Gary N.

Carl, that's for the wood stove in your smoker I think.

Jumped the terminals on the solenoid and it worked fine. Pulled the connector and the terminals were very corroded so I cleaned with spray cleaner and worked it on and off a few times. Everything seems to be working for now. It'll probably wait to let me down when I'm in the middle of nowhere. At least I know I can jump the terminals on the solenoid if I need to.

I used some very fine emery paper to clean the contacts Bob. So I guess I should clean the grease off???? I thought it was meant to stop corrosion on electric stuff. BTW I load tested the battery and it's good.

I was starting to have issues with my start button. Push button, nothing happens. So since my bike has been exposed to the weather for the last couple of months while we are south, I figured the starter switch my have some corrosion. Took it apart and sure enough the contacts were quite corroded. I cleaned them up and put some di-electric grease on them and that seemed to work fine. Yesterday while out for a ride it started to act up again. Press button, nothing happened. Keep trying and eventually it would catch and crank. Was it a mistake to put the di-electric grease on the contacts? Is the starter solenoid on its way out? Today I will check all of my wire connections and load test the battery etc.

So very sorry to hear this news. Our deepest sympathy and condolences to Rick and family.

But you haven't seen our new bus....40,000 lbs. Might make a rut or four in your front yard.

WOW! Thanks for posting this Don. It would be fun to go to just for the entertainment value. I haven't seen that many milk trucks in one place since I was a kid.

Hey Russell. Hope you're feeling better real quick.

PM sent Mike.

I'm looking for the front right side lower fairing for my '06 RSV. I hit a rabbit last summer and he took a bite out of mine. Any year will do as I will be painting it anyway. I tried running an ad in the classified section but no replies. Hope maybe someone has a parts bike or know of one. Thanks.

Oh yeah. Wish I'd of seen that about 45 years ago. Learned that lesson the hard way. I was towing an 8' open trailer with a load of 12' posts hanging over the tailgate. A car full of nuns waved me down and said you're loosing your logs. Good thing it wasn't a busy road as I had been loosing them for about a mile back. One of my life lessons. Fortunately it wasn't one of the expensive ones.

I've had both style seats and prefer the older style better myself. But my dear wife, like yours much prefers the pillow top. I've had both pillow tops modified by Rick Buttler but wish I wouldn't have done mine other then the mod did improve the ball room, if you know what I mean. I have used the wooden seat beads ever since I've had the bike and they help with the softness and also the summer heat very much. They do make it a little cooler in the cold weather though.

Well, the topic of this thread is the fact that there was a change in design of an oil filter I've been using for thirteen years. Not my method of installation. I trained as an apprentice mechanic and started out on the grease rack like most do. Most filters say right on them to tighten 3/4 to 1 turn after the gasket touches the mounting surface. NOT 1/4 turn. I guess with dry, clean hands that might be possible (I never wear gloves) but I've always used the right tool for the job at hand and have never had a problem either installing or removing. And I always clean the gasket mounting surface and oil the gasket before installation. I have encountered filters that I couldn't get off with the normal tools. (Not ones that I have installed.) In that case either a pipe wrench, big channel locks or worse case, a drift punch driven through the filter to work as a pry bar will get it off.

Problem solved I took the 85358 back to Car Quest this morning and explained the problem. The parts guy I deal with suggested I try a 85365. He brought one out and guess what. It's black and it's identical in every way to the old 85358 except for the part number.

Just a heads up. I have been using "black" car quest oil filters (85358) for several years. Today I went in to get one and I guess they have changed suppliers. They are now white in colour and when I tried to install it I found that it is quite a bit longer and I couldn't use my filter socket to tighten it. So I go to town to buy a strap wrench and although that works, I could only get about a 1/4 turn before coming to a dead stop. Turns out the filter is bottoming on the threaded part before the gasket is tight. I could see a witness mark around the threaded part of the filter when I took it back off. So tomorrow I'll take it back and complain and hopefully get my money back or exchange it for a black filter if they still have one. Now the hunt begins for another supplier. Of course there's nothing close.

