Neil86

Test the voltage while running on the red/white at Ignitech (8 wire plug) and also at fuel pump relay. They should be at battery voltage.

Rodney... On an 83 the fuel pump wiring is different....I have an 83 service manual. The #2 firing was on later models....on an 83 you have 2 red/whites wires for power in (after engine stop (aka kill switch) 1 blue/black for power out to the pump. 1 blue/white over to tip over switch. The relay should be on "relay row" on the left as you face headlight. If tip over switch is activated it closes, blue/white goes to ground, opens fuel pump relay cutting off power to pump.

You might want to ensure the crankcase vent hose is securely installed to the center of the air plenums above the carbs....normal engine blowby gases in the hose can reek of exhaust odor.

When the bike is warm, probably testing the pickup coils and checking the connector from pickup coils is a good plan.

My thoughts and prayers go out to Skid at this time.

The starter relay (aka solenoid) is behind the black plastic cover above the riders left passenger floorboard. You have to remove floorboard and cover. The main fuse for the bike is integral with the relay.

While in 5th with the light not showing, trying setting the cruise....if it won't set, I would find the connector for the neutral switch and test the wires down to connector and the switch itself.

Have you thought about checking the valve timing in case someone was into the engine before you got it...yes its low mileage but no history is no history.

You will only have voltage for a few seconds after you power up using the key or cycling the kill switch, unless the engine is rotating.

Frank.... but the factory spring is covered by the rubber dust seal of the master. Nothing external on clutch side...on brake, different lever with a spring external, and of course the screw/locknut for free play setting.

Was the spring seat there or left out?

Randy.... same boost sensor was used from 83-93.

You might test the pickup coils first....there are 4 but they are paired up so 2 share a ground wire.....so losing 2 cylinders at same time can sometimes indicate a failing pair of the coils.

There is an external spring on the front brake lever, but nothing on the clutch side...the springs are inside the master cylinder/dust boot. It sounds like a previous owner did a fix.

Best place to start would be checking resistance of the pickup coils, mounted in the stator cover. Access the 5 wire plug, unhook and test resistance down to the pickup coils testing each color vs black wire in harness, looking for consistency in readings with engine warm. If they test okay next checks would be at the TCI (igniter).

Looks like 275 CCA http://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/10309513-everstart-battery-es20lbs/6000016949764

I've had good service with the E3's. Dunlop seems to have more inventory issues...tried replacing the rear last month and couldn't find an E3 in stock at several places, so you might plan ahead. I ended up installing a Michelin Commander II on the rear of my 99.

Another thing to consider is the state of charge of the battery on your first start of the day. If its not fully recharged from the previous cold cranking episode your ignition voltage while cranking may be getting too low.

Spark plugs in good shape?

Condor... what I'm saying is with lid open you can set to lock then pull out key....if anyone closes the lid its locked.

Open trunk, turn to lock, remove key close trunk.

Jeff on the 1st gen its tough....2nd gen you can lock with key out.

The brake light and tailight filaments are on different fuse circuits. Are your front running lights operating...if not, check the fuse for Tailights in the main fuse block, blue wire in and out. If the CMS is functional and the problem is at the rear of bike it should be alarming of bulb failure. If the fuse is blown so no power is getting to CMS, no alarm.

Are you noticing any odd tachometer behavior....rpm bouncing or dropping to zero at a steady road speed? It just seems very odd that an air filter would bring on sudden problems with operation. If its still acting up after the air filter servicing....you might try checking voltage at the red/white wire on the ignition fuse with the bike running.

Does the bike idle fine at normal rpm (around 1000)...starts okay? Is the bike lowered....one person that did this noticed they were getting the oil alarm more often afterwards.