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Gary N.

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Everything posted by Gary N.

  1. Gary N.
    Hi Eugene, You should take a run down to Bob's Motorsports in Chatham. http://www.bobsmotorsport.com/ They know about the issue and where happy to swap my clutch basket out. I can't say enough good about these guys. They really try to make you happy. Having said that, don't expect to totally eliminate the whine. It will change but it won't go away.
  2. Gary N.
    Not without re-wiring it with some heavier wire. It only has a 5 amp fuse and about a 16 gauge wire from the factory. Better to run a switched relay off of the battery too so that you're not putting all that power through the stock ignition switch. As far as getting your seat off. You may have to do some surgery to get at the head of the bolt to hold it from turning. Sounds like somebody over tightened the nuts and caused the bolts/studs to loosen up. Somebody is always selling stock seats if you have to butcher up the one you have.
  3. Gary N.
    Jim, Sorry this took so long. I just got back from the VR rally in CO and just getting caught up.
  4. Gary N.
    Same thing happend to me last week, just before the antenna broke in half. I hope that's the problem.
  5. Gary N.
    The bike is apart for new tires. I'll post a pic with the new tips on the bike when I get it back together. BTW... if you don't like loud, repack the baffles and silicone around the rear baffle plate.
  6. Gary N.
    The second side went a lot faster than the first. I guess I wasn't so worried about damaging the stock tips once I knew that the HD tips would work. Here are a few pics. #1 shows the old and the new #2 tool I used to grind out the muffs #3 ready to go #4 1/4" nuts welded to baffle end plate #5 shows the space between the muff and the end plate (this can be filled with silicone if desired)
  7. Gary N.
    Well, a little tougher than I thought it would be but not too bad. With 40,000 miles on the Bubs the original tips and baffles were a bear to get apart. The fiberglass packing that was on the baffles is totally gone and I didn't buy any to replace it. To get the HD tips to fit I used a 1/4" die grinder with a 1/4" X 2" grinding wheel to hog out (no pun intended) the Bub muffs until the HD tips would slide in and out without any binding. This was not a big job. It only took a few thousandths of an inch to get them to slip in. The baffle plate that used to fit snugly into the original tips ended up having about a 1/4 inch gap all around it with the HD tips. This may cause things to be a little louder than before. If so I will take it back apart and add packing and or high temp silicone. I ended up welding 1/4" nuts where the two rivets attached to the baffles and this helped to keep them centered in the opening. Drilling the original rivet holes in the mufflers out to 1/4" I was able to use some stainless screws to hold everything together. Got to go out and do the other side now. I'll take a couple of pics to better show what I did.
  8. Gary N.
    I have the Bub slip on muffs with the flaking chrome problem on the stock tips. I saw a post somewhere that these HD fishtail tips will go on the Bubs without too much trouble. We'll see.
  9. Gary N.
    I picked up a set of the HD fishtail tips today($66 each CDN, less 15%). I'll let you know how hard they are to install.
  10. Gary N.
    That's why I use a headlight modulator. Don't know if it would help in this case but it might.
  11. Gary N.
    Harley Fishtail End Caps part #65245-96 retail $50 USD each
  12. Gary N.
    I was talked into using it when I put tires on my boy's '95 Monte Carlo and have no regrets. That car always lost air around the aluminum rims and even though we would get them resealed they would still lose air. Since we got the nitrogen, no more problems. It cost $5/tire here.
  13. Gary N.
    I don't have the part number but there is a Harley fishtail tip that will work on the bubs. I have seen posts from others that have used these but it may be on one of the other Venture forums. I've been looking to find the info on it but haven't been able to come up with it. If you find anything let us know.
  14. Gary N.
    What about "maintenance free" batteries? Why don't they need to have water added? Doesn't the water evaporate when they are charged? Something I always wondered about.
  15. Gary N.
    I don't think you have a problem. Mine starts cold, first time, every time and without pulling the choke. In fact I never ever pull the choke. When it's hot it hardly ever starts on the first hit but always starts on the second. Been like that since it was new. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
  16. Gary N.

    Biker Down

    Gary N. replied to EasyRider's topic in In Memory Of

    So sorry to hear this news. My condolences to Tom's family and friends.
  17. Gary N.
    The modulator comes with a photo light sensor that causes it to stop flashing after dark so your high beam will work normally even if the low beam goes out.
  18. Gary N.
    Don't know what the headlight safety feature is that you mentioned but this is the modulator I used. Model P115W http://www.kisantech.com/index.php?cat_id=2
  19. Gary N.
    Brad, Couldn't we hook a SB Chevy alternator to the drive shaft?? We have the technology...LOL Sorry Larry, I couldn't help it.
  20. Gary N.
    Allen, So sorry to hear this news, my deepest sympathy to you and your family.
  21. Gary N.
    Southwest Moto http://www.swmototires.com/ Two Dunlop 404 WWWs, including shipping, (installation and balance locally), $260 CDN including exchange and taxes. I brought the wheels in for the installation.
  22. Gary N.
    I use one similar to this and it works very well. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41891
  23. Gary N.
    Jim, Once you get a full charge on your battery give it a test by leaving the charger off and checking to see it it will start after sitting for a period of time. My bike is in a fairly warm garage (45*) and will start without being charged even after sitting for a month or more. Here's the battery load tester I mentioned before. It's on sale too. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93784
  24. Gary N.
    At 24* the carb heaters are probably running steady too. I think I read that they draw about the same as an electric jacket, 65 or 70 watts. Make sure your terminals are all tight, including the ones on the solenoid and the ground cable. If your running your electric cloths wide open then I would shut the driving lights off. After the battery is charged do a load test on it to check it out. Harbour freight has a load tester for about $25. It's a very handy tool to have around and will quickly eliminate the battery as a problem. As others have said, use a volt meter to check your charging system. You should be getting around 13.6 - 14 volts to the battery at a fairly high RPM and always at least 12+ volts on the idle with no extra loads on the system.
  25. Gary N.
    When I adjusted my driving lights I had to use an allen wrench on the inside of the light, in the stud where the wires come through. I ground one side of the allen wrench away so there was clearance for the wires. The light needs to be snugged up just enough to adjust the light then fully tightened once the light is adjusted. All the allen wrench is for is to keep the stud from turning while you tighten the nut with a wrench. I'm guessing that the stud on yours is spinning in the light. Without holding it on the inside with an allen wrench you'll never get it tight.
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