cptriker1

I've been gone for sometime from the board but just today fixed an issue and wanted to make a post. When driving I was showing 12V and when I used the brake it'd drop to 8V! In the past I had an issue with the wire at the fuse box but a check showed that wasn't the case. A voltage check showed 12v. Quick research pointed to RR or Stator. Following steps for checking and shows the RR failed 2 checks when checking the diodes. Stator checked ok with no grounding or major variations on the windings. I ordered a replacement ($38) on ebay but it had the brown wire that's not needed on the 89. I read it was OK to use so I took a chance. I got the unit and cut the white (stator) wires and solder them. DO THIS! Do NOT skimp here. I didn't need to remove the brown wire as the plug accepts it no issues which was my biggest concern. However, I had to tap the mounting holes. But it fits perfectly! I'm pleased to report that the voltage is the STRONGEST I've ever seen! If your voltage dips to 12 or lower check it right away. I wish I had sooner. Metric Tap & Die Kit from Harbor Freight. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Many months ago I suddenly lost pressure on my clutch and had to limp home. I changed the fluid out and used 100% synthetic brake fluid. Got a 1-man brake bleeder kit off of ebay and FLUSHED the line. And I mean I flushed it! Since then I've not had a single problem. Dont skimp, use the full synthetic fluid and flush at least once a year. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I will agree with you on this. I experienced the SAME differences you stated as I was using a 20w-50 and then 10w-40. I plan not to change due to my own observation. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Hey, I _just_ had this SAME issue with my 89VR. I had dash illumination, spedo and tach worked, temp gauge worked. Voltage, computer monitor, and flashers quit. I found that the problem was right at the fuse box itself where the connection comes from the fuse and heads to everything. Mine fuse panel is NOT OEM from what I know (uses blade fuses). The moment I moved the connection everything worked. Next day was out on a ride and just before I got home same issue again. This time I made SURE the connection was solid and not had a problem since and that's 100+ miles ago. Just a quick $0.02 for ya...

I seen someone posted a type size but nothing more was said about it. I was thinking about that myself but not at the moment as my tire is OK. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

