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az1103
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Everything posted by az1103
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Excellent test!!! As an ex Nomad owner I pretty much agree with the test conclusions. Although my Nomad was carburated and when I got through with it there was deffinitely NO shortage of power. But even without tweaks it will smoke a stock Harley. It always amazes me how all these Harleyphiles can turn it's defficiencies into positives: 1. Skimpy equipment-what an excellent opportunity to customize with overpriced components. 2. Weak antique of an engine - Wow! what an opportunity to buy super expensive Screaming Eagle components! 3. The sound!!! Worth every cent of the thousands of extra dollars you will pay for this undependable, antique! 4. Oh and let's not forget the permanent oil slick on the garrage floor - What an oportunity to waste money on absorbents and floor coverings. Yah! a true achievement of US manufacturing!
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This is probably not the right place to post this but I am not sure where it would best fit......So here it goes... I have a friend who decided to mix brands (bad idea). Anyhow, he ended up with a Starcom integrator and 5 pin mini-din headsets , a Zumo550 and a J&M 2003 CB . All great components BUT!...... The J&M has 6 pin dins and requires amplified mike..... His headsets are dynamic mini 5pin Dins. What's needed is a transition adaptor!!! Both manufacturers are less than helpfull....Do any of you have experience with this or a source?? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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The Carbtune is the way to go ! Try it , You'll like it . And stay away from that second stealer he is trying to upsell you and overcharge you!!
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RSV Miles per Gallon, Speeds, and Odometer Errors
az1103 replied to V7Goose's topic in Watering Hole
Good job! I just wish I had your perseverance!!:happy65: -
Well, now I am really baffled! If you have a Zumo hooked up, as I do, then you know the correct speed at any time. You also know the odometer is showing the right mileage for maintenance , mpg and such.....So what would be the motivation to purchase and install something which per FQ-16 will fix one problem while creating another. You already know the info from the GPS will be better!!!! So why waste your time and money? As to the initial question of this thread, do you realy think that the sale price will be affected more by a couple of hundred miles than by the general appearance and condition of the bike? Come on now honestly, life is too short for this.....
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Has anyone here done a linked brakes modification? Any observations or comments? Does it cause problems in slow speed handling (I am used to back brake only at low speed)? Does it make the pedal feel spungy due to the additional piping?
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Sounds like eubonics to me......
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I have no idea what all this sidestand talk is about.I left mine as it was - never had a problem. Then again, I watch where I park so I suppose if you park with high ground on the left you could be too vertical. But why would you do that??? The ammount of difference just doesn't justify butchering the sidestand.
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Sorry, but something here isn't right. I wouldn't go tearing into those carbs before determining the source of your vaccum loss. Your engine is not a V twin, there is no way it's going to run smooth on two cylinders. I suspect you have a blocked vaccum tube or two. If you have an air compressor I would try to blow those tubes clear. If that doesn't do it spray some carb-cleaner or WD-40 in the tube, let it sit for a couple of minutes and blow it through again. If you have no compressor connect one of the carbtune hoses without the damping insert and see if you can blow it through, just blow, don't inhale, particularly if using carb cleaner. Once you are certain that air can get through those tubes then try dropping the pressure in the other two as someone suggested above. But I suspect that once you clear those tubes, it will all become clear. There is no way you have 0 vaccum!!!!
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Last change I tried the new Yama 20-50. Don't like it, the bike seems to be noisier plus it's constantly smelling like burning oil even though there are no spills or leaks , I guess it's just a smell specific to this oil. Certainly doesn't add anything to the ride. I may have to change again early...Probably will go with the Mobil 1 . It seems a bit expensive, but if it works I don't care. And I do like their filters.
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It sure looks like the power lines went right through branches even before your tree fell. Not a very safe situation....
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For those who think of diesel engines as being eco-friendly, you may want tolook at this. http://autos.yahoo.com/articles/autos_content_landing_pages/610/dirty-driving-top-10-worst-polluters
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I would say that's highly unlikely. First because I don't believe Yama would mess with emission requirements for that, and secondly because there is nothing you can do to this engine to make it sound like that primitive smog-maker.
