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s.tyler58

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    83 model 4500 mile trip... Pre-trip advice ( newby)

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    Goodness gracious,, where to begin.... 1st n foremost = :welcome1::2YELLOW: :group cheers:!!!!

    Glad you found us Mark!! [emoji106]

    The suggestion of printing off the membership list is a good one - as many have found, that list and the knowledge found around our club will probably serve you better than any form of extended warranty on a new bike ever possibly could.. The only thing is, I believe you have to become a full dues paying member of our club in order to have access to the list,, not sure but I am almost positive that is the case.. Our dues are only 12 bucks U.S. a year - definitely well worth the cash IMHO..

    BUILDING BOBBERS IN A SHED??? For absolute positively SURE = YOU are my kinda folk Aussie!!! You sound like just the type of person who can and WILL fly to the States, take one of these ol 83's and totally enjoy a really fun tour of our country!! That said,, here are some random thoughts that may help - what I would do in your shoes:

    1. Pull the cover on the cover over the air box (open the tank fill lid - one small screw in there to remove = slide the cover forward and its off). On top of the battery is the main fuse panel = check it carefully, if at all questionable I would - at a minimum pick up some GM style fuse holders and splice em in = do away with the fuse panel = thing is problematic at best.. I would also double check battery condition including post corrosion = these bike LOVE fresh batteries and having a good battery is the best protection for starter issues IMHO.

    2. Check air filter for mice nests and make sure its clean - leave air filter out so you can see into carbs.

    3. Remove side covers and fairing bottoms so you can access carb covers.

    4. Left side under side cover on frame rail will probably be a terminal where the 3 wires from the stator join the main harness (wont be there is someone has already hard wired it). That terminal has caused more problems than its worth for a lot of us 1st Genners.. I learned a long time ago that the best solution to over come possibly problems is just to clip it and hard wire those three wires = problem solved.. If you decide not to do so = at least pull it apart, check it for melting and corrosion, clean it real good and dielectric grease the thing - you know the routine if you have been building Bobbers.. In process of doing this = grab an ohm meter and ohm out the coils on the stator. The terminal you are looking at houses 3 white wires coming from the 3 phase stator. If memory serves me correctly - 3 to 6 ohms is spec BUT - whats really important when checking the stator is they all ohm out the same.. Just check across the wires (1-2, 1-3, 2-3) and make sure ya get the same reading.. Also check all three to ground for short..

    5. Carbs been rebuilt? Any idea by who and what that terminology means to the person who did it? Personally I would at least pull the little covers over the slides (totally accessible without removing the carbs), pull the diaphrams and check them real good for holes.. Check around the area where the diaphram meets the carb body.. These bikes run amazingly well on 3 cylinders and holes in the diaphrams is one of the main ways to make em have to drag a jug BUT = covering the distance you are talking about covering you really want the old girl to be hitting on all four all the way up to redline - make sense? If you find the fabric along the edge of on the main part of the diaphram worn very thin and not torn really bad they can be repaired very easily. I have tried a LOT of different things for repairing these but the best so far is YamaBond #5 . Clean em up with carb cleaner - dry em - lite smear of #5 , let er cure and she'll be good for THOUSANDS of miles.. I have also patch some major rips using #5 and a small piece of an old diaphram but thats not best - better to pick up new if its that bad.. When ya put the slides back in, make sure they move easily in and out - if sticky = clean them and carb hole with rag and carb cleaners till they do.. Should be REAL easy slide in and out..

    6. Drop in some new plugs - buy standard NGK DPR's - gap em at 30 thou so your at the tight end of the gap spec so they have room to grow a little from running em hard :missingtooth:.. Unscrew the plug caps from the wires = clip 1/4 inch off end of the wires and screw the caps back on.

    7. Put er back together, close the choke and start er up, spit test the pipes while she's warming up to make sure she's alive on 4. May take a bit as these scoots can be cold blooded.. As it warms a little - you should get sizzle on all 4 pipes (like mama used to check a hot iron) - dont be fooled if she doesnt - again they do run remarkably well on 3 - if its running on three figure out why..

    8. Running on 4 - look at carb throats thru air cleaner hole - wick it up and watch slides with pen light on them - make sure they are dancing in unison..

    9. Replace Air filter and cover on air box.

    10. Hook up Sync gauges and sync carbs.

    11. Idling - check volt meter on dash = 12 volts,, twist the throttle = should bounce to 14 voltsish.

    12. Spoon on those new tires = yes BUT in the process,, plan on checking the locks over real good on the bags - both locksets - one that secures the bag to the bike and one that keeps bags closed.. Also grease the gears between the wheel and the pig.. Lots of folks pull the drive shaft and do the splines - I dont make a habit of it and have yet to have problems BUT some have had problems there - your choice.. When you pull the rear wheel watch carefully where the washer placement is between the caliper mount and the swing arm - narrow washer goes outside between caliper and swingarm = thick spacer goes inward against bearing in wheel - you'll see.. Tip wheel over so gear face is facing you. Notice protrusion hub with snap ring on it? Take a sharp screw driver or snap ring pliers and pull ring = lift up and drive hub pins will come out on hub = grease em up.. Also grease up inner needle bearings..

    13. Remove rear pads, run rear caliper pistons out to new pad distance (careful - you dont wanna push em out to far) - use new pad width to judge safe distance to force pistons out with rear pedal.. Rip a clean rag in width of piston clearance and long enough that you can wrap rag around piston and pinch it between your finger and thumb to form a cleaning tool for piston. Soak rag good with brake or carb cleaner and tightly move rag back and forth around piston to clean it really well.. (do same with front brakes when replacing pads up yonder). Force pistons back in and then out to same spot with pedal - examine for drag lines - reclean until no drag marks.. This will keep you from developing a stuck brake in the pouring rain on a mountain side in the mountains of Utah:big-grin-emoticon:. Also, the rear wheel can easily be removed without having to take off the small frame work from the left side by putting the bike on the center stand and then rocking it up on one stand leg at a time and slipping a two by four under the center stand. This also works good for doing the front wheel BUT - when messing with the front wheel be VERY careful not to put rearward pressure on the bike to the point that the center stand folds up and the whole thing comes tumbling down..

