dynodon
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Everything posted by dynodon
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OK, unless someone beats me to the submit key, I have my first victory! This is in Triumph, IL, just in the corner of I-80 and I-39 SW of Chicago. My son and I, my granddaughter and a couple that are friends of mine from the STAR Touring chapter 482 went to Utica, and I talked them into the 10 mile detour to see the oldest Curling club in Illinois. Check out my son and I, the group shot and the shot of the building, see how LOOOOOONG it is! I haven't had time to think up a new target, so I will try to post that very very soon.
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oh no, that is so cute I am going to faint from the overwhelming :crackup:cuteness!
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my '86 VR is "The Couch" named by the guys in the shop where it sat a week or so waiting on a friend to bring it to Illinois from MA. It was so comfortable they would take breaks on it! I just liked that and so that is its name!
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I googled Curling clubs in Illinois and there is a state association, but they are all up North from Peoria where I am. Don't think I will be able to get this one either, but it may not be as hard as you thought!
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OK, this doesn't count since I had it taken during an event in Joliet earlier this summer, and there isn't a sign, but that is THE prison from the Blues Brothers movies, and the entrance behind me is one that was made specifically for the scene where Joliet Jake gets released and waits for his brother, Elwood. They left it after the movie was made, there wasn't an entrance there before.
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What's outside my driveway? a street, a corn field, street light, and sometimes some wierd people on motorcycles! Just regular stuff in other words. I have not been able to make a single catch but I still love this thread, and hope to get one some day!
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Motorcyclist Magazine Article - helmet study
dynodon replied to GG54172's topic in Safety and Education
I have been buying Snell helmets for decades for use in my car related activities, and DOT for the motorcycle. Without fail, the Snell helmets are better built, more comfortable, better fitting, and longer lasting. They cost more, but not a huge amount more than the better DOT helmets. I want the Snell inside a car because there is more chance of multiple hits with the steel shell in a bad wreck, where on a Motorcycle, the tumble may have several hits, but not usually all as contact with the steel of a car body. I am sure this information (thanks for posting) will cause a major "think" among the industry, but I do think the magazine went too far in claiming that the Snell sticker is just a cost added item without any benefit. Every Snell helmet I have seen has a quality that I like and can feel. my latest Motorcycle helmet is a Shark Evoline. My first full face (modular) helmet for my bike (I like open face). I look forward to getting to know it a little better. I usually buy Simpson helmets for my car uses. I like the guy that makes them, and his philosophy, and I like the look and feel. -
I don't know, I think that is just the Loch Ness Monster, and no boats....... OK, I will vote yes, and I say set the next target, How about something right outside my driveway?
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craigr, I tried the same thing several years ago when both my hips were pretty bad, could not swing a leg over a saddle, but could get on a trike. Went about 1/2 a mile and turned around, it was like driving a car, but just a bit more open. A couple years later, I got two new hips, and a couple years after that I got the courage to buy a used "86 VR which I have now put on over 13,000 miles in the last 3 years, and love it. No pain, no problem holding the bike up, can swing a leg over to get on easily. I may have a trike someday, but not right now. If you can get insurance to put in a new hip (or two), you won't regret it. My Dr. told me not to ride, because broken bones are bad, but with all that metal inside, it can get real bad in an accident. But I decided to go for it, and am loving every mile. Life is a risk, no matter what so I will be as careful as I can and enjoy.