See attached. Purchased at O'Reilly Auto Parts. Fits very well as far as I see right now. Old cap started leaking when I changed the antifreeze. 89 Venture Royale Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Well the vibration problem has been solved. It turned out that the Avon Tire that I had on the front, I was told by the previous owner that it was a very new tire. The local dealer that I use the owner took one look at the tire and told me that it was 4 years old. So I ordered a new tire and it is been installed. It appears now that the vibration issue has essentially been taken care of. However, the rim that's on the bike is a little out of Tolerance according to the manufacturer specification. I tried to get another Rim that I purchased from a shop off of eBay, but the night before I was ready to get the tire installed I stop by Harbor Freight and got me a brand new dial indicator and magnetic clamp base. I decided to check the rim, better to be safe than sorry. So with an additional $30 spent, I put the rim up to check and found that it was .052 thousands out of round! You literally can see a Bend at the bead wall on the rim it's that bad. So I had to choose the lesser of two evils, and use my rim. Oh yeah I forgot to mention that the replacement Rim also had Frozen wheel bearings. But since the change out of the Avon Tire to the Dunlop, I've been able to obtain speeds in excess of 115. And no that's not my normal cruising speed, I just got the way out of traffic! That's been the only time I pop the bike that hard. I have to say that I have been deeply disappointed in the stability of this bike while on the highway in windy situations. The bike seems to be more unstable in crosswind situations more so than a previous Goldwing that I owned. This is been quite surprising to me given how heavy this bike is. But I can't say that I'm very pleased with the power that it develops, and I have seen an average of 34 MPG. I did find out though that I cannot escape from running 92 Ron. When I switched from 87 to 92, I found that the valve train quit rattling. However today I did notice on a 30 mile drive back to the house that the engine temperature was higher than what I expected. I'm planning to test the antifreeze and to start looking at the manual concerning Flushing and change out to see if this addresses the problem. I do not think that it is the thermostat because I do see when it is opening and closing with the temperature variations on the gauge. Also, I'm planning to include water wetter in the 50/50 mix when I get it flushed. I'm also considering removing a facade piece from the side of the engine in order to allow even more air flow from the radiator off the bike. But so far as things are going right now, the bike is doing okay. I did have to flush the clutch master cylinder out because I started losing pressure. I replace the fluid with brand new synthetic brake fluid and I'm pleased to report that the difference has been astounding. Hopefully, with this change the fluid and using a brake bleeder that I won't have to address this for quite some time to come. But I was thinking about waiting another few weeks and then flushing it again just to get any residual old fluid out. Certainly couldn't hurt. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Thanks for the reply. Well, I worked on it until 0120 last night. I decided to directly wire from the switch to the rear harness. It works now. I was forced to use the new 2-wire switch as I inspected the old switch and found that the spring is gone (no, I didn't lose it when I pulled it apart!) Apparently the previous owner tried to work on the switch and he ripped on of the tabs off the old switch. My cruise isn't working anyways, so reducing to two wires so I can get it back working is WORTH IT...imho... But, I'm pleased to report (that as of right now) both switches are working. I also have the Hyper-Lights working as well (LED flashers that are mounted on the top of the helmet box) that really adds another layer of safety. Getting those working with the system was a PAIN given that I had to diagnose it as well and finally finding there was a grounding issue. This bike has additional 'aftermarket' lighting fixtures configured to run as tail lights on a on/off switch. I plan to change some of them into becoming additional brake lights so I can really get a massive rear-end stop signal to the morons behind me. I'm concerned because there's a section of I-10 in the Biloxi area that's not a safe place. I'm also looking into converting the main tail light bulbs to LED along with the headlamp. Does the computer throw a fit when switching to LED's?

Here's my problem: My front brake light (FBL) hasn't been working since I got the bike. The foot brake works fine. I found that the FBL switch was damaged, so I replaced it and had no change. I tested the brown wire (12V+) and it's fine. I removed the headlight as I read that someone had a similar issue and found a broken wire. When pressing the rear brake, I hear a relay in the fairing but nothing when I press the FBL. I did hook both the wires at the FBL together and the light didn't come on. Suggestions? I don't know where the brake relay is, and I sure don't know where the CPU is either.

Update: 05/10/2018 @ 1229 CST To All: Front Wheel: I had the wheel balanced by a local shop. The owner balanced it with a bubble balancer! Wow, hadn't seen one of those since the 80's! He's been wrenching since '68 and balances tires that run on bikes turning 200+MPH, so I'm like, "HELL YES YOU CAN BALANCE MY TIRE!!!" He did, it's better, but I'm still dealing with the bad vibration at >75MPH. I'm planning to stop at Harbor Freight and lose some $$$ but I'm going to get a dial indicator w/magnetic base and I'm going to ONCE AND FOR ALL verify if the rim is in spec or not. Suspension: Great news! I have discovered that the air suspension WORKS! The weird thing is that it'll only come on when the key is in ACC not ON. I found this to be quite STRANGE. Can someone tell me what key position your unit comes on if it's like mine (ACC) or when the key is ON? Front Forks: I've seen an '89VR that had some fork tube covers. Is there one that everyone recommends? I'm thinking about getting them done with my mechanic as my stability on the front SUCKS right now. Yes, they're leaking. And no, I'm not going to do this myself. :> Venture Cruise: (update) - Ok, I had to pull the controller at the throttle apart and found it was plugged with dirt. After cleaning / blowing / lubing the switches I've found that the light indicators are showing that I can SET the speed. However, it's not controlling the speed. It'll slow down and the RESUME will light. Even after holding the lever to SET just to make sure still nothing. So right now it appears that the light panel and switches are working. Where is the actuator for the cruise located on the bike? Anything specific I should be looking for when I start looking at the unit? Thanks again for everyone's suggestions and pics!!!

