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Neil86

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Everything posted by Neil86

  1. Neil86
    Wildgoose... good to hear its running better.....did you by chance reinstall the cowlings along with the vac pump? They will run poorer with the lowers removed...affects air intake flow....and they will bog at speed.
  2. Neil86
    geez sorry!
  3. Neil86
    Spark plug caps down tight on plug? Any chance the air intake ducts to carbs are loose?
  4. Neil86
    ummmm....I think he already fixed the problem guys....where he posted "That was it" in the subject line.
  5. Neil86
    My 86 isn't handy...guess one could cap port, apply, release vacuum and see if rpm change at idle.
  6. Neil86
    Brian...the diaphragm seals the fluid from the vent.....the vent allows the diaphragm (and the fluid under it) to be at atmospheric pressure, but not allow the fluid to be exposed to air. Typically the level should be about 1/2~3/4 full in the sight port to allow room for expansion due to heat from brakes.
  7. Neil86
    Jeremy....if you look in the electrical specs in a shop manual, you'll see 2 timing curves.....one at low absolute pressure (hi vacuum) and one at high absolute pressure (low vacuum), It shows extra advance right from idle speed, if the vacuum is high enough. The only variable is the manifold vacuum and therefore pressure sensor input.
  8. Neil86
    I believe that the 83 carb rack had one carb with the vac port for the sensor....ever since then the carbs haven't had it, and yes the pressure sensors are all the same and the 83 has a different TCI. Even if it is only an orifice, the dampening would limit the pressure buildup during an intake backfire, as well as smooth out the signal. I don't think you would want the timing (via the pressure sensor) chasing the vacuum pulses at idle.
  9. Neil86
    Most of the time its the starter button has not fully released. There are two sets of contacts...one opens the headlight circuit to conserve power for cranking..before the other closes the starter relay circuit. When the button releases...it opens the starter circuit but if it doesn't fully release, the headlight stays off. With key off, spray some Wd-40 around the button and flick the button on and let it snap out a few times. Should fix it.
  10. Neil86
    My 86 (Cdn spec) also has the fitting....I believe it protects the pressure sensor from rupturing if you have a backfire from the intake. My 86 is stored elsewhere...so can't check, but are you sure there isn't some internals...(ball, etc)...if so it may be unidirectional...perhaps it was installed backwards, not allowing vacuum to reach the pressure sensor? If you look on the parts, go to Air Filter, I believe its part #11, Nozzle
  11. Neil86
    Tartan... the water pump has one bearing and 2 seals....one on the oil side, and then one on the coolant side. You have a weep hole in between the seals (open hole on 1st gen, hose drain on 2nd) so if the drain is clear any seal leakage some drip out. You can unhook the hose and verify the hole is free. Personally I would investigate as the driven gear for the pump is plastic. You can try synching the carbs first. Did you try pulling in clutch in case its the discs rattling in the basket?
  12. Neil86
    The horns on Ventures are wired hot and they ground through the switch. Key on check for battery voltage on the Brown wire, should have 12+V. Try (with a jumper wire)grounding the horn terminal with the Pink wire, if horn sounds good....its it the grounding...(ie horn button and its connections). You could also unhook both Pink wires (one on each horn) and test them for resistance to ground with the horn button pushed. If wiring checks out fine.....I think theres a nut on the horn that sets the tone....been awhile since I looked at one.
  13. Neil86
    Randy is right...if the popping started with the muffler installation probably the gaskets are bad....do the Barons come with gaskets or did you reuse the ones in the old mufflers? Another spot to check is Yamaha had some exhaust cracking issues on the 2nd gens...I believe it was where the back cylinder y's into the system...look for discoloration on the chrome around the joint on both sides of the bike.
  14. Neil86
    George... shouldn't the plug cap resistance be 10K ohms?
  15. Neil86
    If the bike cranks fine with the sidestand down in neutral, but no ignition till you raise sidestand, probably one of the diodes has failed or the diode connector is bad...there are two diodes...one for the starter interlock, one for the sidestand relay coil. In effect when the one diode fails the sidestand relay coil can no longer ground through the neutral switch, ignition stops, till the sidestand is raised, then it can ground through the sidestand switch..ignition returns.