I've seen these companies at the AACA event in Hershey for years. They haul some high end stuff. http://www.horselesscarriage.com/ http://www.reliablecarriers.com/

I stumbled on to this conversion the other day and thought it looked pretty interesting. For HDs, Goldwings and RSVs. http://www.tiltingmotorworks.com/ http://www.legendarymotorcycle.com/news/1363/these-three-wheelers-are-going-to-revolutionize-the-world

I'll have say maybe for us right now. Just got out of hospital yesterday so have to see how it goes the next couple of weeks. Sure want to attend though.

Watching. Might be doable.

With a bit of digging I have found this Black Cherry paint code that was posted on an old thread by an expired member. Paint code for '06 Black Cherry 855j light red 30.9 866j red violet 58.1 4530s flop control agent 80.7 805j jet black 93.6 1002s red pearl 97.3 62320f binder 204.8 62330f balancer 221.5 I don't have a clue what it means or what paint company it's for but I'll take it to my local supplier and see if it means anything to them.

Thank you. PayPal sent as well. Does this thing just glue on?

Nothing against them at all. But with the current exchange rate one quart will cost me about $270. They will be a last resort. Or if I can't get a real close match I may go with a complete repaint.

I'm not sure if your '07 would be the same colour as my '06 or not but if you have the code I could get a sample locally. Thanks.

It's not the first time that I dumped the beast but it's the first time I did any damage. I was in the parking lot at the Little Switzerland restaurant just off the Blue Ridge Parkway. Full house, no room to maneuver, uneven ground, and you know the rest of the story. Anyway I was wondering if anyone here has ever come up with a good paint code for the '06 Black Cherry? I know about Color Rite but would rather not go that route if I can avoid it. I will try for a colour match at the local paint supplier if I need too. I am also looking for a good OEM passing lamp assembly and the left side passenger black cover that goes above the arm rest where the radio controls are. Also due to a rabbit jumping out of a hat or somewhere, I need the right side lower fairing. Mine now has a big chunk missing out of the bottom of it. What's the name of the company that use to always have used RSV parts for sale from wrecked bikes? I think they were in Ohio but I'm not sure. Oh! and I also need a rear shock. Mine started to leak and bounce like a pogo stick after 125000 kms. Will probably go with a Hagon but if someone has a known good OEM for cheap, I might consider that.

Hope you don't mind working on stuff because something that old will require constant work. maybe you are wanting a restoration project?? I think you'll have a hard time finding something in the $20000 range that doesn't need another $20000 of work in it. Look very closely at the roof for evidence of maintenance. If the calking is old and cracked, it's probably leaking. Look at the side walls for delamination. This is very hard to repair correctly. Low mileage doesn't mean good condition. Check all systems before you buy it. Tire age is very important. Anything over seven years old is borrowed time. When they blow out they will cause a lot of damage or a wreck. Figure on about $3500 for a set of 235/85 22.5 Michelins. FYI There are a few parks that restrict the age of units allowed in to 10 years max. I have a friend with a '92 Newmar, 40' 1 slide, Cummins diesel (11mpg) new tires and very good maintenance with all new interior $50000 My old '05 Winnebago 38J, 3 slides, GM 8.1 (8 mpg) K&N, Banks power pack kit (full length headers and 3" dual exhaust). Its still sitting on the dealer lot. Marked down to $63000. (He gave me $50000 for it on trade and was asking $84000) Very good condition and three year old tires. We lived in this for 4 months every winter. I had the computer reprogramed ($1000 USD) and it would scoot. I traded because I didn't want to sell it to anyone I knew. It looks very good but there are some issues. But nothing a lot of $$$$ can't fix. http://www.mcphails.on.ca/rv-used/WINNEBAGO/2005-WINNEBAGO-Adventurer+38J-baa80d560a0a001f4df3c7933c9901cd.htm