Ok, I was WRONG about what I previously said! Sigh. I changed the oil last week and remember I said about going back to OEM? Well, I started looking and it looks like it's got an adapter. Well, I'm sticking to the WIX 51381 (Replacement at O'Riley's or eBay) using Valvoline 10W-40 Motorcycle oil. It runs, hasn't blown up so I'm just going to have to take a loss on the filter housing and filter that I got. Oh well.

Well, I see this thread is 'deep' in discussion but I wanted to speak in this for a moment. Ever since I was a kid there's been ONE defining factor of why I have never owned a Harley... THE PRICE IS TOO HIGH! In '94 my first bike was a 1982 Yamaha XS-II 650 for $750 with the carbs COMPLETELY screwed-up by old fuel. But, oh what a way to learn about a bike. My first car was a Toyota Corolla. I started wrenching on metrics. They took the hell of me being a kid (I'd race my Corolla) and they could be fixed without destroying me financially. Every bike I've owned has been a metric. And the prices of HD's has just gone up and up and up and up... Two days ago I'm at a local shop and the owner balanced my tire with a bubble-balancer (I haven't seen anyone balance with a bubble in 20+ years!) and we talked about several items. He described HD's as a 'fashion statement' and that many friends that he's known that's purchased them no longer have them. I made a trip yesterday and seen 2 GL1200's that looked fantastic! My '89 Royale gets MASSIVE chat by people when I stop because they've not seen one in AGES or other topics (I just love I've got an antique plate on it). Yes, I want a new bike. But, it'll be a metric. I won't consider having a HD unless someone gives me one or I have a POWERBALL to apply to the payment!

Oh I'm so sorry, it was the dash indicator that went off and started flashing warning when I was under the acceleration. Sorry, it's still even though it's a computer dashboard it's still a warning light to me. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Well, the Wix I got directly spins right on with no leaks. HOWEVER, a few days ago under HARD acceleration my oil pressure light came on. I read that using auto oil filters are NOT to be used on bikes because there is an extreme pressure difference between a motorcycle filter and an oil filter and this information came from an engineer who work for that Oil Filter Company. Since I seen the oil pressure come on under the hard acceleration while I was getting on the interstate, I've now ordered a filter cover and I'm going back to the original filter setup. Let's face it, the engineers that build the engines know what they are doing and they know the pressures in the tolerances that they need for the oil in the engine itself at the bearings. Because of reading that previous article and then having the oil light come on the absolute first thing I'm going to do is get rid of that Automotive filter and go back to the OEM setup. The previous owners had done the changeover so I don't have the filter cover which I just ordered off of eBay. So hopefully within the next week I'll know if this solves the problem or not, but I expect that it will. In any case I won't be thinking about differences and oil pressure now that I'm going back to the OEM setup, so hopefully everything will be okay. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Update: 04/11/2018 0250CST Before I head to bed just wanted to update on all the work today and need to know if anyone has a spare part: Horn: Found that there was a relay in the configuration of the MESS that was done by someone else. You see, I don't have a radio on my bike (previous owner removed). So, the person fabricated a panel and just put a line of switches going to a BUNCH of relays to control the additional lights and the trailer that was previously used (I didn't want to spend $600 for the trailer). I found wires disconnected, just a mess. Anyways, found that the horn relay was bad so got a new one at AZ and after much work on returning them back to working order I installed my dad's air horns he got back in '73 for a bike when we lived in New Orleans. Guess I should take a picture to show everyone. It doesn't look like some first-rate install. But, I paid $500 for the bike. And I don't care about looks if those horns saves me from someone in a vehicle that doesn't know I'm there. When I hit the horn button on my bike, trust me...they (and everyone else) knows I'm there! Function is sometimes better than beauty. Front Brake Switch: Oh wow did I discover I haven't HAD a working front brake light! I pulled the switch and it's been severely damaged. Not a chance to repair it. I got on ebay and found a new one that I purchased, but does anyone have a spare for a '89 they want to sell to me? It's going to be deep into next month before I get this one and depending on a rear brake to signal when I'm stopping is NOT something I want to do! Front Tire: Installed 1oz of beads in the tire today. I still have an out-of-balance issue. I'm thinking I might get the balancer at Harbor Frieght so that I can actually do some test to see if the wheel is warped from a previous accident. Venture Cruise: is it even worth trying to diagnose this system? It lights up, shows that I can 'set' it, but doesn't accuate to control the speed. Suggestions? Well, off to bed. Thanks to EVERYONE for your replies and suggestions!!! BTW---thanks to everyone for your advice and help during this time to get this bike running.

