cptriker1

Trust me, I'd prefer to go back to the 'stock' filter setup. But, and I'm not kidding here, I've just been BLOWN AWAY with all the differences I've noticed dealing with this oil change! 1. Engine is running cooler. 2. Engine noise is MUCH reduced and that's no lie. 3. Shifting is MUCH improved. I'm aware of the fram filter issues. I do have the stock cover and bolt from a seller on ebay but I didn't get the washer. Because of that I've continued with the adapter setup. I just have to admit how deeply pleased I am concerning this oil change. I'm SOLD. I'm now back in the realm of SANITY (concerning costs) so that I can focus on doing the change every 4K miles and not be BROKE doing it. I grew up changing oil so much it was crazy (in my bikes) because I wanted to. I drive my bike alot. Since this oil is MA rated and I've seen all these benefits, I'm very pleased. YES YES YES I know that people are going to have much more expensive oil in their bikes. But, with Rotella having the 'commercial' package additives and being rated for use in engines that will see more HELL than my bike will ever see...I feel that I'm giving it the best protection. I feel that my oil choices have been sound in my life. My Toyota Yaris just turned 300,000 miles and I've mostly used Mobile 1 Extended Full Synthetic. It's great for that application. And my research has shown that Rotella will fit the criterion I've set for my bike.

Yes, we are a dying breed. I'm just a fat guy on a bike. I'm either in my shorts or I'm wearing my scrubs. It just blows everyone's mind at work when they find out I'm on this MASSIVE cruiser. What really blows people's minds is when they see the Antique plate on the bike! And, it gives people something to look at as I blow their doors off. I met my wife on a bike so she doesn't say anything about my motorcycle addiction. Sadly, she can't ride with me anymore because she's got a battery pack in her hiney and it causes her a LOT of pain to be sitting on a bike seat. You know, I don't want to die on a bike. I'm out on I-10 and I'm either running with traffic or leaving it behind. In my youth I had a 650 that I learned on, but I quickly found out that I needing something with more BALLS to get the HELL out of traffic or go the places I wanted to go (interstate). I've even advised a friend of mine that way and he did the same thing, small 650 then moved to a harley when he 'knew' it was time to change. I've owned nothing but used Jap bikes. If I won the lottery tonight, I'd be at the local Honda dealer getting a new bike (((GOLDWING))) before I'd have a hog. I'm not interested in having a bike that likes to breakdown every time you touch it. Jap bikes have more power, faster, and by goodness they just are more reliable. But yes, we are a dying breed. But that's ok. People make their choices. And my choice is to put a bike between my legs and twist the throttle until I forget about everything and start enjoying the wind.

To All: So I was thinking about if I should post this or not, but what a difference...so here I go... You see, one of the things that's been deeply bothering me is how much it costs to do an oil change. When I was young, first bike, I changed the oil so much it was NUTS because oil was cheap, I was stupid, and my bike was air cooled (1981 Yamaha XS-II 650 Special). Now that I'm older, and fatter, working on stuff isn't fun like it used to be. Quite frankly, it can be downright uncomfortable or painful. But, in all the reading I've been doing I've been quite pissed at Wal-Mart because they just can't keep Valvoline 10W-40 motorcycle oil on the shelf. But, won't have problems finding the expensive stuff! I'm being honest here. I'm not 100% on full-synthetic because I'm worried it'll screw my clutches! If that's true or not, I'm going to play it safe and stick with dino oil. It's what came in the bikes so that's what they're designed for. And YES---I do know ALL ABOUT full synthetic oils! I've been using Mobile 1 Full Synthetic in my 2008 Toyota Yaris and I'm only 700 miles away from 300,000 miles and NO OIL USE!!! I flipped it at 6,500 miles to full synthetic and never looked back! But, I had read someone with a VR had issues with full syn in the bike with clutches so started looking hard. After I found a major read about people using Rotella T4 or T6 in their bikes (diesel engine oil) I started to listen. The guy goes in to talk about the oil having the BEST additives (shown by the ratings codes) and that it was MA/MA2 approved. Yes yes yes...I know this is going to open a firestorm...but hear me out ok??? Because tonight I did the change from Valvoline to Rotella and the results are downright SHOCKING how much BETTER everything is doing! 1. Engine sound - especially top-end valve noise - has been so reduced it's just stunning. 2. Shifting IS smoother. I'm easily able to see much better shifting. 3. Transmission gear whine is much reduced. Cost factor and the fact its rated for motorcycles (not to mention 1 gal size just over $12) makes oil changes more cost effective. I've seen about the 8K miles before changes in the manual. Yeah...right...my ass is cooking in SOUTH MS running on i-10 ((at speeds I'd rather not mention)) and you want me to keep dino in for 8K miles turning over 4K engine speed???? Yeahhhhhhh......riggghhhhtttttt..... I pulled the plug with 6K on that Valvoline and let's just say it was time for it to come he heck out of there! So, new oil is in and also switched from WIX filter to Fram due to availability (bike has adapter to auto filters). Besides the fram is pulling down to 20 microns (pine pollen is 5 microns) and I'm now looking at changing more often due to the coming summer. All I'm saying here is that my results was immediate and very positive. I'm going to go long term with this oil. One guy talked about engine inspections using Rotella and engines were clean. Many guys talked about using in their bikes for many years with no issues. Now, perhaps you're full synthetic. I can and do understand. However, I'm deeply pleased with what I experienced tonight and hope to report on this more as time (and miles) goes on. Link: https://advrider.com/f/threads/does-anyone-run-shell-rotella-oil-in-there-bikes.165074/page-2