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I can't blame the tire maker or tire stores for always saying replace and never repair, but I have repaired car tires for many decades, and never had a failure. I once was at an autocross with my '89 SHO, and got a nail in a BFG R1 race tire. Someone put a plug in it, I aired it up and went on with the event, planning on replacing the tire at some point, it was on the back. But I forgot about it and for 10 YEARS used that tire rotating it to every corner of the car, at speeds up to 120 mph on real race tracks. These tires were heat treated by the Tire Rack, and I tend to do 15 minute sessions and don't do sliding turns, try to drive right. These tires never wore out, the plug was still good a decade later, and I finally replaced the tires just because I wanted a stickier tire, they were still better than street tires. Another story, in the late 60's I was a student in college and a friend of mine had a dad that ran a Standard Oil gas station. We were there goofing off one day when a salesman came in selling tire plug kits, the type with the goopy threaded stuff that you stuck into the hole after dipping it in glue. HE had HUNDREDS of plugs in the SIDEWALL of the tire on the Left Front of his car. Really! He made his sale, then hopped in his car and was back on the interstate at 70 mph. Never heard from him again, so I hope he lived. Use your best judgement, and if money is no object, replace the tire, but if the hole is not big, and damage is minimal, and you use a good repair, then I myself would plug it, even from the outside. YMMV.
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With a little searching on this site, I found what some others had done, and I got started today on my cracked '86 VR Trunk. I found that between the two rear/outer bolts, there was a crack than ran all the way across the trunk. I bought some epoxy, and cleaned, sanded the area inside, and then worked the epoxy into the crack with a gloved hand. Then I took the flatest spot near the bolts and drilled a hole and put a both through with some washers on either side to re-inforce the area just to the rear of those outer/rear bolts. I will then put a layer of JB weld with some fiberglass mat across the entire area, with more JB weld on top. All of it inside. I am hoping that will support it and keep it together for a few more...years? Just with the epoxy, the crack is stabilized, but I don't hold out hope that that alone will hold up over time. Giving it plenty of time to cure between the various solutions.
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Well, My 86 VR has an oil leak that appears to be at the output shaft to the driveshaft at the engine. Local dealer has put seals in twice, still drips once in a while. But more to the point, I have serious cracking around the rear bolts (maybe the fronts too) on the trunk. Will have to address this before going many more miles. I will post a separate note about that. How's that?
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Please note that Amsoil is not a pyramid, or other type sales "gimmick". You become a dealer for a set fee. You buy product at a set price, the exact same price as any dealer in the country. You sell it for what you want, although Amsoil has a suggested retail price. You get to keep the difference between what you pay and what you sell it for. Now, there IS a commission structure, that gives you a percent back of what you sell over set amounts. Also, if you start others in the "business", you can earn a set percent of what THEY sell, but it doesn't come out of their income, it comes from Amsoil. The more dealers you have and the more they sell, the more you make. Plain and simple. There is no pyramid because everyone starts at the exact same point, and EVERYONE has the exact same potential. You get what you earn. Nothing could be more fair. When I ask someone to become a dealer I give them the info, and leave them alone. If they ask for help, I give it, but I don't require meetings, and neither does Amsoil. They leave me alone if I want, and I can attend meetings if I want. How is this a "gimmick"? Amsoil IS available on the shelf, any retailer can carry it, but many retailers won't carry a product they can't make 50% to 100% mark up on. Amsoil is not priced that way, it is a premium product, and in order to be somewhat competitive, it will have a mark-up of about 15-25% at most. So when you buy other oils at lower prices, you are still paying a huge mark-up. You can buy Amsoil direct on-line or by phone. Their shipping rates are very low. Everyone pays the same shipping. I called Monday for some motorcycle oil, and it arrived at my door today (Tuesday). 24 hours later and I didn't have to spend any time or gas money to drive and pick it up. IF I order several items at once, cost per item is super low. BTW, Amsoil was the first synthetic oil....the first. So all the others are the "off brands" if you will. Mobil 1 is good stuff, but Amsoil tests better in every test, yes, some tests are by Amsoil, but many are independent. Just takes a few searches to find plenty of examples, won't clutter the site with them now. I don't mind if people don't want to buy a product, or believe in the "opportunity" but I do prefer that people have their facts straight and not spread false information about a very good company that is helping many people build a real business and make a real income. They also have a lot of dealers like me that just like the product and buy their wife a nice dinner once in a while from the checks.
