wrscomncents

I would appreciate a little help here from those who have worked on there carburetors. My bike is a 1999 RSV. I had the carbs off the bike to rebuild them and thought everything was good when I put them back on. The bike fired right up. I was soon to find out that neither of the front two cylinders were firing. I checked for spark and was getting spark on both cylinders. When I pulled the plugs (which were new) the insulators on both plugs were pure white except for where the spark was occurring. Long story short I pulled the carbs back off. My question is how can I tell if I am getting gas from the bowls. I don't think that there is an accelerator pump on these carbs (could be wrong) so do I have to pressurize the carbs in order to tell if I am getting fuel from the bowls. Thanks.

Thanks cowpuc. Appreciate the link.

cowpuc I wouldn't mind going with a wet cell but doing a search for batteries it seems almost impossible to find one. Seems most everything is sealed now.

Thanks for all the feedback guys. Really helps to give me a good starting point.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll look into that one.

Not really sure. I'm seeing batteries priced between $37.00 and well over $100.00. Just thought someone may have some past experience. This bike is new to me.

Looking to buy a new battery and finding a huge difference in pricing. I have to believe that more expensive is probably better but at the same time I don't want to over pay. Anyone have a recommendation on a good battery for a decent price?

Yeah that's what I'm thinking also. Well I guess it saves me the cost of a timing light. Thanks.

Maybe someone can help me with this. While going through my checklist of maintenance items while putting my bike back together I decided to look up the ignition timing procedure. I went to the manual and started reading the procedure. To my surprise at the end of the procedure I find out that the timing is not adjustable. So my question is, is it necessary to check the timing at all? Would checking the timing be more of a trouble shooting procedure? I currently do not have a timing light and really don't want to buy one if the timing cannot be adjusted anyway. Thanks.

Statussymbol Thanks for posting the photos. That is a huge difference from my original equipment headlight. Still trying to decide if I'm going to go with the dedicated LED's or just the bulb. Seeing these photos though it looks like a big improvement either way.

Thanks for the link.

Flyinfool I was thinking along those lines. Just curious if you have used one of the designed LED headlights? If so what your thoughts are?

Does anybody have any experience with different lighting such as the LED shown in this post compared to a new full LED headlight such as the one I linked to here. I'm thinking of changing mine out and would like to get some feedback from others who may have used different systems and their opinion on them. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks https://www.ebay.com/itm/162680341358?_trksid=p2380057.m570.l5999&_trkparms=gh1g%3DI162680341358.N36.S1.R2.TR3

Phishhead61 I have a 99 Venture Royale and mine were exactly like yours. There were no replaceable O rings. There is an oval seal on the bottom of the boot but it cannot be replaced. I also studied the diagram break down and it dose not show an O ring. There may be replaceable O rings on some of the other models but mine does not have them. I'm not sure about replacement boots, I'm pretty sure mine are the stock boots.

Midnight Could you reply back on what you think of this LED after you use it at night. I was thinking of switching out my headlight with a new full LED headlight but I like the cost of this better if it's a big improvement. Thanks

You were right. Just had to find the right angle. Got it out.

Okay I'll give another try. Just wanted to make sure I didn't break it. Thanks

So I am in the process of changing my fuel tank on my 1999 Venture. Everything was going fine until I tried to remove the fuel float from the bottom of the old tank. I removed the 4 screws from the float but I can't seem to get the float out. It releases from the tank but I can't seem to find any angle to remove it. I don't want to break anything so I thought I would see if anyone out there has done this procedure. I'm not sure if the float separates at some point to allow it to be removed. Thanks.

Thanks Ron, I think I am going to go with the 130. I have used Michelin tires on my previous bike and have had good performance. Appreciate the response.

Ron I am assuming you went to the 130 on the front since they no longer make the 150. I was wondering if that was a change from the 150 and how you liked it. I'm looking to replace my front tire and I'm torn between going with the 130 or the 150 after reading all the responses. If you did switch can you tell me if you noticed a big difference on the highway. Thanks '''

Appreciate the response. I guess that is what I will do. I am surprised though that there is no torque setting. Seems to be one for every other bolt and nut.

Squidley So glad I came across your post today. I recently pulled my carbs and carb boots for maintenance and I was sure that the vacuum line from the rear ran to the number three boot nipple. However the manual is showing it running to the number 4 boot nipple. I am attaching the diagram from the manual which shows line F running to carb joint 4. Since you agree and everything else I have seen (such as pictures I have found showing it attached to the number three) I am assuming that the manual is wrong or I am reading the diagram wrong. AIS.pdf

Okay. I'll try that. Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the link. I actually have that manual and also a Clymer manual. I can find the torque settings for almost every part of this machine except the carb boots. I am talking about the hex head bolts that secure the carb boots (intake manifold boots) to the cylinders. There are two bolts on each boot. I am about to reinstall the carbs after rebuilding them. I also removed the boots to examine them for wear. I guess I could just tighten them down and let it go at that but I can't imagine there isn't a torque setting for those bolts. Maybe others can tell me how they tightened theirs down. I'm a little anal on torque specs. Thanks for the help.

Dave, you may want to try ebay. They have a variety of LED lights available.