Hey everyone...another set of questions from the lone VR guy in Long Beach, MS!!! So, I'm wanting to do an oil change and I've been dealing with oil down the bottom side of the bike ever since I changed the starter clutch back when I got the bike. Questions: 1. Can anyone post a pic pointing to the EXACT bolt on the clutch cover that should have the washer and should be removed for an oil change? I know that it can hold some oil and this time want to remove it. 2. When replacing the bolt on the clutch cover, should I use some teflon tape to prevent a leak? I know the washer should be there, but wanting to stop this stupid oil issue. 3. Where on the sight glass (with bike on center stand) should it be for a correct oil change? If it goes over, is there a bypass for blowing out the extra oil and where is that located?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Way-Starter-Clutch-Gasket-Yamaha-Ventrue-Royale-VMAX-VMX-1200-1300-82-07/321913218497?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D4eda7ab6e8444e08b0e289e857342169%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D11%26sd%3D151994633844%26itm%3D321913218497&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 That's a current listing on ebay for $45.00. I first took my flywheel off so I could inspect everything before I purchased the parts as I seen the big starter gear could have been an issue. However, when I took mine apart the gear was perfectly fine. It was the starter clutch housing that was cracked to heck. IF I had to do this again I'd go Dano's route as I think it's 100% worth it. Heck, if the bike was to be sold for parts and I had my flywheel done by Dano I'd pull it off and sell it because I know someone would want it! Oh yeah, chase the bolt holes with a tap before you put the new bolts in (use torque wrench). Removing the flywheel / reinstalling it is the hardest thing (use torque wrench!). Harbor Freight is the best place for all your torque wrenches and a metric tap set if you need them. We love Harbor Freight on this board...:amen:

Concerning the wires / leak don't think it's going to be there. I was 'for sure' (ahem...cough...cough...)that I surely put that bottom bolt with the washer (ahem) but since that looks like the location of the leak...well...hahahhaha... I just finished a 80 mile trip on her running 75-80...so...it runs...it goes...life is good...bluetooth earbuds jammed in the ears with my Christian music...just running the road and praying...

I don't understand, i got my starter clutch right on ebay for my 89vr for $50. Has worked fine >1 years. I'd love to have done Dano's method, but after i got my bolts to remove the flywheel i used my electric impact to remove it. When it popped loose it scared me. Sure enough crap was cracked and needed replaced and you must use new bolts and blue loctite. I do have a slight oil leak dispite the fact i used a new gasket with gasket seal but SCREW IT I'll just power wash it clean. One day I might trace it down (i assume its the bottom bolt) and fix it. Right now I'm about to install a new led stop/turn signal light on my top box... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Parts alone at $300???? Damn i wish i could get it... that's a steal! Hell check out the wheels and see if they're true @. 005". I couldn't find anyone that could sell me a front wheel that wasn't SCREWED. I got one from ebay dang thing was worse than mine (it was over. 060" out...) so one good wheel alone is an easy $100! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I've thought about lowering the needles, but for today I'm going to hop on the bike and drive on I-10 and I'll be running 75-80 the entire way. So it is what it is. I do need to check the tires as I've been running 41 in them to make sure they are ok. Having the bike is better than nothing... And its still a $500 bike... so i can live with a lot... Hehehe! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Is that nice or what!!! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Sounds like the needles more than anything else. Anyone got a link to them so I can at least see them and get at a later date?

