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Neil86

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Everything posted by Neil86

  1. Neil86
    Believe or not.....one of the tell tale signs that I need to bleed the clutch slave cylinder is difficulty hitting neutral when the bike is warm and running. Have a look at your clutch fluid....if its getting dark, change it and bleed the slave cylinder.
  2. Neil86
    Thats interesting....guess we'll see if anyone else with an 83 has the push in to cancel switch....maybe my memory has failed me!!
  3. Neil86
    Randy....I have an 86 that I bought in 92. It replaced a 83 that I bought new. Both standards.....I'm pretty sure the signal manual cancel was the same on my 83 as my 86, by pushing in. My 83 shop manual says push in to cancel manually. If you go to replace it...you probably want to stay with a standard so there is no push to talk trigger on the backside. 84 and 85 went to a different choke pulloff that was around the handlebar rather than under the switch...in 86 they returned to the same style as the 83. So I'd look for an 83,86-88 standard Venture.
  4. Neil86
    Condor......looked up a 87 Venture.....go to a fiche site...look under "Control Unit". Here are the parts listed to get a complete CLASS controller item#1 PRINT BOARD/CASE (yes appears to be face, control buttons, and display) 31M-W8591-M0-00 1 $311.13 item #5 PRINT BOARD ASY 2 (appears to be the board that controls the CLASS) 31M-85921-M0-00 1 $277.77 item # 6 WIRE, LEAD 26H-8356N-00-00 1 $22.11 item #7 CASE,UNDER 31M-85913-00-00 1 $65.01 So closer to $700 for a complete controller with case. Hope this helps.
  5. Neil86
    Two things come to mind....throttle cables/linkage drags from the heat of the engine, or a vacuum leak gets worse. After warming up bike and getting the higher idle....remove side covers and observe if the linkage is resting against the throttle stop screw where the idle speed adjustment is made (between #1 & #2 carbs --riders left...knurled head screw that points down). If the linkage is resting against the end of the screw, the cables are returning fine...if not, lube the cables and check linkage to see they return to the stop screw with machine hot. So if the cables/linkage are allowing the throttles to close against the stop screw, but its still revving....look closely at the hoses, and caps on the intake runners between carbs and heads....and the carb clamps for any vacuum leak draws in air...and works the same as opening the throttle butterflies.
  6. Neil86
    These articles in tech section should help you...... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13263 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705
  7. Neil86
    Perhaps they mistakenly thought they could adjust the height of the needle by moving the screw in top of the diaphragm? As for the running lights...the front should work regardless of the CMS....the tail light would be affected by the CMS.....going by your voltage readings, yes something is wrong in the CMS....hopefully solder crack.
  8. Neil86
    Okay...one side wasn't flashing, repaired short now nothing on either side. You mentioned only rear lights working are tail light and the running lights on front. Are you saying brake lights also not working? Recheck for power on the Signal fuse, it supplies power to turn signal, brake switches, horns, tach, voltmeter. If everything else works there....go to the Hazard switch and check (with Key on)for 12V leaving switch on the Brown/Yellow wire going to the flasher relay.
  9. Neil86
    Yes the 83-85 front right and rear rotor are the same. The cooling vanes on the left front are reversed to right front and rear. 86-93 all three different numbers and rotors.
  10. Neil86
    I've only had one headlight bulb fail on the 2 Ventures I've owned, I seem to recall when the bulb failed, the CMS icon stayed on, but the HEADLIGHT light on the dash only was on when I was using the failed beam, and the Reserve Lighting Unit had taken over. The RLU basically senses the filament fail and tries to power the other beam so you have a headlight to limp home. In other words, say the low beam fails, the CMS alarms all the time till bulb replaced....when on Hi beam the HEADLIGHT light on dash is off....switch to low beam, because that filament is not usable, the RLU takes over and powers the High beam filament, and the HEADLIGHT light is on to warn you are on the Reserve.
  11. Neil86
    If the icon you see has 5 straight rays to the left of the lamp, its the headlight failure icon, if it has 3 angled rays to the right of the lamp, it brakelight/tailight failure. Heres the order of the CMS icons, as they appear on the monitor sidestand down...... low battery fluid......... low fuel tank level low brake fluid....... headlight filament........ *fuel level* front or rear............. failure .......................********* ................................................................********* engine oil level.......brake/tailight filament...********* .....low.................... failure....................... *********
  12. Neil86
    Actually the service manual specifies having the bike upright when checking the final drive gear oil. Since you fill it to the brim, it will be low if it was filled on sidestand.
  13. Neil86
    The headlight will go out when cranking, theres a set of contacts that open behind starter button to conserve power while cranking. I'd recharge battery, remove plugs and crank the engine with no compression to help prime the oil system, verify no mechanical drag issues, before reinstalling plugs and starting.
  14. Neil86
    YICS-Yamaha Induction Control System. These were on the 83-85 Venture (and other models of that era). Essentially there are 4 chambers one for each intake that sit above the front cylinder heads. The theory is when a cylinder intake valve closes, some of the intake charge flows into the YICS chamber via the hose, when the valve reopens, because the YICS chamber is at higher pressure the charge flows out to the intake causing a swirl and better combustion. You can remove the hoses at the intakes and cap the intake nozzles, and leave the YICS chambers in place till you need to remove them to do valve cover gaskets etc.