  16. Neil86
    Mike...basically the black/white is from the TCI...when the sidestand relay has to kill the ignition it closes the contacts between the black/white and the black so the control side of the TCI grounds and shuts down the TCI. You may just have a poor ground so when the relay tries to operate its only partially successful...thus the misfiring. Give the connector a good cleaning with contact cleaner.
  17. Neil86
    The plunger compresses with the sidestand down, extends with the sidestand up...so road debris can build up so the plunger can't fully extend, so cleaning may help. Since the switch is normally grounded with sidestand up, a poor connection can also trigger the alarm....so inspect and clean the 3 wire connector.
  18. Neil86
    The gear position switch is accessed by removing the middle gear case cover, if you look below the clutch slave cylinder, waaaaay back in, you'll see a triangular white plastic plate with 7 terminals, only 6 used on the Venture (N+1~5 gears), thats the gear position or "neutral " switch. (the 83 used a different switch since it only had neutral light, no gear indication). If you remove the 3 philips screws (one in each corner) the switch can be pulled out. With the switch out, you'll see the head of a brass pin still attached to the shift shaft. As you shift gears, the shift shaft and this pin rotates making contact with another terminal of the switch, grounding one of the 6 wires from the CMS and neutral light. The pin is spring loaded and starts out with a round end that wears flat from rotating across the switch over the years. You might be able to just replace the pin ("neutral point") its spring ("compression spring") the o-ring on the switch, and the middle gear case gasket. Part # are for 84-93 , prices are online from mrcycles.com GASKET,CRCS COVER2 (thats the middle gear case gskt) 3JP-15461-01-00 (replaces 3JP-15461-00-00) $2.68 SPRING,COMPRESSION 90501-06022-00 $1.90 POINT, NEUTRAL (the brass pin) 4UN-18542-00-00 (replaces 278-18542-00-00) $0.92 NEUTRAL SWITCH ASY 41R-82540-02-00 (replaces 41R-82540-01-00) $46.79 O-RING (that seals the neutral switch, its a orange o ring) 93210-29196-00 $2.82
  19. Neil86
    Mike...on 83-85 the sidestand relay is located above the headlight. Remove windshield molding, windshield, and the "hood" that covers the top of the instrument cluster. You'll see a row of relays....unless the rubber mounts have fallen apart, and you see relays hanging...it has 4 wires red/white, blue/yellow, black/white, black.
  20. Neil86
    Thats why I asked about neutral light....if you are losing both (light and indicator) its probably in the gear position switch/wiring....if you aren't losing the light possibly the CMS solder joints are bad.
  21. Neil86
    The idling test is good, but verify the fan can run first. Give a fan blade a flick to ensure they can freely rotate, aren't seized or jammed against housing. On an 87, the thermoswitch is under the right side grille of the radiator...look for a switch facing down with 2 brown wires on the connector. Unplug connector, key on jumper between the 2 brown wires, fan should start...if it does, reconnect and proceed to idling test. If it didn't start jumpered, test for 12 V on each brown, one should be "hot" with the key on. If neither is, check the FAN fuse...its in the auxiliary fuse panel forward and to the right of the main fuse box...says FUSE on the housing. Its a 10 amp spade, replace and retest at the thermoswitch. If one wire is hot and fan doesn't start jumpered test the motor itself and the ground from the motor. Once operational, proceed to idling test.
  22. Neil86
    Is the neutral light working or are you losing it with the gear indication?
  23. Neil86
    I think you're saying the running light is not on the front left but the turn signal still works? Check for socket corrosion...very common especially on 2nd gens that have the passing lights installed and the turn signals installed upside down making a water trap.
  24. Neil86
    Mike, actually when the switch is grounded, the ignition is on and the CMS icon is off...lower the stand, the switch opens, ignition kills and the CMS alarms. There is 3 wires for the switch, one from CMS, one from sidestand relay, one ground....often the switch is bypassed by splicing the 3 wires together. The problem you had before with the stand switch not shutting down the ignition is more than likely a sidestand relay problem, thats the part that actually kills the ignition.
  25. Neil86
    Does the vacuum rise to normal and stabilize off idle, or stays low as you bring the rpm up? Ignition timing looks ok? Vacuum poor even when engine cold?
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