county jail that is now the visitors center on the square? What a neat experience. Here I am (in trouble as usual) while touring last year:
  8. dynodon
    Freebird and several others have it right, Star is about the local chapters. Yes, there is a national and several good regional events, but the local group is what makes it great. I bought my '86 VR about three years ago and before it arrived on a friends pickup truck from out east, I was a member here and at "The Venturers". I found that both offered similar things and most people are in both, but there are interesting differences Then I met Ray, the President of Star 242 (Central IL) through these groups. I attended a meeting, was instantly accepted, they helped me get up to speed as I hadn't ridden in many years. Those Star people are now some of my best friends. 242 was for some years (before me) just a few "buds" that didn't do much. New leadership has had the chapter grow a LOT and we ride several times a month when weather permits. We just finished a big maintenance day where several people saved hundreds of dollars on service and had a great day to boot. I have been to my first regional Star events and am going to another in August. There are some stinker local clubs, and if you find some, look for another chapter. The people here (Venture Rider) and elsewhere on the internet don't have so many local events, and that is the main reason to be a STAR member, for the local aspect and rides (if your chapter is a good one). And like our chapter, it may not have been so great once, but is doing well now. that may change in the future, local clubs ebb and flow, for better or worse all the time. Even the one chapter that was mentioned that was so bad, may be better now, or started up as a new chapter, don't discount anything till you try it out! I am also a member of GWRRA even if I don't own a Gold Wing, and have friends in the area Kawasaki group, and I sometimes ride with the local BMW group. Have ridden with some Harley guys. Find the right groups, and they don't care what you ride, just that you are a decent person and share the hobby. I like that Star wants people to follow the law of the land, speed limits, drinking and driving/riding etc. If you don't like those rules, then find another group. I find the Star membership worth it, (although their web site is lacking much compared to here and elsewhere), and if you don't want to buy a patch, don't buy a patch. Some of our people wear all sorts of patches, and some wear none. Certainly I feel membership here and with the Venturers is also worth it, and gladly pay the fees. My 8.5 cents (sorry about the length).
  9. dynodon
    I agree, the fun comes when the most people have a chance at finding and getting the shot, without having to ask someone to do something unusual or risk being un "PC". I understand the desire to try to set the target at something a little harder, but then the thread stalls. Let Ferrantelli set a new target.
  10. dynodon
    I read about using a heated spoon to melt a pocket, and I tried that on my Nolan and my wife's helmet when putting in the J&M system. Heated the spoon on our gas stove (helps to have a flame rather than electric stove!) and just pushed it into the foam where it needed to be thinner. I guess you could also use the edge, but I just used the convex surface and kind of rocked it around. Yea, made a bit of a mess, and took some time to clean up the spoon, but it worked. And yes, any removal of foam takes away a little safety margin, do this at your own risk, but if you are going to have in helmet speakers, it is better to get them recessed and away from your head some than have them tight up against your ears. The rest of the undisturbed foam should do a pretty good job in an accident.
  11. dynodon
    I have a friend that has a nice bike, BMW, and it gets maybe 100 miles a year. He has a tailbone problem, but if he lays on the tank, can ride a little. Used to do 1000 mile days like it was a trip to the corner store. Hist first BMW looked brand new and had over 150,000 miles on it when his problem stopped his riding. I have friends that trailer to distant destinations and then ride a lot. Have friends that have bikes they COULD ride, but don't much. Like my first friend used to say at car shows, when people would tell him what THEY would do with his nice old cars if they had them...."Well, when YOUR name is on the title you can do what you want, till then, Shut up". Only he may not have been so nice about it! I used to have collector cars that I would trailer. Their worth was in their low mileage, also they were unrestored cars, so they couldn't just be fixed up. Once had a magazine hack tell me they gave an award for the best "restored" car because anyone could put a car in a garage for 30 years. Well, I sent him copies of letters from dozens of people that used pictures of my original that I let them take, to restore THEIR car better. Plus my car got some miles and you can't just let them sit for 30 years. Takes just as much effort to keep an original looking new, as it takes to keep a restored car looking new. Anyway, whatever floats your boat, as long as it doesn't infringe on my rights. Ride, don't ride, trailer or not. Just enjoy the bike (or old car, or boat or salt shaker collection).
  12. dynodon
    I work in my basement and garage, but when I finish my "packing and lifting" of orders, I will ride my bike to the Post Office and UPS. So yes, I will ride my bike AT work today!
  13. dynodon
    At least last year they were still available new from Yamaha, they want a pretty penny for them, but if you must have it, and one doesn't come up on e-bay (I got mine after over a year searching) then buy a new one?
