wrscomncents

Looks like mine did not to long ago. Nice job! I got a lot of help here also. Great site and a lot of great people.

I believe I found the mounting holes under the light bar. Looking at the parts diagram it looks like the hole spacing is the same size as the brackets shown on the parts diagram.

Thanks Freebird. Saw your post right after I posted my last one. Yeah mine must have been removed because they aren't there along with the fork deflectors. Thanks for the response.

Okay so after examining the parts diagram it appears the fairing has to be split and the wind deflectors are screwed to the inside of the fairing. Guess I could have done that from the beginning but I was being a little lazy.

This is the wind deflector I am referring to.

I may take you up on that. Right now I am looking at the fairing deflectors but I would like to add the fork deflectors also. I'm not sure how the fork deflectors attach. Do you have all the hardware for them? I don't see anything on my bike that they would attach to. I have a set of fairing deflectors I can purchase but I didn't want to buy them until I know how they attach. The ones I'm looking at are the deflectors only.

I've been looking at attaching wind deflectors to the lower section of my fairing like I have seen on some other ventures. I've only seen them in pictures and I can't tell how they attach to the fairing. Could someone who has them attached to their bike tell me how they attach to the existing fairing? Do I need any other hardware besides the deflectors to attach them to the fairing? I have noticed that I get quite a bit of wind from under the fairing that comes right up into my chest. It's fine right now but I can see it as a problem when it gets cooler outside. Thanks. '

Found this review to be helpful.

Shadowhawk I replaced mine with the H4 type led bulb. I did a lot of research on that type of bulb and the one that came up with the best review was the GTR Ultra Series bulb. They are pricey but what a difference. The pictures don't really do it justice.

Just curious where you found the part number on the bolt. It's strange because the manual shows the bolt but I can't find it on the parts list. It shows the pin and washer but not the bolt.

No. All throttle positions were almost identical. I did put my carbtune back on after getting her running and it was very close. Minor adjustments.

Okay all that makes sense. The number 3 cylinder is fairly easy to get at. It's the number 4 that's difficult. I may try that if I know I won't be riding for a few days. I know that you stated not to rotate the engine with fluid above the piston while the plugs are in the heads but I am assuming that a 2 second shot would not harm anything. Thanks again

Steven, if you don't mind I would like to pick your brain just a bit more. Cylinders 1 and 2 are showing pretty close to the standard compression rating according to my manual. Cylinder 4 is very close. But as you can see cylinder 3 is pretty close to minimums according to the manual. The strange thing is cylinder 3 seemed to hold the deep creep more (longer) than the other three cylinders. Another words the deep creep seemed to drain from the 3 highest compression cylinders faster than the low compression cylinder. I found this odd. I would have thought that it would have been just the opposite. Any idea why this would occur? Also when I do this again at the end of the season would it be best to leave the deep creep in the cylinder for a longer period of time, say a week or more and just let it work its way into the rings? Thanks.

One other thing that I forgot to mention is I removed the pipe on the right side and thoroughly checked it for leaks. I thought that I had a leak towards the front of the pipe but I checked everything and could fin no leaks.

I wanted to give you guys a heads up on what is going on with my bike. I usually only get a day or two a week to work on it so it has taken a while to get it all done and back together. So the good news is it is back up and running with no backfire. The bad news is I'm not sure what the cause was because I did several things to it. First off I pulled the carbs again and checked them thoroughly. I really can't say that I saw anything wrong with them but who knows there may have been something small that I did not see and removed when re cleaning. I also double checked all the diaphragms and found no problem with them. I did find a screw on the number four diaphragm that was slightly stripped towards the end of the screw so it is possible that there may have been air leaking at that point like Sylvester suggested. I changed that screw to a slightly longer screw with a lock washer and it is now tight. So not sure what exactly was the cause but I'm happy as hell that it is fixed. The other thing that I did to the bike while I had the carbs off was to do the fogging procedure described by Steven G. I don't have the link to his post but if anyone wants to do this I'm sure you could find it here. I followed his instructions exactly and I have to say it made a big difference in the compression on this bike. I had taken readings before I had the bike apart and I listed them in a previous post but I will list them again for comparison. Before fogging compression was #1 210 #2 200 #3 150 #4 190 After fogging compression was #1 215 #2 215 #3 180 #4 210. As you can see the fogging really helped. The #3 cylinder is still low and I will probably perform this procedure again at the end of the season. At least to the #3 cylinder. I appreciate all the help and suggestions from everyone here. Thanks for taking the time to respond. Maybe I can help someone at some point also. I'm starting to learn a lot about this bike since I've had to basically tear it apart and rebuild it. Thanks again.