  15. Neil86
    Okay....heres the thread on the starter switch / headlight issue. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=20644 I'd first try that....if that doesn't solve it, check the headlight fuse......fuse box on top of battery....if the labels are gone...you want the 10 Amp fuse with the red/yellow wire exiting. Inspect the fuse and the fuse clip holders....sometimes the old fuse clips oxidize, heat up, and lose tension on the fuse, so you get intermittent headlight loss on any bump. This happened on my 83, took awhile to track down. If you have good voltage on both sides of the fuse holder... then as Condor mentions, solder cracks on the CMS board can be an issue. Basically on a 1st gen the power for all headlight, brakelight and tailight circuits end up flowing through the CMS unit so it can "monitor" the bulbs.
  16. Neil86
    There are 2 sets of contacts on the starter button on a 1st gen....as you push in the starter button, the first set opens to cut off power to the headlight, meterlights.....as you push further the starter contacts close to power starter circuit. When you release button, if it doesn't fully return to its rest position the starting circuit opens but the headlight circuit doesn't close, so you have no headlight. Try working the starter switch a few times with the key off, then retry with key on....headlight should be on, then go out cranking then return when starter button is released.
  17. Neil86
    I think you'll find the U-tube pretty erratic as both cylinders try to lift the fluid...interested to see how it works out.
  18. Neil86
    Yes water/oil is more sensitive than mercury.....the problem is the Venture idles at about 10 inches of mercury.....to use water or oil (lighter than water) you need columns 13.5 times higher than mercury filled ones....(10 in Merc. X 13.5 = 135 inches or ~11 feet). Thats idling...as the throttles close while synching it can go much higher.
  19. Neil86
    One thing that tends to crop up on the 83-85 Ventures is leaks on the aging YICS chambers...the seams separate creating vacuum leaks, leaning out the carbs. I would think that could make for troublesome starting without choke. You could try unhooking the YICs and testing them for vacuum leaks with a Mity Vac. Some have just abandoned the YICS in place and plugged the intake ports.
  20. Neil86
    Black Knight....you have email
  21. Neil86
    What I'm trying to say is that the W0041 is the generic number of the part description. Without the prefix and suffix you don't have a part number, and without the same prefix you don't have the exact same part. They could have denoted the parts as 26H-master cyl rebuilt kit rear-00-00 for a 83 Venture 33M-master cyl rebuilt kit rear-50-00 for a 84 FJ600 but relying on spelling in part numbers is bad biz. As I said many posts ago, some parts on the 2nd gen Venture still have the 26H prefix, first used on 83 Venture. I believe the clutch hub for the rear wheel is one and the complete whole number matches the 83 -93 part numbers, they are a swappable part. Now doesn't it seem strange Yamaha would keep that part number the same?....nope...simplifies their inventory. The fact that Yamaha changed the prefix on the later master rebuild kits means the part changed .....perhaps not enough to matter....but I won't chance it on my bike.
  22. Neil86
    Condor..... heres a pretty obvious example...3 bikes...3 very different head covers, even look at the picture on the fiche..... GASKET, HD.COVER 1 1983 Venture 26H-11193-00-00 2 $23.68 GASKET, HEAD COVER 1 2003 FJR1300 5JW-11193-00-00 1 $13.87 GASKET, HEAD COVER 1 2003 YZ 450F 5TA-11193-00-00 1 $19.90
  23. Neil86
    Folks.....the W0041 is not the part number...its the identifier of what the part is....unless you have the exact same prefix, its a different part. look at these rear master cyl kits (all from Mrcycles.com) for models from a 1984 RZ350 thru to a 2003 YZ125. I just randomly picked models with rear disc brakes. Because the Venture used linked brakes, the master cylinder may have been identified separately (W0041 vs W0042 for these) MASTER CYLINDER KIT Rear 1984 RZ350 4GY-W0042-00-00 (replaces 29L-W0042-50-00) 1 $20.78 CYL KIT,MASTER Rear 1984 FJ600 33M-W0042-50-00 1 $47.40 CYLINDER KIT, MASTER Rear 2000 FJR1300 5JW-W0042-50-00 1 $30.98 CYLINDER KIT, MASTER Rear 2003 YZ125 5UN-W0042-50-00 1 $23.17 I just don't want someone getting hurt swapping parts here.
  24. Neil86
    1986 CYL KIT,MASTER (rear) 4W1-W0041-00-00 1 $32.34 (same for 1993, BTW) 83 CYL KIT,MASTER (rear) 26H-W0041-50-00 1 $40.92 Two different prices
  25. Neil86
    I had looked up the master cylinder part numbers before I first posted, and they are different numbers, and a major price difference. As for the kits.... 1986 CYL KIT,MASTER (rear) 4W1-W0041-00-00 1 $32.34 (same for 1993, BTW) 83 CYL KIT,MASTER (rear) 26H-W0041-50-00 1 $40.92 So I would say they are different parts. Regarding part numbers.....I have found parts on 2nd gens with the identical part number to 1983 first gens (even with the 26H prefix).
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