My bike looks just like yours. Yours is Very nice! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Update: 4/9/2018 1850CST To All: So FINALLY, the guy got it running! I've had it on the road a few times (couple of 80 mile trips, around town). But, been concerned about not having a horn working and other questions about things I was seeing SO today I started pushing off into it. So now that it's running, charging looks great so no issues there. Front tire SUCKS at 75+MPH...I'm going to be putting ceramic beads in it before running it again to see if that cures the balance issues. SIDE PANELS...WHAT A NIGHTMARE FROM HELL!!! I've had an old GL1200 that was SO SIMPLE to remove/replace these things!!! I'm so pissed at the hell it takes to put them on that I just ride it with them OFF. I need some comments on a few things as I'm now dealing with electrical issues (no horn, some lights not working, brake light issues)...so see below and here we go!!! Handlebar Brake light switch NOT WORKING. This is the serious one. I can hear the microswitch working (clicking). Nothing works on the rear from my right hand, so only the foot brake works the brake lights. Suggestions? Fuses: on the top of the battery all looks fine (none broken). Found a lower FUSE box (in front of the battery) that I found the hazard was blown (15A). Replaced it...gee...hazard lights work. YIPEE! Look...every victory counts... Does anyone have a picture that tells what each fuse is on the top fuses that are on top of the battery? HORNS: Press the horn button and I'm getting a 'clicking' (relay) but nadda on either of them working. Meter shows 0.01 off / and 0.10 when horn switch is depressed at the horn (wires removed to straight test). Uh, where in the hell is the relay? Ideals on what might be my problem(s)? I'm going to be removing them anyways to replace with a VERY LOUD air horns my dad got for his bike back in the '70's (yes, they work...trust me...) :> Seat: How in the name of HADES does that thing come off?????? I want to remove it JUST to see if there's some missing fuses, something not connected because I've got a lot of lights on the back of the bike not working (don't know if they're factory lights OR addon's...) I'm just starting to locate the stuff on this bike that's not working. I found a connector not plugged, so removing the seat is something I need to do. Kickstand: this bike LEANS...and I do mean it LEANS. My mechanic let me know someone laid this bike down HARD. I already knew the kickstand wasn't working right, but wow this thing leans on the kickstand. So much that even some kid I know asked me about it. Yes, it's safe. But anyone dealt with this issue before? Is there a fix? POWERBALL: I'm playing numbers out of a chinese fortune cookie (CFC) from this past weekend...seriously...how else better would you like to win the lottery???? Before I would announce I won with numbers from a CFC...I'd race out and buy stock in the company so I could make even MORE money!!!!! So it's running...hunting dow the electrical issues it the last fights.

