Neil86

Certainly could try it, preferably fused.

Good. I would get the fan wiring sorted so it isn't on while cranking, that certainly can't hurt raising the voltage on the TCI.

Keep in mind that the more often you crank engine with no start, the battery is getting weaker and the voltage drop cranking increases. You are recharging the battery?

If you have an onboard voltmeter its helpful to see whether you are getting normal draw when hitting starter button....this can decide whether its a starter issue or the interlock side preventing starter operation.

If you are saying you have 12 V on Br/W wire at turn signal flasher with it unplugged....no thats not a good thing. Brown is power into flasher, Brown/White is output to the hazard flasher switch. Power is feeding back from the hazard switch.

Actually the b/w interlock wire from TCI has to be open (not grounded) for TCI to operate. Yes the sidestand switch closes when stand up but the sidestand relay opens.

Sent you an email Rodney...

Are you saying your fuel pump relay has red/white...gray.....blue....black if so are you sure its an 83?

The clicking means the pump is delivering fuel....then slows down as the needle valves shut off.....by design pump only runs about 5 seconds with no engine rotation detected.

But we are talking about 20% lower rpm vs indicated speed. I can see tires making 5% difference...

Have you recently pressure washed engine?

You might compare your speedometer to a GPS unit too, to verify its reading right.

You might also verify the compensating port in the master cylinder is clear. Its the smaller port on the top of the master cylinder bore that allows the fluid to return to the reservoir when lever is released. If it plugs off (takes very little to plug) even with lever released, engine heat will heat the fluid in the clutch line and if it can't expand through the port, the pressure starts increasing in the slave and opposing the clutch spring to cause slippage.

so if 3100 rpm is 55, then 85/55 X 3100 rpm is 4790 rpm @ 85 mph actual.

KIC... Comingbackdown was looking for the plates with the "pins" on the backside of the 83-85 saddlebags...see his previously posted pic where there are damaged. Heads sheared off. Lower bag has an undamaged one. http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o187/sickmusician/Bike/IMG_20140815_010922.jpg

Okay..... the mod is on the drain hose from the airbox......follow the line and see if it goes to a tee in the crankcase vent hose. If you run the oil level above half full in the sightglass, and at freeway speeds, it will carry a little oil into airbox....the drain removes it. Thats why post 2 asked about overfull. Check oil on mainstand, after it has been shutdown for about 5 minutes.

The 83 and 84 original airbox drain ran to the frame downtube on left side of radiator...and they dripped to the ground....is it dripping from that hose. Yamaha later redesigned so airbox drain tee'd into crankcase vent hose so oil would trickle back to crankcase. Earlier bikes were modified maybe yours wasn't?

Rodney... all I'm saying is in my 83 service manual they show one blue/white wire from pump relay coil going to tipover switch, a black/white from interlock system with a diode going to tipover switch too. Without the diode you could feed power from the pump relay back into TCI or into sidestand relay. Your diode may have failed causing the fuel pump relay to open randomly. In newer bikes (84-up) they redid the wiring so the tipover switch kills ignition, then #2 coil ground (gray) no longer cycles and the fuel pump relay opens killing pump.

The compression on the other 2 is normal? If they are normal and carbs are on it....make sure the throttle butterfies were wide open on the right carbs. otherwise you will get a low compression test. If someone messed with synch screws, this is very likely.

Rodney... as I mentioned before...I don't think the 83 relay is controlled by firing like the later ones. The later ones use the gray wire from #2 coil for tach and fuel pump relay. Normally the voltage on the black/white on the TCI (stock) is very low like 1.2-1.4 volts or so...don't know whats normal on Ignitech. With the black/white unhooked from Ignitech..and engine running...is there voltage showing in the b/w wire down to the tipver and sidestand relays? If there is...I would say there is a failed diode allowing current to flow through the fuel pump relay coil back into TCI.

Also over time the cover gasket rubber hardens and tend to develop cracks and start seeping oil. If you are replacing gaskets might as well check/set clearances as 90% of the work is done.

You mentioned if it idles for awhile it triggers the stumble. You might repeat this condition and do a couple tests... While the engine is running during stumble, test the power into the Igniter (Red/white) on the bike 8 wire connector. Test it versus the black on that 8 wire connector, to make sure power supply is steady. Then shut off bike and unplug the 6 wire connector and test resistance down to the 4 pickup coils (orange-Black, Gray-Black, White/Green-Black, White/Red-Black etc) looking for uniform resistance. Using the black on the 6 wire connector.

You can as a test temporarily unplug the tipover switch, bike will operate fine without it, but of course will staying running if tipped over.

2 red/whites 1 to relay contacts 1 to relay coil The relay is normally closed. When the coil is grounded through blue/white to tipover switch relay opens killing power to pump. The blue/black is power out to pump. If you are asking about fixing the hangers...I just reset them on the frame tangs and ran a few wraps of electrical tape around the hanger.

Okay... bike running and pump getting its power only from the relay theres 12 V on the R/W?