Neil86

There is a new one on ebay right now..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-NUETRAL-SWICTH-ASSEMBLY-PART-41R-82540-01-00-/231234886957?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d6ac5d2d&vxp=mtr or try the online places that still show the part available....it might take a few days to find out they can't either....

I guess its working now...thats the main thing.

Is there a voltage drop between CMS black and battery negative?

Just a guess....but I would double check the ground at the CMS.....perhaps it was somehow trying to ground through the tail light circuit and when you had the LEDs reversed your ground path was blocked.

Yes the total current actually flows through the CMU board....this is the input and output terminals for headlight, brake, tail light. The front running lights are powered before the CMS tailight input...so the PO was using that section for the added lights. If there is power coming in but insufficient current flow out it triggers a bulb failure alarm. You already checked the brown wire into CMS for battery voltage versus the black ground wire? Not sure about these cheap inline fuse holders you found, thinking this is a PO mod....can you check the power side of fuse to find where its tapped into?

Is the rest of the dash working.....neutral light, clock etc? Probably the safest way to do extra lights would be to just use a relay triggered off the tailight wiring with power from the battery.

Even though Yamaha denotes its disconnected it means the igniter cannot ground through it....and most interlocks if they are partially failing can affect the ignition. There is a reason that engine light is blinking the code....could be bad connection on the black/white at the igniter connector....or at the tipover or the switch itself.

The flashing code is telling you the Emergency Stop switch (aka tipover switch) is disconnected....you need a good ground through the switch for ignition to operate. I think the switch is located by removing fuel tank and the plastic cover on riders right side of steering neck. Should be a 2 wire switch...black/white and a black.

What I'm saying is the tach should be matching the road speed in what ever gear you are running (clutch engaged and not slipping). If you are seeing rpm drops and rises at same road speed your TCI may have issues. (tach measures firing cycles on the #2 coil)

Is the tach reading actually bouncing more than road speed?

I think Rivco no longer makes the adapter, and yes different thread on the two units.

Where is the AIS plugged...right at the exhaust ports? There were a bunch of Ventures around 2005 that had cracks on the exhaust at the Y joint where front and rear join.

For those with a 1st gen... On my 86...I still have the original keys.....there is a number stamped on the key shank just below the black plastic head, that I believe is the key code.... An A followed by 5 digits.....

The orifice in the vent elbow on the tank is veeeeeeeeery small...takes very little to plug it. You might unhook hose and also blow down the vent hose to ground to make sure the rollover valve isn't stuck closed.

I would think they are set using an EGA (exhaust gas analyser) and not all exactly the same.

The last gasp of BSA/Triumph before the CB750 rolled out a few months later...

I thought in the late 60's the British triples were the BSA Rocket 3 and the Triumph Trident yet the picture shows a Triumph tank and Rocket 3 side covers.

One issue that is common on older Ventures are vacuum leaks on the YICS chambers....used on 83-85 the plastic chambers that sit above the front cylinder head. Are yours still in service (connected to intake ports) and if so have you ever tested each hose and chamber for a vacuum leak (using a MityVac etc).

What rear end ratio does the trike have Bob?

Russ... how long had the bike sat when you pulled the clutch cover?

dang you're fast!

didn't go all the way back...maybe a repeat... who says you can't have your cake and eat it too....

ok...

I'll guess a 2005 Honda CBR900 Cobra prototype....

I had to drill the bolt head off on one of them on my 99. I highly recommend any 2nd gen owner remove and lube the bolts now, rather than needing to access the main fuse on the road and stripping a bolthead with few tools.