So some might remember I've talked about MPG on my bike. When it was originally fixed, my mechanic told me that it was running on all four as i asked. He has vmax experience so I trusted him. The other day I had stopped at a local flea market and a man walked up. We talked and he's retired motorcycle mechanic and is familiar with the bike. I discussed the issue and told him I was getting about 30. He said that's right for the bike and mentioned about the bike weight at 900 and I'm 351lbs (nearly 1,300 lbs of bike and buns being hauled). I just refilled running 75-80 MPH. Speedometer is 5mph off. 100 miles on 3.2 gallons=31.25 I have no noticeable issues in performance. Fuel gets treated with Lucas at every tank. Plugs and filter replaced over a year ago so they're ok. Battery is fine along with the charging system. I take it easy to spare the clutches but she'll GO if you screw with her. To me, this bike is a nightmare when it comes to repairs. That's the only issue that I ever had with this bike. I've had two opinions that she's just fine. Doesn't smell rich, cranks good. Opinions may now begin... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

To All: Ok, for everyone sorry about the title but it's the truth. Just how many of you have checked the two screws on your gas cap? Yesterday I'm getting low and need to refuel so I drive to a local station. It was HELL getting the cap off. I had previous problem a few days before that at a different station, but now it wasn't coming off. After awhile of fighting it comes off. I discovered that one screw was gone and the other was VERY loose. If you don't have both screws tight you're running the risk of what happened to me. I think I lost one in my tank, but my magnet wasn't able to get it. I'm not going to lose sleep over it, I found a replacement in my spare metric screw box (M4). So, don't laugh at me about this but take a look at your cap. Make sure there's no movement when you turn the key other than the locking tabs moving. If any movement, check the tightness of the two screws.

My bike only gets about 30mpg with carbs balanced. The guy that rebuild the carbs said that's normal. Is it? My speedo is 5mph off btw. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I know that this must have been picked up from GL1200s. I know i wanted so badly to convert mine, but the carb was no longer manufactured and was impossible to find or get parts. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I read that as well! I have a strong mechanical background and i would NOT be able to do that and I don't have any help as well. Two weeks ago I met a man and he told me he was going to get one many years ago but wouldn't over the 2 gear issue. That's really a major repair. But, that's going to be your decision. Skipping the gear sounds good at 500 bucks though! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

No question about the 500. It was no question about my bike and the man I got it from knew it. Running it would be 1500 or more but not a dime over 500 or I would walk away. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

1989 Yamaha Venture Royale taken a few weeks ago. The moment it gets warm this bike is rolling... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

FYI, i paid $500 for my 89vr non-running due to carb #1 needed fixing. Carbs rebuild was another $600. Battery $120. New front tire $125 and Regulator was $40. Ive drove it a ton of miles since last year. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

No slipping in 4th, just not smooth in shifting but I'm going to bleed the system again as I like to do that once a year even though it's full synthetic brake fluid. But, i can't apply power in 3rd or I'd get some slipping. Just can't fix it right now as money is needed for other pressing issues, but i dont power it in third so it's all good! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Ive had a 84 gl1200 and my 89vr...the vr is better... Electrical issues much easier to fix... Less breaks in them as well... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I would have thought so, but sure don't like 4th gear. But, id like new clutches and a Powerball as well... Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

In curious does this happen on 89s? Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I've purchased parts from these guys before (brake pads and additionals) while searching for the RR on eBay. They answered emails quickly so I took a shot to get this unit even with it having the brown wire that my bike doesn't require. The OEM RR that I removed didn't have the brown wire. But, I read in another post that having the brown wire isn't necessary IF your bike doesn't have it. I've already put a couple of hundred miles on the bike since my original post and that voltage is sitting so perfect it's scarey!!! The only time I see it drop is at idle and it's still above 12V unlike what I've been dealing with from the bad RR I removed. I only changed the RR. I did a full test on the stator and it was not showing it was grounded to the frame nor was there a great variance when doing the AC test with bike on at 1,000 RPM (idle) as was specified in another post about how to check the stator and the RR. When it came in the box it was a perfect fit to the OEM RR that was on the bike. I removed the left rear footrest and then removing the two Phillips screws (#3) holding the RR. The replacement RR required that I tap the mounting holes on the the screws. After that, I had to take the two bolts holding the fuel pump so I could move it around for me to maneuver the RR back to its home. There was no additional work required after getting it mounted other than bolting the fuel pump back in place. I recommend that you put Never-Seize on the screws for the RR! I know that I was SO HAPPY they came out so easily but I sure wasn't going to take that chance in the future...best to prevent problems NOW than later.

I found out one thing this past summer. Do NOT, under ANY circumstances, use Lucas Oil Stabilizer!!! I did an oil changed (20W50), added the Lucas, and no sooner than I had it in my 3rd gear slipped! Lucas had replied to an email I sent them about using that in the oil and they told me it would work, wouldn't harm anything, and what ratio to us. Yeah, NOT!!!! As soon as I got home I had to DUMP the oil, get yet another filter, and back to 10W-40. My problem cleared up but I still want to replace the clutches after that. Yet another learning experience. Straight motorcycle grade ONLY oil should be used in this engine unless you're just DYING to screw your clutches.