UPDATE - 3/26/2018 To All: I know it's been a LONG time since we last talked about my bike. After we last talked I just SHUT DOWN doing anything with the bike. I was having HECK trying to get the carb stack out from the bike and just quit dealing with it to move on to more pressing issues. Days turned into MONTHS with the bike just sitting in the shop, parts everywhere, just taking space. For some time I've been talking to a man (REALLY YOUNG!!!) in New Orleans that had worked on this series engine before. We finally came to an agreement and he drove over to my house to help me load it on my trailer and off to take to NOLA. This kid really knows his way around a bike. He tore into the carbs and found that the deceleration diaphragms was SHOT ($67/ebay) to replace all 4. But the needle diaphragms are in GREAT shape (saved me TONS of $$$). I ordered the new parts including new plugs and air filter. He expects to have the carbs completed in the next few days and will sync them as well. Overall he hasn't found additional issues with the bike (so far). We have no ideal of the state of the clutches, but he's going to fully test the bike and inspect the charging system along with flushing the front brake to make sure I've got solid stopping power. Of course I'm going to know more if/when he gets the carbs mounted and to see if FINALLY this thing will crank or not. He told me the float wasn't bad on the #1 carb that was pouring fuel. I wasn't able to get additional details as he was needing to leave to get lunch. He did tell me that working on these carbs is VERY involved getting them clean because of all the circuits for fuel. I know that once I get it home (working) I plan to test &/or change the anti-freeze, change the rear drive oil, and start the massive cleaning / polishing / rust removal. Again, sorry that I've dropped off the map. I'm still around and hoping to finally (after some years) to be able to get back on a bike and just enjoy shifting thru the gears. Of course, something additional could be wrong. But - perhaps at long last - the end of this saga might finally be in sight. I'll let everyone know how it goes. If it's working great we can then talk about suggestions on any mods/issues that I should address.

I got a WIX that screwed right on. It was there from a previous owner. But, I wish it was original filter. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. If I can't repair mine I'll buy one from you if you want to sell. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Update 10.19.17 The unending hell... So, now back to working on the bike. I cannot get those carbs our. I've got the stack off the manifolds, but managed to break the holder for one of the carb throttle cables. Yet another problem of the unending hell that doesn't stop. My biggest issue is that I have no friends so I have no one to help. Gets so lonely working on this bike and I've still yet to even see if it runs. I was talking 2 a guy that fixes bikes and he wants me to stop because he just fixed a V-max and no issues getting the pack off. I'm so pissed about this I've started to remove one side of the manifolds but of course that's a new hell since I've got the stack in the way. I'm sorry to vent. I'm really being nice in this posting as I'm not adding all the f-bombs this bike so richly deserves. I'm just sick of yet more unending stuff that looks like I've got to remove to get a SIMPLE CARB PACK off an engine!!!! Pic is of the part I broke. Can it be TIG welded? Again, sorry for the venting. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Does anyone have the part number for the carb float? What numbers do you need from me so I can start looking for one.

UPDATE: 1306 10/8/2017 As you know I live in Long Beach, MS which just got run-over by hurricane Nate. Just lots and lots of rain. I didn't lose power but my mom did about 40 miles from me. I'm about 1.5 miles above the water, so we got that rain in buckets. At least it's gone now and it's nice outside. Due to the hurricane, I let it sit for nearly 2+ days in the seafoam. Drained and retried---failed...also flushed it out fully with carb spray and no change. No other option but to pull them now. If it's not hung up somehow and that float is bad then I'm DEEPLY concerned about how to fix it. Some people talk about using airplane dope, but if anything with MEK hits it I'm fully screwed. Does anyone know of anything that's used as a replacement float? I've never set float height before. If nothing is wrong with it I can pull the carbs and clean them out but setting that height is something I've never done. I'm working with the fact to just pull them and ONE at a TIME clean the piss out of them, get them back on the bike, and then synch ((if the bike runs at all...that's the million $$$ question right now...)) so I'm not planning to get any carb kits. Anyone want to point me to the best link for carbs for these bike?

Wow, really? I got mine for 500. Yes, it needs repairs but what else is new? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I took the incoming fuel line to get it full of seafoam. If it fails after 24 hour sit, then off come those carbs! And I'll get some new plugs...thanks for the info...ill keep battling on...im too old to give up... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk