Neil86

It might be simpler to go to the Igniter....do you have the White/Red and the Black/Blue.... tech between them with Igniter unplugged.

Its a gray and a black from pickup coil up to the connector, other side of connector is white/red and a black/blue. You could test at the igniter harness....on the W/R and B/L wires too.

My wiring diagram shows it as a gray and a black.

Ensure you are testing on the side of the connector going down to the coil, not the other half going to the Igniter box (Dyna 3000/stock unit whatever)

As part of the design on Ventures...the fuel pump will only cycle for a few seconds with the engine not rotating (or detected**). This allows for refilling of the carbs before cranking but prevents a major fuel loss from a leak. If you had the pump discharge routed to a catch can, the pump will only run a few seconds with key on and then stop, if no engine rotation is detected. If you cycle the kill switch off and back on, it should repeat this short pumping time. If the discharge hose is connected to the carbs, as they fill up and needle valves close off the pump will slow down and stop. If the carbs are full the pump will not cycle. The pickup coil detects crank position and sends a signal to the Igniter so the ignition can be timed to occur at the proper crank position. If the pickup coil is not working, rotation is not sensed and ignition will not occur, and the fuel pump will not operate either. I would test the pickup coil first.

You can measure the resistance of the speed sensor....its a reed switch that opens and closes as the speedometer head rotates past. Best bet is to test the wires at the cruise control unit to make sure its present there, not just at the sensor. Are you noticing if the self cancelling turn signals do not cancel while riding...they use the same sensor to calculate when to cancel.

The valve faces don't get oil lubrication, deal with combustion products etc.

Not sure if you have the carbs out on the bench now...or on the bike still....can you get some penetrant like PB blaster into the "well" the screw is in to allow it to flow down the threads?

I would think it takes very little vacuum to move actuator with cable unhooked, versus connected and opening throttles. You want to make sure the actuator holds vacuum first, then check what the pump is capable of drawing for vacuum.

Have you tried testing the actuator using a Mityvac....to ensure it can move full travel? Do it with cable connected to see it can open the throttle plates. If thats good maybe rig in a vacuum gauge to the pump to see how much vacuum it can produce.

Did you notice whether the oil deflection washer was sitting the correct direction? The lip should face towards rotor bolt.

Yes, basically decide if you can live with it as it is..... if however you want a full featured RSV, trunk, CB, passenger audio controls etc, and painted to match the bike you will soon be into it for more money than others with lower miles.

Yes the cruise measures speed at the speedometer, so that explains the likely culprit. You might want to add some grease to the speedometer head where the cable rotates.. often the squeal is there. If not lubricated soon the speedometer will fail. This thread covers that issue... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36254

Semi Retired. on the old pushrod valvetrains there was wear occuring at several spots. With the Venture valvetrain you have the cam lobe directly acting on a shim on the bucket that covers the valve stem. My 86 has 190,000 kms on it and the valvetrain looks like new. So there is minimal wear increasing clearance...the issue is with no more lead in fuels, the valve slowly wears itself into the head as it seats, moving the the stem further up, closer to the cam lobe, reducing clearance.

Maybe raise rear wheel off ground......rotate tire by handle to locate noise. Unbolt caliper and lift off rotor and rotate wheel again to ensure the caliper isn't the issue. Inspect pads for wear of course while you have it off.

I think most of the original service manuals for the RSV had the synch screw location mixed up. It should be... The screw accessed from left side is actually for the left to right balance The screw waaaay back in accessed from the right is the 1-2 synch The screw closest to right side is the 3-4 synch.

Whistler...you have a PM

Is it still under the 5 year warranty....might see if Yamaha will cough up a new trunk frame.

Dan... do you have a voltmeter wired in to monitor voltage riding? No sign that the harness plug at RR has been hot?

Probably a good start would be inspecting the vacuum actuator and cable to the throttle junction box. Maybe sticky so it keeps ramping up vacuum and finally gets a jump in the actuator movement. Ensure cable is lubricated and apply a vacuum (Mityvac) and check for smooth movement.

Were all the battery voltage tests done right on the battery posts?

Its a safety feature.....if no crank rotation is sensed, it stops the pump after a few seconds, to prevent a fuel leak from continuing. The logic being if the engine isn't running its not using fuel.

The 2nd gen RR senses the voltage at the regulator similiar to the later 1st gen units without the brown wire. I think you still have an issue on this bike. Are the harness plug terminals in good shape...thats a weak spot on the 2nd gen RR.

I think he already had it started Brian...

I think since the pump point set can be replaced, rebuilding the OEM is a better path. Most owners don't shut off the fuel petcock every time.