Jump to content

Neil86

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    835

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Neil86

  1. Neil86
    The voltmeter is on the signal fuse circuit, so a heavy draw on that circuit pulls the indicated voltage down, till it overloads the fuse and blows it. The horns are on the signal fuse, and are wired hot. Brown is the hot wire, pink goes to horn button then to ground. I'd look over the horns closely for a short right at the horn to ground.
  2. Neil86
    Unfortunately a lot of older 1st gens have had wiring "alterations" performed on the interlock systems....so the starter sometimes cranking can mislead one based on the original wiring schematics. So verify you have 12 V right at the red/white wires at the TCI as well as the coils. You mentioned checking the black/white interlock "ground"....you tried that at the TCI with the key on correct? You mentioned you did an oil change and filters. Any chance you were changing fuel filter and possibly disturbed the wiring harness? Didn't wash the bike during the service and the TCI got wet? If you definitely have to replace the TCI, I believe the main difference between the 83 and 84-89 is that the pressure sensor vacuum on 83 is tapped to the carb, the 84-89 is from the #2 manifold, so the timing advance looks at a different signal. I believe if you convert the vacuum signal over to the #2 intake, that a 84-89 TCI will work for you, and be more readily available used. The pressure sensor part is the same....from what I remember, but I'm sure others can jump in to verify or correct my info.
  3. Neil86
    So all the dash lights worked fine one day......quit the next? Does the headlight go out when you push starter button....(in case some "wiring mods" were made sometime). I just want to make sure contacts still feed both headlight and meter lights, to rule out the starter switch. If that checks out fine....try rotating the "illumination control" knob....maybe has a dirty contact-dead spot....work it back and forth a few times. No better.....check it for continuity and check for a bad ground connection on the instrument panel.
  4. Neil86
    The part number was from the XS11 site.....I just "ran" it at mrcycles.com and it comes up with a price of $5.68 so I would think its still available.
  5. Neil86
    well part number for dipstick might still be good... Part number 2H7-2815A-00-00 (Gauge, oil level)
  6. Neil86
    No, on an 83-85 Venture the rear gear case fill plug sits flat...use an allen wrench to remove (it may still have a black plastic cap covering the hex hole that pops off....most are lost). The 83-85 Venture came with a plastic dipstick in the toolkit ( I had a new 83)....and because the rear end was common to the XS-11, the dipstick was common and had two ends....one for the separate middle gear case on the XS-11 (the Venture uses engine oil, no separate middle gear sump) and one for the rear end. Here are the measurements from the XS11.com site http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=72 You want to use the end of the stick marked "rear".......the T of the stick sits on the sides of the fill plug hole.
  7. Neil86
    When you say the valve was not sticking up.....how far was it down...the full height of the cam lobe lift? In other words, the lobe opened the valve and the valve stayed there...or closed most the way? If you rotated engine with it stuck down, piston to valve contact can happen.
  8. Neil86
    Yes, change the engine oil to non-energy conserving oil thats designed for a wet clutch setup. change the clutch hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) and ensure the reservoir is not too full....it needs room to expand as the engine heats up, otherwise it will start slipping the clutch. You may possibly have loose scale in the lines that act like a check valve blocking return flow to reservoir.....so I'd flush a few reservoirs of fluid through the line....brake fluid is cheap.
  9. Neil86
    Maybe this will help....engine off....observe the linkage for #1 and #2 carbs....roll open the throttle to make sure both carbs (#1 & #2) linkages move. If everything is okay there.....then it sounds like the idle stop screw is backed out so the other 3 carbs are synched open further to keep your idle speed up. You may have to increase the idle speed stop screw, which opens #2 throttle, drops its vacuum then synchronize the others to it, then lower the idle speed now all 4 are in synch. You didn't mention having the 4 carbs bank apart...thats the only other thing I can imagine might foul things up if the linkages got misaligned when reassembling.
  10. Neil86
    The throttle stop screw that sets idle has a larger knurled head that faces down...you can adjust with your fingers. The synch screw for setting #1 carb to #2 is a smaller flat blade screw head that faces straight out at idle, and throttle closed.
  11. Neil86
    The hose from #2 intake hooks to the pressure sensor....which senses the vacuum in the intake and sends a voltage signal to the TCI to alter the timing advance based on the engine load (vacuum). When you unhooked the hose...you capped the port? Vacuum leaks at the pressure sensor or its hose do happen.
  12. Neil86
    On a Venture, as you sit on the bike.....left rear #1, left front #2, right rear #3, right front #4. ..^.. 2....4 1....3
  13. Neil86
    Brian... I would think that a normal level you have continuity ( 0 ohms), a low level on a reservoir (front or rear)you lose continuity (infinity ohms) and the CMS alarms. That would be a fail safe system...any broken wire / bad connection between CMS, thru the switches to ground would lose continuity and trigger alarm to warn you of a problem (actual level issue or wiring fault).
  14. Neil86
    Have a check on the 4 way flasher switch...must be totally off for turn signals to work. Swap bulbs to see if the left rear stays off with a known good bulb.
  15. Neil86
    Brad... Don't think I can make this one at this point. Summers waaay too short!!
  16. Neil86
    Actually the intakes are paired together....1-2 and 3-4. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=501
  17. Neil86
    Okay....this may be part of the problem....the Venture cylinders are numbered front left-#2......front right-#4 rear left- #1......rear right-#3 You want the hoses for the Jason mod hooked up (1-2) and (3-4).
  18. Neil86
    Reiny... Do you mean the actual address is venture_rally_stuff@.....
  19. Neil86
    Check your Jason mod hoses then....some can't take the heat and disintegrate. Sorry for asking but the carb synch was done with the Jason mod hoses removed and ports capped correct?
  20. Neil86
    First remove airbox lid and filter...are all the slides closed up or is there one stuck.....and check the throttle butterflies are all relatively closed. Roll on the throttle and release to see if they consistently return to closed. I would do these checks with engine off. If your YICS chambers are still hooked up....check for damage to the hose or the chamber itself.....the seams separate over time causing intermittent leaks as the engine vibrates. Several 83-85 bikes run with the YICS abandoned.
  21. Neil86
    Lowell... my condolences to his parents, you and all the family over this sad loss. Take care there my friend.
  22. Neil86
    The tach measures the pulses from the TCI black box for the #2 cyl coil. The TCI sits below the battery box and above the cylinder heads....might have got some water in there.
  23. Neil86
    There is a bevelled copper ring that sits in between the two flanges and the clamp surrounds them. Are the rings there?
  24. Neil86
    Brad T... the 83 had a basic clock at top of dash.....and no gear indication in the CMS display. the later Ventures (84+) had the clock, stopwatch below CMS as well as gear indication.
  25. Neil86
    Giga.... thats strange....re the choke....shows different in the parts fiche.
×
×
  • Create New...