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Neil86

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  1. Neil86
    Ventures use a TCI (transistor control ignition) where you have 12V power going to the primary side of ignition coil, and a ground going back to the igniter (ignition black box). You have current flowing back to the igniter, when the igniter needs to fire the spark plug, it opens the ground connection, collapsing the primary field, this causes the secondary (hi voltage windings) to fire the spark plug. On a CDI (capacitator discharge ignition) the coils do not ground back to the black box....the black box sends a voltage pulse to a coil to fire the plug, and the coil boosts the voltage. Usually a CDI coil has only 1 primary wire, while a TCI has 2 wires on the primary. The CDI black box can send up to 250+V to the coil...so be careful when working around a system with CDI.
  2. Neil86
    I think you will find the 83 uses "ported vacuum" to operate the pressure (boost) sensor. In other words, the vacuum is tapped ABOVE the throttle plate, therefore it will be minimal at idle. Pretty common on auto carbs. http://autorepair.about.com/library/glossary/bldef-626.htm Hook up a vacuum gauge/manometer to the port and raise the rpm....see if it starts showing vacuum with plates opened up abit. As for the power issue.....if you still have the YICS chambers operational, perform a vacuum test on the hoses and chambers.....they tend to crack apart due to heat and vibration and cause vacuum leaks, poor performance (leans out carbs).
  3. Neil86
    Andrew... The clutch switch sticking is mainly due to crud externally on the plunger....you shouldn't need a new one, if it extends freely now. I'll email you a procedure on the gear indication issue.
  4. Neil86
    If your clutch lever has freeplay....remove plastic guard and the pivot bolt....you'll see a round brass bushing sitting in the lever that activates the master cylinder pushrod. If the bushing isn't greased, it wears out, causing lever freeplay. New bushing about $5 from Yamaha.
  5. Neil86
    Jason....the standard Venture was available from 1983-1988 inclusive. I have an 86 standard...stored elsewhere so can't check material for you.
  6. Neil86
    Its very common as Ventures rack up miles, for the brass pin ("neutral point") that rotates across the gear indication switch to wear out. So....to start the bike...it has to be in neutral...(indication failing) or in gear with side stand up and clutch pulled in. Since you tried this and it wouldn't crank, and you tested side stand switch and its good, whats left... The clutch switch. The switch is a plunger that extends out when the lever is pulled in and moves away from the switch. All winter your bike has sat with the switch plunger depressed, so its quite possible its stuck "in". With the bike cold...neutral indication working, try starting bike....if its ok, with sidestand up place it in gear...still running...great. Now with clutch still in shut off and try a restart in gear. If it won't crank.....the clutch switch is probably at fault. Remve the plastic guard over lever pivot, pull in clutch and you'll see the plunger I'm referring to....work it with a flat blade to get it to pop out, and clean it up with WD-40.
  7. Neil86
    There should be a mark on the valve body that the plug rotates in...don't have my bike handy to verify...but by the looks of the manual its at the 2 o'clock position as you look at end of valve. You line up the OFF or ON with the mark.... I seem to recall its a dot on the valve body.
  8. Neil86
    If the battery charged with the key off.....the cigarette lighter is probably wired direct to battery. The headlight should go off when cranking a 1st gen (83-93) Venture. Try freeing up the button as mentioned above... If that doesn't fix it...the headlight fuse has a brown wire on one side, red/yellow on the other end and is 10 Amp. Check voltage on the red/yellow side with key on...if you have battery voltage, fuse is fine. Also look for corrosion on the fuse clips...they tend to oxidize, heat up and lose tension.
  9. Neil86
    The brake light is on the Signal fuse. They do use a brake light relay but the power supply to it and the brake switches that trigger it are all powered from the Signal fuse. I'd inspect the wiring again on the new light...usually the last thing altered is the first thing to check.
  10. Neil86
    If you do the swap, you may want to consider (if you are running stock 83-85 pipes) putting the extension tips from the 86-93 mufflers on....otherwise the exhaust may impinge on the bottom of the longer saddlebags.