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I would like to be on that list, Egan is my favorite car magazine writer (Road & Track) and I have never read his motorcycle work! So let me know when it is my turn, and I will send the address, and THANKS for doing this!
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There is plenty of independent proof that a quality synthetic does extend engine life. Gas, diesel, big, little. high rpm or low. Wear is the enemy and synthetics reduce wear. They can also be properly designed for wet clutches. I run Amsoil, before that I used Mobil 1. I read and determined that Amsoil wins every major test of oils to be run on the highway. There are a few "racing" oils that can be proven to flow easier, but they never come out well in wear tests. Heck one major oil additive company tested their additive VS several oils including Mobil 1 and Amsoil and several top regular oils. The Amsoil performed better than any oil in protecting the test equipment, and was near to what the additive was able to do. But in defense of the other side, if you use a decent oil (and there ARE bad ones out there) and filter and change it often, you are treating your engine well. If you use a quality synthetic and change it less often, (and use quality filters) you are still treating your engine well, and over the life of the engine there will be less wear, and you can prove this through oil analysis. Analysis also tells you if you are having a problem with too much fuel, a coolant leak, a bad air filter and more. ONe test alerted me to a tiny hole in a K&N filter years ago, and once I sealed the leak, the test went back to normal. Might never have found the leak otherwise. Even in small engines, if you follow a routine of extended drain intervals, quality filters and oil analysis, you CAN save money over changing oil in the typical 3000 mile intervals, plus you put less used oil in the environment, and spend less time under the car or bike. Just my experience, and yes, I am an Amsoil dealer, I became one to save money on the product, and not for the "business" although you can make a business out of it.
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Jonsmyth, How to you try to do the centerstand? the way I do it is to stand with my right side to the bike, facing front. I put the arch or ball of my foot on the stand and put the stand on the ground while righting the bike and then feel for the center stand to be on both feet so the bike isn't leaning at all. Then grab the passenger hand rail beside the passenger seat with your right hand while still facing forward. Then just think in terms of trying to spread those two things apart! As you apply weight to the stand with your foot, pull up hard on the hand rail. As you get to a point of being able to straighten your leg a little, then the bike will just go up on the stand. I then ease off on the hand rail and actually use pushing back down on it to keep the bike from banging onto the stand. I can keep the front wheel up for a moment and let it back down easy. Give this a try, and the advice to raise the suspension to the max is also good, do both front and rear. One other thought, you might get a welding shop to put on a short extension on the foot pad of the stand, that might give you a bit more multiplication. I haven't looked, but there might be room for a small extension, and it won't take much. Too bad Yamaha didn't do something like Kawasaki did with the same vintage Voyager. That stand is double jointed and is SUPER easy to operate.
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I wear a helmet about 99% of the time. Just this week though, I was tired, stopped to find something at K-mart instead of Wal Mart, trying to spread the business around, and it wasn't there (and of course everything a guy wants is at the extreme corner of any store), and I just hopped on the bike and rode the 1 mile home. I believe in helmets though, and won't do any distance without one.
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Just put E3's on my '86 VR after running VERY old E2's since I bought the bike 3 years ago. The III's are superb. They are quiet, smooth and round! The old tires had flatland/Illinois syndrome, flat in the middle! So far I love the Elite III's and have about 500 miles on them so far.
