Neil86

yes....green is right...chocolate is left I believe.

Chris... as mentioned....the Hazard switch (just to right of key area) needs to be in OFF position as power feeds through that switch to prevent trying to use hazard and turn signals same time. The lights on front are running lights/turn signals...so 2 filaments...and will be lit with key on. The rear are turn signal only.

I think once you get the interlock circuit "cleaned up" it will sort out the igniter and discrepancy in the tachometer test readings you found.

you have an email Mrvet....

Yes I'm saying check over that the interlocks are doing what they should. You'll need the manual to go through the checks....since the Royal Stars were different than the 1st & 2nd Gen Ventures. Stuff like the sidestand relay (not just the sidestand switch), the tip over switch (if they even have one...) looking at the wiring diagram should show you exactly what affects the Igniter operation. I'm guessing that a lot of your troubleshooting was done with the bike running on the sidestand so even stuff like whether you have a good neutral switch path might have an effect.

Yes you need for the Black/White wire in the smaller plug to be open (no ground) for the TCi to operate. Have you checked for battery voltage on the Red/Black & the Black on the bigger plug (key ON, kill switch in RUN position).

Before condemning the igniter....have you tested all ignition interlocks in case one is trying to shutdown igniter? ie Sidestand relay, tipover switch. Not sure on the 97 TD, but on the RSV the interlock circuit goes through a set of contacts in the ignition switch too.

You could also unhook the connector for the switch...under left side panel and test down to switch. The switch grounds each of the 6 wires (N+1-5) one at a time as you shift...so test for continuity ie one probe on wire, one on a good ground with bike on mainstand. You can test the dash indication by grounding the other side of unhooked connector. The skyblue wire is for neutral. edit.. If you decide to go in and clean the switch, might as well replace the pin and spring, about $5.

There is a tip over switch however it only disables the ignition firing once the bike leans over too far, does not affect starter operation. The 1st Gen is designed with a couple interlocks... - if the sidestand is down, it will only crank the starter if it detects its in neutral. (when you lose neutral indication it prevents starter cranking). -if the sidestand is up, it will crank in neutral (if it detects it) or in gear but only if the clutch lever is pulled in....(there is a switch on the lever). The clutch switch allows restarting when stalling the bike so you don't have to return to neutral. If the bike isn't cranking when in gear (sidestand up) chances are the clutch switch plunger is sticking...it pops out when lever is pulled in. The gear position indication both the CMS and the neutral light work from a gear position switch behind the middle gear case cover. Since the situation improves by leaning bike over, it may be the contact pin is worn out and needs to lean against the switch. This thread discusses the switch ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27630 I think since the thread was written the indicator switch is no longer available new....typically the contact pin is the highest wear item.

email me your number and I'll phone you

check your email

Try this.....even though its in neutral, pull in clutch lever and try starter button.

you need power on both R/W at the relay to be able to crank.

sending a PM to you

Are you getting battery voltage on both R/W wires to the Kill switch....or just on one.

okay...key on....in neutral test both R/W wires at relay with it plugged in...should both have battery voltage.

But is the battery voltage normal?

No, CMS shouldn't affect cranking, however just a guess.....since fixing CMS and you now show 9 V at headlight with key on....it should be close to battery voltage...might test your battery voltage....it might be only ~ 9 V there too. Doubt it will crank at that low of voltage. If battery is normal ~12.6 V...possibly when pulling dash out the starting circuit cutoff relay was disturbed....on an 83 should have 4 wires...2 Red/White, 1 Black/yellow, 1 Skyblue. It'll be up there with all the other relays above headlight.

The device that actually shuts down the ignition is the sidestand relay, which the sidestand switch triggers. You might first try unplugging the sidestand switch, then starting the bike (will have to be in neutral to crank). Once running with switch unplugged, drop it into gear.... if the rpm still does the 500 rpm drop its likely in the sidestand relay, if the engine dies immediately now its probably in your sidestand switch or harness. The sidestand alarm on CMS will be on with the switch being unhooked during the test.

The tool holds 2 adjacent valves open at same time so you can swap those two, otherwise you will need a spare, and you probably would want a thin shim so it can be moved anywhere easily(ie a 260 or 262). A lot easier using a kit with a selection if you can access one.

I think there might be a simple explanation for what you encountered. The engine requires 2 full crankshaft revolutions to get the 4 cycles (intake-compression-power-exhaust). So for a particuliar cylinder ie #1, there are 2 times its at TDC during the 4 cycles one is TDC compression when both intake and exhaust are closed one is at TDC exhaust (360 degrees later) when both slightly open...and you will have zero clearance. If you started at TDC #1 mark on the exhaust stroke and followed the rotations in the manual, you'd hit the TDC exhaust on the rest of the cylinders too. As you rotate crankshaft CCW, after intake valve on #1 cylinder (left rear) closes when the TDC 1 mark lines up, you'll be at TDC compression on that cylinder.

What if, with the spring on a workbench, insert a flat blade screwdriver (for leverage) between coils to insert the coins. Remove screwdriver ....install spring, remove coins.

If the fluid is dark......time for a change. Old fluid breaks down when it gets hot....so you lose pressure. Syringe out the old stuff from reservoir.....top up with new...and bleed slave till the clean new stuff with no air bubbles comes out bleeder.

I would look around for a vacuum leak... -carbs seated in the intake runners? -83-85 YICS chambers and hoses tested if still attached -leaking caps on synch ports -leaking hose to/or pressure sensor

With engine cold check the actual radiator fluid level....it has to be full for the overflow tank to operate correctly, the full rad overflows to the tank hot, siphons back cooling off so rad remains full. As mentioned ensure drain valve is in the off position. The weephole is on bottom side of waterpump at ~ 7 o'clock position as you face the cover of the pump.