  14. dynodon
    my 86 VR with all the factory stuff works just fine EXCEPT the right channel on the AM/FM radio ONLY (CB/intercom and fairing speakers all work fine) and ONLY on headsets, will come on and off with bumps. I can push on or hit the console at the bottom on the little bar, and the channel will come back on usually, till another big bump. I have removed the console, all the pins and connectors look shiny and new, none looked bent. I know it is probably a slightly loose connection on ONE pin, but I can find no way of tightening the connection, is there a way to maybe raise the connectors in the fairing or lower the ones in the removable console so they will be tighter? If anyone has solved this or has a suggestion, I would love to hear it.
  15. dynodon
    I think that despite tire, pressure and other adjustments, some tar snakes and cracks will just cause a slight wobble. One city in our area uses what seems to be a rubberized crack sealer that other cities and county don't. Hit those tar snakes and your bike will wobble...EVERYONE I know complains about it, brand new, cruiser, touring, used, all sorts of tires. Other snakes I hardly ever notice, though they look the same. the type of tire tread can help, but I doubt a slight incorrect tire pressure will make a difference, of course if the pressure is way low or way high, that will effect most riding. Check out everything mentioned, but if in the end you still get a little wobble, just avoid those snakes!
  16. dynodon
    I never lived in Indiana but practically grew up in the area you describe as my parents camped almost every weekend in the summer. In the last couple decades I have spent as much time in Indiana as I can, it being about the best driving/riding state closest to me in Central IL. I would recommend that while you are that close, you take 59 all the way to 36 to Rockville area and tour some of the covered bridge routes. Then take 36 east to Danville, IN and the Mayberry Cafe. Yes, all Mayberry RFD, all the time, along with great midwest food, and some SUPER deserts. Worth the stop. Then your route to Nashville and south looks good, but Consider taking 56 from Salem (off 135) to French Lick and West Baden. The new casino/resort at West Baden is one of the wonders of the world, and worth a visit. Also see French Lick resort, then you can easily take 56 on to 231 and back to Salem. Or take 145 south out of French Lick through the Hoosier National Forest and take 64 back west. Can't say enough about how you will enjoy West Baden/French Lick if you have never been there, and try not to miss the Mayberry Cafe and covered bridges in Rockville.
  17. dynodon
    I put on a water bottle holder from Wally World, and cut the top part off. Made a bracket from 1/8" X 1 1/4" aluminum strap for my Gen I, don't know why you couldn't do something like that for a Gen 2. Made the same basic setup for my wife's Honda Shadow Ace, using longer bolts from the hardware store. I have the VenureRider insulated cup that works just fine. the cup holder I got has a rubber strap that is adjustable for big to small cups. Only problem is that the rubber strap tends to grab the cup when I want to take it or put it back, but if I twist the cup slightly when removing/replacing it, it goes fine. Never has come close to coming out. The insulated cup I got from this site, holds ice for more than a day in 90+ degree heat! They should offer it again if it isn't still offered.
  18. dynodon
    I have two Coleman white gas stoves in my basement that belonged to my parents. If you want it for your motorcycle, you better have a trailer, or maybe you should consider a single burner type that is more compact. If you have a trailer or will use it when camping with your car/truck, then get the bigger version, but consider the white gas version. A small can will last almost forever, and the fuel is available at most discount/camping stores, and many gas stations. You have to pump them up a couple times for a big meal, but they are so sturdy. I guess you could get everything in propane, or everything in white gas/kerosene, but get the lamp, heater etc all in one style.
  19. dynodon
    Whenever I am driving or riding in the area of an accident, I look EVERYWHERE but at the accident. Since I am likely to be the ONLY one not looking at it, I want to know who else is going to crash like that guy. Too bad. But gawking will get you sooner or later. I would rather miss seeing the aftermath than become the subject of a video like that.
  20. dynodon
    Joe, Hope you have a good trip. Sounds like you will be coming real close to where I will be Saturday all day, El Paso, IL. about 10 miles north of Bloomington/Normal IL on I-39. If you want a break about then , and are coming through Bloomington anyway, why not stop by El Paso for a big bike show for charity right on the main drag (a block north off US 24). I will be at the table for registration with STAR 242 helping run the show. Have a good ride.
