Neil86

The stock headlight fuse should be a 10 amp......so might have to get a heavier fuseholder with wires for that amperage.

I'm just glad you didn't tear out the slave cylinder for no reason. I hope you enjoy your new to you ride!

Mike.... long shot but even though its in neutral....try it with kickstand up in case something on the interlock circuit is trying to kill ignition.

Check the Backup fuse in the fuse box under the left side cover. You need it and the Audio fuse in the right cowling for audio to work....but backup is the easiest to check first.

I think you still want to find out why this was affecting your fuel pump.....

So presently where are the light green (Lg) and Blue/Red (L/R) wires connected....might help narrow down the issue. Is the headlight flickering on low beam at the same time?

I think the high beam indicator grounds back through the Reserve Lighting Unit...so something might be going on there.

Is the fuel pump stock or an aftermarket unit?

When you first turn the key on its normal for the fuel pump to cycle a few times then stop....without starting engine....when you then try the horn, the pump cycles everytime? If that is the case, you should retrace where your horn relay is getting power, both on the horn button side and the horn side. It might be tapped into the power to the fuel pump either wired that way a pinched harness shorting 2 wires together.

Its handy to be able to adjust suspension pressure out on the road though ....

Some have switched to the blade fuses....I think Skydoc_17 sells a kit in the classifieds on this site. edit....yeah Bongobob types faster...lol

okay....if bike still ran with no gauge power....check the signal fuse in the fuse box atop the battery. The fuse might be fine but the fuse clips are no longer grasping fuse end.

This thread should fix it up.... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22608

You might double check part number....to ensure thats the piece you want...

They are still available new from Yamaha... 26H-2837M-01-00 Panel, Console 2 the retail is around $87....online around $58. Might be a lot simpler than looking for good used ones.

This thread from the Delphi forum discusses doing the mod... http://forums.delphiforums.com/vrider/messages/?msg=3850.1 The rear is partway through the thread...

What p/n did he order? It appears the o ring is supplied as part of the coolant drain valve on the "Radiator hose" fiche. You might contact Skydoc to see if he has just the o ring foir that connection.

Great looking bike Darrin!

Resistance readings need to be performed on wiring with no current flow (dead). The meter sends a small current down the circuit between the probes to determine resistance.

You might have a look in the fan shroud for the radiator...might be trapped in there between rad core and shroud.

Bob, you can have a short to ground and yet pass the unplugged AC V test with flying colors.

Fair enough.

Were both sets of readings to ground ie 1-ground 2-ground 3-ground and at what meter range setting

Buddy... if you had the stator unplugged and tested the windings to ground and got a low resistance the stator is shorted. Not sure if the ohms test High was that one? Use the stator case for the ground point. You should have a low resistance 1-2, 2-3, 1-3 (say 0.3 ohms) and high resistance ie OL on 1-ground, 2- ground 3-ground.

The pinion bearing also sits above the oil level in the sump and gets its oil from the crown gear carrying oil as it rotates, and some of the pinion bearing oil flows through the hole in the coupler to lubricate the splines. In the service bulletin about greasing the 83-85 rear splines due to the ineffective zerk it mentions that 86-up splines are lubricated by gear oil and require no greasing.