Neil86

Can you try a RSV seat off a local bike to see if it fits....

Are there more than one wire/cable attached to the positive on this bike?

Yes, the caps face out on the 1st gen carbs....but on the RSV they are on the backside of the carb. Here is a picture of RSV carbs pulled out and upside down.....you'll see the cone shaped caps that cover the pilot screws (one directly above the allen wrench) http://www.venturerider.org/rsvcarbremoval/image116.jpg

Are you certain its firing all 4 cylinders?

Before going to extreme on the pilot screws do an inspection of the caps or hoses connected to the synch ports....if you tried using cheap caps theres a good chance they are cracked and leaking vacuum, causing the exhaust popping. Most 'jobber" caps can't tolerate the heat and deteriorate quickly.

Sorry to hear of the broken hip...that can be tough. It might be it was not fully shifted into gear and popped out under power. You might give the shiftage linkage an inspection, make sure the swivels rotated easily and grease if needed (some of the linkage is viewed from underneath the engine). Shifter pedal height adjustment could also be a factor, if the toe is set too low. Another thought....are you wearing footwear with a light sole as opposed to a boot. Sometimes a sole that flexes can cause poor shifter engagement.

When riding at speed and you tap the horn how high does your voltage hit after the 30 amp load disappears...you might be spiking the voltage to the bike until the voltage regulator catches it.

I would agree with testing ohms on the unhooked compressor from the + terminal to the body of the unit for a short. Carefully inspect your power in connection too....any possibility the + wire terminal is touching the compressor body?

Earlier on in the journey you reported using a tach (inductive?) and 2 cylinders were firing about 1/2 less than the other 2.....is that still happening.

No tags or anything on the compressor showing normal current rating?

I'm suggesting you may have a short on the compressor so the body is live when you relay sends power to it. A bolt through the bracket is your ground path.

Does your air compressor have a ground wire or does it ground at its mount. If it has a ground wire is the mount insulated from the frame in case of a short? Perhaps there is a short to the compressor body but your horn blasts were so brief before to not blow the fuse. You could test continuity from the power in wire to the mount to see if you have continuity (ie low ohms....short circuit)

From what I recall you have the 83.5 and a 85.....does the CLASS work on one of them? If so...try the repaired boards in a known working system....should tell you. Sometimes its the connector in the bike harness...inspect it...and try gently wiggling to see if you get the same codes.

I go more by the part numbers than the diagrams to tell things had changed...but yes guys, I concede they could be better.

They show the back view of the brush plate....thats why you can't count them. Also note you could buy brushes separate....on the 2 brush...the 4 brush you buy the complete plate and brush assembly. heres a front view... http://www.oldbikebarn.com/core/media/media.nl?id=2045&c=669440&h=4985e06efa2f221b22ed&resizeid=-2&resizeh=400&resizew=250

Maybe this will clarify things. The Yamaha Venture used a 2 brush starter from 1983-1990......so it used them on 1300's for 86-90 (my 86 has one). In 1991 the Venture went to a 4 brush starter to alleviate the hot cranking issues with the 2 brush unit. Eventually they exhausted the complete 2 brush starters stock so they changed the starter part number so if you ordered a new starter for any 83-93 you received the same 4 brush unit. The reason the parts diagrams show a 2 brush starter on the 83-90 listings is so folks with the original 2 brush units can still get the correct parts to repair them. The 91-93 parts show different internals for a 4 brush unit.

The important part is the voltage was tested down on the actual post...not on the cable end. A poor connection (dirty or "stacked" connections) can produce a excessive drop if tested on the cable end and not the post. Don't forget the negative cable either.

If they all test good...check the Main fuse and its connector, beside battery.

Since the cylinder was finally firing and burning all the residue fuel from the exhaust with the jumper on, possibly when you shut it off the jumper was disturbed?

Did you resolve the high resistance across the ignition switch?

Since there is no interconnection on the air between the front forks on an RSV, I would suspect your pump is leaking rather than both forks starting to leak air at same time.

John... did they have any explanation for the noise you have been hearing?

Heres just the fender rails http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-Yamaha-Royal-Star-Venture-Rear-Fender-Rails-Saddlebag-Supports-S008613-110-/121239319727?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3a6d34af#ht_820wt_1001

Yes on the bigger plug with key on and engine NOT rotating you will have battery voltage on 5 of the wires 4 wires are from the coils (Orange, Yellow, Gray, White) 1 is power supply to TCI (Red/Black) The TCI ground is the Black on the larger plug. You should be able to test all 5 wires above versus that Black and get your readings....if the black is not grounding the TCI will not operate. The black on the smaller plug is only for pickup coil.

All Ventures use the same shims...same part numbers in Yamaha's parts book.