  11. Neil86
    I think you are dealing with the electric antidive relay (EAND). When the brakes are applied this relay sends power to the solenoids at the bottom of the front forks to reduce dive. The relay should have 4 wires....Yellow, Black, Brown, White....if my wiring diagram is correct. If you temporarily remove the relay do the brakelights work okay? My diagram shows that power from the brake switches branches off to power the coil in the EAND relay....so if the relay draws too much it could reduce voltage to CMS brakelight input, and affect brakelights.. Looking at the parts fiches....it appears this relay might be item #19 on the Handle Switch Lever fiche. The online stores don't show a part number for #19 (usually meaning no longer available)...on Yamaha's website item #19 is 25G-81950-01-00 Relay Assembly....but I'd check with the dealer. This is the same part number as #12 on Electrical 1 fiche which is listed on line at $31.30
  12. Neil86
    The speedometer needle has no direct mechanical connection to the odometer. The cable drives a worm gear to drive the odometer, and spins a magnet that sits inside a "bowl" to which the speedometer needle is attached......so its magnetic force that causes the needle to move, with a spring on the needle to bring it back down to zero. Ensure nothing is interfering with the needle movement.....you can rotate the "bowl" and should see the needle react. Once you have freed it up, if you rotate the cable CCW where it enters the speedometer housing you can check operation prior to reinstalling the dash.
  13. Neil86
    Mike as you know, Yamaha dropped YICS on the 86 1300 redesign. From what I recall the idea is the chamber "fills" when the intake valve closes, and "empties" when it reopens to create a swirl on the intake charge. I guess the only fair comparison would be a known good YICS hooked up and unhooked on the same bike. Even getting a good leak test requires duplicating running conditions.........engine heat and vibration while testing the vacuum in case theres a split that opens as the chamber flexs.
  14. Neil86
    Another issue with 83-85 Ventures are leaks on the YICS chambers causing vacuum leaks and leaning out fuel mixture to cylinders. Some have just abandoned the YICS in place and capped the intake runner ports. You could try this and then later vacuum test YICS chambers to pinpoint leaks. They tend to leak on the seams of the plastic chambers.
  15. Neil86
    Brian.....the 83-85 Ventures had a plastic dipstick in the toolkit, the plug has nothing attached to it. The 86-93 gearcase did away with needing a dipstick altogether.
  16. Neil86
    Jeremy... according to the curves...48 deg BTDC is the maximum advance.....I would question how much vacuum you pull at speed, on the road. Yes the vacuum rises when you increase rpm at rest...but you are at very low load....so if you can bring the TCI input down at road load it should increase advance. It would be interesting to be able to monitor the sensor voltage output under riding conditions.
  17. Neil86
    Yup I have a spare sensor and coil rack too...did you notice that Hitachi built it....Boost sensor is Hitachi's name..(its probably used on several applications, not just Yamaha). Look in the service manuals and parts diagrams, Yamaha always calls it the pressure sensor. I'm not suggesting massive synch offset....any increased vacuum will help...since you are advancing timing on all 4 cylinders. This was just a suggestion to 5 bikes without getting into something hard to undo. At the lower speeds (3000 rpm)1" vacuum changes timing 2 degrees. Thats part of the reason synching makes so much difference...if your reference intake (usually #2) is running low compared to the others, you have the double hit of carb unbalance plus delayed ignition advance.
  18. Neil86
    First of all....Yamaha does not refer to the sensor as a Boost Sensor....its a Pressure Sensor...as in SENSOR, PRESSURE 22N-82380-10-00 (from parts list). So if its measuring the "vacuum" as absolute pressure, the curve in the elec specs is correct....low abs pressure, high vacuum, light load, more advance.....high absolute pressure, low vacuum, high load, less advance. Want more advance?...synch your carbs so one runs slightly higher on vacuum and use it as the sensor input.
  19. Neil86
    I H Guy....heres a thread covering the R1 swap.. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27170
  20. Neil86
    You probably got them a lot closer than they were...nothing beats being able to observe all 4 intake vacuum readings at the same time.....due to the mechanical linkage inside a guage consistency even using one gauge is a problem. Did you find extremely high vacuum on one carb when you started?
  21. Neil86
    The simplest way to check the interlocks is with the connector unhooked at TCI and key on...test for continuity in the black/white wire to ground. If there is no continuity, interlocks are in run state. If there is continuity, the interlocks are shutting down the TCI control.
  22. Neil86
    Unhook the connector and test to see you are getting voltage from the resistor end.
  23. Neil86
    Sooty on all 4? Watch the "choke" plungers on each carb as the lever is rotated.....all moving out and back in?
  24. Neil86
    How is the modulator wired in? If its on the low beam side...temporarily unhook it.
  25. Neil86
    So you are certain the installed pressure sensor has no leak and is advancing the timing? Its firing on all 4 cyls.......exhaust hot (temp gun or fog water) on each cyl.? The carb slides are all active? Did you try carb synch....and observing vacuum on all 4 over the rpm range? Front and rear wheel spin freely on mainstand before and after a ride?
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