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Good instructions here, not hard, very worthwhile, and free. Untill you do this don't go to new tires, major waste of money, better use it for something you realy need on that new bike ! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=939
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Once you start it will all become fairly obvious and realy simple - just follow the instructions. You shouldn't have any trouble and if you need help, just post! Judging from the cost in the post above, you should get a nice glow just to know that you did it yourself and saved plenty.
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Yes, It is that simple. And personally I see no safety issue whatsoever. I see a lot more issues with raising the rear and therefore the CG on a bike that is already top-heavy. I also see some issues with using tires which are not recommended by the manufacturer. Say what you will, I tend to trust Japanese engineering. I ride 2up 95% of the time and I happen to love my wife and am rather fond of life in general so I am not ready to risk more than necessary. Changing rake has been an established and recognized method to control handling. Now, if I was 6ft-4 or 8 and 250# of rippling muscle I might consider raising the rear, but at an average 5ft-9 I wouldn't even think of doing so. And having ridden several K after lowering, I can tell you that if you drag anything you are going way too fast on what is not a rice rocket.
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I have a feeling they ride so fast because they have no running boards and they are perching on those pegs like parrokeets, so they are rushing so they get off faster.
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Personally, If you are on Dunlops I wouldn't waste the money on Avons. I would lower the front end first, that costs nothing and gives great results. Of course if you are tall, you could raise the back with the Baron's links. In either case the "ride like a pro" won't hurt, but it won't fix the innitially lousy slow-speed handling either.... only lowering the front or raising the rear will do that. And personally I am leary of the "Avon legends". You can find on this very site where some people rave about them and others for whom they caused problems, vibration and the like. But...that's what I would do... You may want to do your own thing.... Mainly enjoy the ride!!!!
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In California the amber light is called a warning or a caution light it warns you that a red light is about to turn on. You may enter the intersection on an amber but you are supposed to clear it before the red. But regardless of why the driver in front of you stops. Even if only because he is an idiot-you are still responsible for putting yourself in a position of not being able to stop in tine. In this state if you rear-end someone it's your fault. Period. If you think you can prove otherwise, you will have to do it in court - my guess you would be wasting your time and money.
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I wouldn't do it !!.... Might be less expensive in the long run to just add it onto your AAA or insurance car and get them to transport it. Or rent a U-Haul trailer. I don't know how towing would affect waranty with Yama But Kawasaki would invalidate your waranty.
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If it makes you feel better, I am 100% on your side. But I am afraid that the leftwing majority nuts in Congress could give a rat's patoot about our opinion.
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Man.....Judging by what's happened to the last couple of threads which touched this subject, I would say this one has the chance of a snowball in hell of surviving more than a couple of hours.
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Set the Float Levels on QuickSilver
az1103 replied to V7Goose's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Now these are statements I can fully back. BTW I actually ran into problems many moons ago following precisely these instructions from Webber (This in the days of heavy competition between Webber and Carter) . I followed their instructions to the letter and ended-up with a surging and bucking engine. I then redid the adjustments inverting against the spring and all went well. Ultimately I got tired of Weber's insane idea of all adjustments by bending links and threw their carb in the garbage. I replaced it with a Carter which I adjusted (or rather checked the adj.) only once. It ran flawlessly for a couple of years until I traded in the car. -
Sorry, don't take it personally ! It wasn't a criticism, only a suggestion for those who have yet to do!
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You know.... Not to harp on this, but I am not at all sure I want too see a much bigger engine on this bike.... And I deffinitely wouldn't want to see 200hp, and particularly not with BMW characteristics. Waaay too buzzy for me ! I came to tourers from the world of heavy cruisers.... Maybe if I had been on rice-rockets before I would be interested in something buzzy, hard revving and asphalt burning. But as it is, I'll stick to large - comfortable - powerfull - but not to excess. Something I can ride for hours and not have my fingers numb from vibration (BMW) or my brains numb from the noise. Sorry, must be getting old.......