Neil86

The reserve fuel odometer is supposed to be a separate total....and you should still be able to scroll through the other odometers using the select button....main, trip1, trip 2, reserve

Pretty sure mine (99) returns to trip reading a few minutes after fuel level is back to normal. According to service manual after 5 kms it should clear. Mine is a US bike, and the odometers for trip only go up to 999.9 miles before zeroing, so might not work for a season total.

Does the tachometer appear to be reading correctly when this happens or is it dipping down and bouncing back up?

The relay has 4 wires 2 Red/White, Blue/Green. Blue. Red/whites are power into relay/relay coil Blue is power out to fan motor Blue/Green is from relay coil to thermoswitch. If the thermoswitch is still hooked up maybe just try grounding the wire there to see if the fan runs.

Can you post the wiring schematic?

A little too late to help...but the middle gear bearing retainer screws have a new part number. Some sites must not be fully updating so the old part shows not available but they don't show superceded. 90149-08013-00 (replaces 90149-08152-00) was found on a few sites.

You could test for voltage cycling at socket with left turn signal on.....try using an alternate known good ground. If good there...retest using socket ground....should pinpoint if problem is on power side or ground side.

Submersible pump motors are designed to be in water.....

The voltage is dropping pushing starter button but returns to normal releasing button? Or it stays down. Okay...just read the parallel battery......disconnect one, test both.

The p/n for the power amp for a 2007 is 4XY-88132-01-00 AMP. POWER Look at the sticker on the "Radio" Pinwall is selling....its the same unit. If your friend wants to go to the dealer and ask to see his old amp...compare to picture. Personally I would hate to buy a new $1400 unit and find out something else on the bike fried it.

Are these voltages at the battery posts or the dash voltmeter?

Yes its the crankcase breather AKA crankcase vent. Sometimes seeing spark in difficult in daylight...since you can't see it even when its running normally, we'll have to assume there was spark again during the repair list. Hope you have a smooth trip!

Aren't they numbered(1-4) on sheath at least at junction end?

It sounds like a fault in the interlock circuits (sidestand relay or starting circuit cutoff relay) due to the timing of the event and that it runs fine in neutral. So this fuse is for FI only...or its the ignition fuse thats blowing?

Even though you redid fuse box....with key on, verify you have battery voltage on the wire on the load side of the Ignition fuse. What exactly do you mean that pushing starter button is draining battery?

Its been a long time since I had a mirror off my 86, but isn't there a tension adjustment for the swivel on the underside of the mount....

Sounds like the crankcase vent hose has the kink. Could allow the crankcase to pressure up if its severe restriction. Regarding the spark situation well its great it started but if nothing was changed since the last time you verified no spark, I think it'll be back to pester you.

Maybe test resistance to sender at unhooked connector on CMS....in case theres a bad wire in betwixt.

Another test might be to fab up a jumper wire with a 160-180 ohm resistor and connect it in place of the sender.....does the CMS indication remain steady around 1/2 tank...if so its in the sender...if not theres issues at CMS end. Even though full the resistance is 30 ohms I don't recommend jumpering with no resistor it might not hurt anything, but rather play it safe.

how did you clean the filters....

There will be an external connector for the pickup coil (a 2 wire) and then the main plug at the igniter. No need to break open the stator cover for testing. According to wiring schematic the 2 wire connector has 2 wires Gray & a Black on pickup coil side of plug...on igniter side they are White/Red and a Black/Blue wires going to a 8 wire plug on the igniter.

Maybe alignment of point set was bad from build...rather than the whole surface area of point face delivering current it was arcing across. Just seems odd that a relatively similiar design on the 1st gen gave great service.

Any chance the failures are from running out of fuel....pump cycles way faster with no fluid to move....points bouncing. Lots of early RSVs on original pump. This high failure issue started around 2005. Maybe design tweak made them weaker on the point assembly.

You probably want to test the resistance on the pickup coil. It is mounted in the stator cover and signals crankshaft position to the igniter. Unhook connector and test resistance between the 2 wires down to the coil. (Gray & Black) Should be around 189-231 ohms.

If the neutral light is working consistently, chances are the switch is fine and the issue is in the starting circuit cutoff relay circuit. You would be wise to go to the connector for the SCCR and test the sky blue wire down to neutral switch for continuity to ground when in neutral....if its good, the relay is suspect. If the neutral light isn't working...yes testing the switch is a good move.