Alright guys I've picked a lot of brains here and gotten a lot of great input. Now its time for me to put it to use. I'm going to pull the bike apart this weekend and see what I can find. Thanks to everyone for all the advise. I'll let you all know what happens when I figure it out. Thanks again.

Freebird is right Michelin makes the the 130 for the front tire. That is what I'm currently running and I like it. Some don't. I'm a little biased toward Michelin. I had a valve stem blow off on my 1100 doing about 70 on the highway. The bike fish tailed almost 90 degrees to both sides and the bead never broke from the tire. Thought sure I was going down. The sidewall on that tire was so thick that after I was able to get off to the side of the road I was then able to sit up on the tank and ride the bike home. No damage to the tire. Maybe another tire would have done the same but it kinda sold me on Michelin.

Okay I will. I wish I could just swap it out but in order to remove that plug I have to remove the motor mount which means I have to remove the tank. But I will try swapping it out and firing it up before I start pulling everything else apart. Just to be sure.

Yes the way I determined number 4 was not firing was a cold pipe which I determined by spraying water on it. I am planning on picking up a digital thermometer after I pull the carbs again. I know I am getting good spark on all cylinders, I have checked this more then once. When I turn the fuel mixture screw in on number 4 removing fuel from the system the backfire stops. Of course that cylinder stops firing also. As I turn it back out it will begin to backfire at about 3/4 of a turn and get progressively worse as I turn farther out. I will not be able to work on it until Saturday. I intend to pull the carbs, pull the right pipe and see if I can find that hole and also do the fogging. I need to find a place that has the deep creep.

No it did not backfire when I first rode it. It also did not backfire after I put it back together after rebuilding the carbs. But I am not sure that the number 4 cylinder was firing when I first got the bike either. I'm guessing it wasn't. The backfire started after I pulled the carbs for the second time. The reason I pulled them the second time was because the number 4 cylinder was not firing. I am assuming that there was no backfire because there was no fuel getting to that cylinder until I replaced the carbs the second time. I didn't really notice how many rotations occurred to get to max but I don't believe it took a whole lot. Seemed to max out pretty quick on all cylinders. As far as the plugs they are all new and all gaped.

Yes it was a lot of work but a great learning experience. Like I said I believe the bike had been sitting for some time. It actually ran when I first got it but the carbs started to leak pretty badly after a little riding and it also needed tires. Although the brakes weren't super bad I did them anyway along with changing all the fluids. I decided to just pull it apart and replace anything that needed replacing. It was awesome getting it on the road and riding it until I found out the number 4 cylinder was not firing. Even on three it has mega power. Can't wait to get it running on all four.

Appreciate the offer. I am curious about the colortune though. How do you like that tool? I have read good and bad things about them. I would certainly be willing to buy one if they really do work.

Patch That is the same manual that I have along with a Clymer manual. Just glancing through the pictures in the carb link it looks like basically the same thing that I did but I will go through it more thoroughly when I have time. I have not done anything with the AIS system but I will look closer at that link also. I did blow air through all of the passages and also soaked the carbs. Apparently it worked for at least three of the carbs because they seem to be working fine. I have to say that the carbs were a mess when I first got the bike, very dirty and leaking badly. I intend to pull them again as soon as I can. I have not swapped out the plug yet. Thanks again.