  21. dynodon
    A week ago last saturday, I was leading a group of about 8 bikes to Indiana from Central IL. Star 242 actually. On I-74 between Champaign and Danville. We were 2 second staggered in right lane at about 68 mph clear day, nice riding weather. Cars coming up fast in left lane, so we were almost totally covered on the left with cars, and in the distance I see the biggest "gater" (truck tire tread) I have ever seen almost totally blocking the middle 2/3 of the left lane. Car drivers don't see it I guess, they keep coming on. I get on the radio, holler for single file, and "pull far right, obstruction in the left lane, watch out for cars coming into our lane!" Or something like that! I also gave the single file signal (one finger straight up above my helmet). I was happy that our group behaved as one, got on the white line. I maintained speed, there wasn't time to slow significantly, and I didn't want too many instructions to confuse things. The cars saw the gater with almost no time to spare and went BOTH directions, coming close, but not hitting any of our group. I was real proud to have been part of several safety talks over the past couple of years, making sure everyone knew the signals and rules. At one point this year I was going over the "rules" before a ride and one of our group seemed peeved at my taking the time to go over stuff they had heard a dozen times. I ignored this person and went on. Safety is something I take seriously. So have meetings before rides, help new people understand the rules, and go over the signals from time to time. On this day, a fast reaction probably saved some lives or skin. I hope the cages appreciated how our bikes knew the danger before they did, and helped them through the situation safely.
  22. dynodon
    if your bike is garaged, use old bed sheets, better for the paint and windshield and free. easy to wash. NO they won't work outside, but that is why I said "garaged"! I have a cheap cover I got off e-bay, can't remember the company but it is US made, and I use it on the road. Way too much trouble for daily use in my garage. I try to stay away from products from China these days.
  23. dynodon
    If you look, you will find someone with "attitude" in every group. I thought I wanted a Wing or a Harley, but couldn't afford it, so I bought an '86 VR over 2 years ago to jump start my second life on two wheels. I then started riding with Star 242 in Central Illinois, but quickly also joined Chapter Z of the gold Wing club in the same area. I have felt the same exact kindness and welcome from both groups. Heck, this week, I went to a Wing evening ride, and after suggesting a path to our destination, I was asked to lead the group. Now that was a large charge,me on my 23 YO Yamaha leading a group of mostly brand new Wings. And nobody complained and they complemented me. They are just glad to have me along, and I am glad to have them as friends. I have also gone on rides with a local BMW group, and THEY were all nice and interested in my bike, as I was in their big BMW touring bikes (a few rode smaller dual purpose bikes). Have been on rides with the Patriot Guard where it is 95% Harley, and me and the Wing/Kawasaki/etc bikes were all accepted. I think your personal attitude may have something to do with it. if you approach a group expecting to be put down, you may find the person that will do it. Go in with a friendly attitude and you will probably get that back. But there are different types of sub groups all over, and if you don't feel welcome in one, don't condemn the entire group, find another that you mesh with. There are plenty of clubs and groups to choose from, even in corn country!
  24. dynodon
    (disclaimer) I am an Amsoil dealer, but became one to buy at discount, but I believe in the products, and the system. I make a few bucks a year, and get the products at a good price. I use the Amsoil motorcycle 10-40 oil. The only difference between a 10-40 and 15-40 is that when COLD the 10-40 is a touch easier to flow than a 15-40. The first number is how the oil acts in cold weather, and the second number is how the oil acts at working temperature. In otherwords there is NO difference between a 0-40 and a 20-40 or anything inbetween once it gets some heat in it. I change about every 4000 miles, and probably could extend that to 6000 if I wanted. About the person that went back to regular oil after not detecting any difference with synthetic I will say this. In just riding, it will be very hard to tell any difference. If you used scientific instruments, you could confirm a small increase in MPG, maybe 1, 2 at most, over the same weight regular oil. This will be VERY hard to confirm by just checking MPG at fill ups, but it is there. But more important, there will be better protection for the wear surfaces/bearings over the long haul. Every major oil manufacturer has proven that over a lifetime of use, engines have less wear/tear and last longer with synthetic. So are you abusing your engine if you use a quality regular oil? Certainly NOT. But for engines that live on the edge, and motorcycle engines qualify there, a little bit of extra protection is nice to have. Plus if you extend drain intervals a little, you won't spend any more money, and you will spend LESS time under your bike or at the shop doing changes. Most people change their oil WAY too frequently. Any Amsoil dealer can get you an oil analysis kit that you should use on all vehicles about once every year or every other year at least. This minor expense will tell you a lot about your vehicle if you keep them a long time. I believe Amsoil makes the best lubricants, but Mobil 1 is a good, and so are many other brands. Stay way from "racing" oils, these are meant to provide more power, at the expense of protection. And of course with motorcycles with wet clutches, stay away from anything that says "energy conserving" and look for oils made specifically for motorcycles. Amsoil has products perfect for any motorcycle, 2 cycle engine, etc.
  25. dynodon
    There is a course this Saturday at ICC in East Peoria. I wanted to go to the class there last saturday but went with my STAR group on a ride to Indiana instead. I will probably go to this class the 30th as a walk-in and see if I can get in the class, the registration deadline is past. BTW, Roadkill, any movement on that ride to Decatur to go to a race at Macon Speedway? I will send a direct message to you about it, but I still want to do this and my son and wife would probably go too.
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