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Motorkote comments and tracking??
dynodon replied to Judes Dude's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Nobody has mentioned that in the Motorkote Vs test video's on the web site, that AMsoil by FAR surpasses all the other products including Mobil 1 for most protection. -
I won this helmet at the STAR Midwest event last weekend in Indianapolis. Black, new, size XL, normally I wear a Large, but the person offering the item for the charity auction said it ran small, so I tried it on and it was a great fit. Here is my review after a nice one hour ride last night: I got to try out the Shark Evoline helmet last night. This is a heavy helmet, I feel it and the weight naturally shifts depending on where you have the chin bar, feels best with the bar back, but I don't think it will be a problem in either case. I had it on for an hour and it was fine. Weight was one of the worse comments about this helmet that I have read in reviews, I don't think it will be a problem for most people. But most important, it was the best helmet I have ever had for the least amount of air buffeting or wind noise/blast. With the bar back and the shield up, it was a nice flow of air around the face, with the shield down, there was a noticeable slow flow under it but not up into the eyes. With the bar in front position and the shield open, there was a little air around the face, and with the shield down, I could only feel a tiny tickle on the bottom of my beard. That was the important test, because if the helmet let a LOT of air up inside around the chin/mouth/eyes with the bar down and the shield closed it would be hard to stay warm in winter, but this promises to be a very comfortable and warm helmet in winter, with convertible features and usefulness well into spring and starting early fall. Yesterday it was totally comfortable. NOTE: temp about 67, winds calm. Bike: 89 VR with Baker wind wings and stock windshield. Most helmets put a lot of air up under the shield on this bike. Speeds, city to 55 country to 70+ mph highway. So now I look for a headset system for it.
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I am still getting the warnings from google. Even if I "ignore" the warnings and go in the site, I am unable to post anything or use the "contact" feature to communicate. Is there some way I can stop the Google warnings or does anyone have a direct e-mail to anyone at the Venturers site? I wonder if they still know they have a problem, or if they can help me stop the warnings on my computer? Thanks for the help, and for understanding about the "other" site being of value also.
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Star Touring seems to use Channel 1, and in my area at least, GWRRA uses 8. I have heard that 1 is the basic biker channel if not specified otherwise, and I guess 29 is for VR. About CB, it is a great way to communicate. A properly set up unit with squelch tuned right, will go 2-3 miles or more. Much better than a phone and many people can communicate together (one at a time) without getting anywhere near as distracted as with a phone, hands free or otherwise. CB is MUCH safer than a phone. FRS will work, but you have many more channels, and hands free is harder to do. Works great in a car in a specific caravan, but not for cross country to contact someone in the other lane you have just seen. Doing that on CB is also iffy, but I have done it before, pretty neat. If everyone has CB, and they keep the chatter to a low roar, it can be a huge amount of fun, and increase safety a huge amount. Letting everyone know of danger quicker than hand signals passed along, although we still use signals just in case someone doesn't have CB.
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If money were no object, I would have my '86 VR recreated brand new, it has everthing I need, and nothing I don't. Oh, a couple minor changes, a plug for mp3 player and a CD player. If not that, then the BMW K1200-LT, or the GW1800. I tried a new Ultra and the vibration would just get too me, same with the heat off the engine.
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I would say that if you have a trailer with very small tires, try to keep max weight down, keep air pressure high (follow trailer mfgr and the tire sidewall for MAX pressures), and check the tires and bearings often for excess heat. I would say stay close to the posted limits. If you have bigger tires, then 85 or so would safer, though still, the best bet is to always keep about 10% total trailer and load weight on the hitch ball, and touch test the tires and bearings at every stop. Don't forget to check your bikes rear tire too!
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Just got my bike back with new Dunlop Elite III's on it ('86 VR, had Dunlop Elite II's). First corner, the bike really leaned over, and surprised me. Then I figured it out..... My tires are round again. The tires I took off were on the bike when I bought it 3+ years ago, and I have put on about 10,000 miles in that time. They were 1996! tires, and I found a crack getting bigger on the back, so decided before going to the STAR event in Indy next weekend to get new tires. Those old tires, were like any old motorcycle tire, worn more in the middle than on the sides, thus they were kind of squared off! New tires are round and the bike wants to lean over sooner and easier. I also found I could hold my line better on sweepers. Love the new Elite III's so far, first new set of tires in many many years. (I didn't ride for 20+ years till I got this bike recently.)