Neil86

While the engine is barely running....check for voltage between blue/black and the black wires at the fuel pump connector. Once the bike stalls you will lose power to the pump.

here you go http://www.venturerider.org/modules/history/index.php

They didn't make a full on touring bike for those 5 years. In 1996 they started the Royal Star line of cruisers using a detuned version of the V4, finally in 1999 Yamaha brought back the Venture as a Royal Star model...thus 2nd Generation of the Venture.

When you run on high beam only that filament is used, when you run on low beam only that filament is used.

The load on the ACC position of the switch is much less than in the ON position. So a poor connection on battery or main fuse will be able to power the ACC load but not the added load in the ON position. If battery terminal connections are cleaned and you still have the problem in the ON position, test voltage at battery cable, main fuse outlet, if they are at normal battery voltage... then test the signal fuse, ignition fuse on the brown wires feeding them from ignition switch...if low voltage versus main fuse, there may be an ignition switch connection issue.

As you found out, its a good plan for the engine to be totally cool before removing the fins, as any coolant system pressure will blow out the plug once cover is lifted away from the plug.

Maybe post a picture of the lower cowl you are trying to install.

When asking for parts....be careful how you word it. I need to know where to get individual Gaskets as specifically for the rear jug as it pertains to the leaky valve seals. Valve seals go on the valve stems.....you are probably fixing an external oil leak from the valve cover....so looking for a valve cover gasket AKA head cover gasket. Your best bet is dealing with Skydoc_17, MiCarl etc...making sure they clearly know what you what.

Yes very likely.

All mine has is the AIS for the exhaust...nothing for tank or float bowl vapour recovery. Make sure the vent hoses go to "still" air...so carb bowl is at atmospheric pressure.

Condor.... On my 49 state 99 (I imported it to Canada) the left bowl vents tee together, the right bowl vents tee together and the 2 hoses run forward to the lower cowling (fwd of air box) on each side to disperse the fumes.

The plates with the "pins" just bolt on, so if the area around them isn't cracked out you can replace them with used. You'll want to check out why the mount lock allow the bag to come off. The backside of the bag has a support that rests on a rail...support is visible but is the rail there on the bike? It just looks like the bag was flexing on the pins till they broke. Even if you go with another bag, as long as you can open the original bag, you can remove the locks and transfer over to another, no need to re key locks.

Examine the breather cover (oblong twinkie shape)that sits atop the crankcase, between the cylinders. There are 3 fittings on top... a steel line (hi pressure oil) a smaller hose (coolant) a larger hose (crankcase vent to airbox). Are they all in place? Is the crankcase vent connected to airbox? Also with bike on mainstand, check oil level (window down below brake pedal on crankcase) oil level should be about 1/2 full with engine off after running a few minutes. If the glass is right full, chances are the engine is overfull with oil and carrying oil up the breather hose.

So the Engine run switch (kill switch) is in the Run position?

Check for any vacuum leaks around carbs and intake...probably more sensitive to extra air at idle and cold.

No, the 2nd gen uses carbs and a fuel pump too.

Sometimes hammering is from vapour bubbles in the fuel.....no issues on the suction line leaking air?

The cooling kit consists mainly of a rotor (the spinning magnet around stator) bolt that is drilled out and behind the emblem plate (on a 1200 its says YICS) a washer sits with a lip facing in towards rotor bolt. Oil sprays out of rotor bolt hole into cover and the washer redirects it back over the stator windings.

Just a suggestion....pulling a plug wire off can drive the coil voltage up to the point it will find another ground through a weak spot (insulation, or worse yet back into igniter).

I replied in the other thread you posted on..... You might want to focus on one problem in a thread, rather than trying to cover everything from carb synch to engine overhaul.

The 3 heavy white wires under the riders left side cover are the stator wires....you want to examine the connector (if still there) for overheating, then unplug and test on the 3 whites going down to the engine...the other side of the plug goes to the rectifier regulator.

Walnutz... okay manometers measure engine vacuum using columns of liquid. Alternate is carbtune or set of 4 vacuum gauges. Do you have any equipment for measuring vacuum on 4 individual carbs. Regarding oil leak on rear cylinder....if its from the valve cover its a pretty common repair....the gasket edges crack with heat and age and seep.

Walnutz.... You don't mention if you have any tools for synching the carbs....but if you do or have access to a set of manometers or the Carb Tune, this tech article walks you through the procedure. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56723

I use my Canadian bank card at ATMs in the US to get currency....probably get charged couple dollars per transaction, but don't have to worry about getting to a bank during business hours. Typically the lodging I put on the credit card.

DJH3 No...I'd want to be sure the fuel pump control circuit isn't dropping out at lower idle speeds.