    14. The early 1st Gens came with a plastic water pump impellar.. Only way to really know if yours has been updated to aluminum is to pull it down and check it. Personally I wouldnt do that. Instead I would judge it by the way it cools.. They normally run a needles width or two out of the red zone - appears running hot to some folks who arent familiar with them. If its not circulating well because the impellar has no blades left on it it will want to run in the red zone all the time.. Just a heads up.

    15. On oil refill during change.. After draining the oil - turn the key on and let the computer run thru its tests. After it does you should see the little oil container symbol showing.. This symbol is driven by a float switch in the oil pan = that should go out as you fill the case with oil.. Make sure you get new o-rings for the canister with the new filter and replace them - this will keep oil leakage at a minimum.. Only fill the engine to half way up window with filter full - over fill and she will aspirate to air filter can and will leak down on motor.. Here is a secret of mine - I run em hard and all of mine use a little oil when I do - you can keep a real close eye on your oil by hammering on it real hard in first gear occasionally (fun) - if its a quart down and time to add the little oil light will flash when the oil rocks back in the oil pan allowing the float valve to make contact and show the light - make sense?

     

    WOWZY - am I overwhelming you Aussie or is this the kind of info your looking for? More to come if ya want it?

     

     

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

    Stupid solid turn signals...

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    Sounds like your resistors are not "resisting"...or should I say they are resisting to resist? :banana:

     

    All joking aside, it sounds like you might have defective resistors or not the right ones to create the correct electrical "draw" to simulate the energy consumption that a regular bulb has to make your flasher work. I suggest that you test the resistors first to confirm they are working and giving the correct Ohm value they are supposed to be. Here is a quick video to show how to test a resistor with your multimeter:

     

    I recently used 50w 6 Ohm resistors on a car to make the flasher work with signal LED bulbs.....what resistor are you currently using for your Venture conversion?

    It's this kind of help that I find simply amazing from this group! You are a Treasure! Thank you.

     

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

    83 Venture 1200 Electronics

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    Ok. Love love your knowledge and patience. I will try to contact the guy of my guy who looked at it and see if he wants to try Shaun of with the battery disconnected. We did check every connection to the ignition coils, every handle bar switch with every bulb removed. It make take a few days to contact that guy but I want you to know that I really appreciate your well spelled out advice!

     

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

    Can't get 83 Venture (T) into neutral.

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    4 of you carried it? Dang you and your friends are a lot stronger than me. This is not a lightweight bike.

     

    I wonder, if a pin falls out of the shift cam it will prevent you from shifting up beyond that point. If you are above that point when the pin falls out will it also prevent you from going below that point? What say ye that have spent more time in the trans than I have. I thought that that part can at least be seen by pulling the clutch cover.

    Two pushed and steered, two strong young immigrants who do real work for a living carried the rear. I'm a scrawny 59 year old hoping to be able back it out a parking stall![emoji53]

     

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

    Can't get 83 Venture (T) into neutral.

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    So we need to know if this is a new thing for you, or if it was this way when you got it.

    Sometimes it's a real bummer trying to find neutral, but 1st should always be available.

    If it's been this way since you go it, then if my memory serves me correctly, there is a chance that when the rebuild was done the shift shaft was not put back properly. The reason second gear goes south is a washer at the end of the gear train being too soft. If you take the middle gear cover off, you can actually see it and touch it, but you got to remove the transmission to repair it. If there is an extra washer in that location, and I think there are 2, then it will screw with the shifting. Don't ask me how I know. The second washer is a thin washer and can easily be missed on re-assembly.

    The other issue might be that the shift forks are bent a bit, again you need to get into the tranny to fix.

    If you can shift to 2nd and 3rd easily enough, my guess is that it is not the clutch.

    By the way, $12 is a stipend to access all the info and help you are getting. Join us, and be happy.

    Thanks! I thought I had joined but must have spaced it. You guys are amazing! It went into all Years before and somehow we managed to get it into gear while pushing it up hill through 3 back yards to my house 4 of us carried it the last 150 feet. It shifts up 3 times and back down to second but not neutral or 1st.

     

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

    Can't get 83 Venture (T) into neutral.

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    I thought I saw a post about this the other day but I can't find it . Maybe it was my mind playing tricks on me because I've been stewing about this for a couple of weeks? I filled my clutch reservoir and bled it. I can't get it to shift below 2nd gear. She's not running yet but any help would be appreciated.

     

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

    2nd gear has been repaired less than 150 miles before bike sat 1.5 yrs.

     

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

    83 Venture 1200 Electronics

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    Reaching here, but if you have a trailer hitch and plug maybe check the integrity if the harness modification around back. Dont the lights come on with the key? Only other thing, and I saw this on mine, there was a cobbled battery tender or gerbing type plug along side the OE cables on the battery. I removed it before it could cause trouble. Im not sure where else peopl commonly modify stuff. Maybe try removing the stereo and looking around in there to make sure nothing is pinched and to RO the unit itself. Maybe check along the rear of the upper fairing where all the wires ce out and join the harness and make sure it looks right. There is a cable routing section toward the end of the service manual. Like I said, its reaching but hope you find the issue. Electrical stuff sucks!:doh:

    There is no trailer hitch but there is a funky blinking light wraparound on the license plate and there's a bizarre ground coming up above the rear fender under the luggage rack that I haven't traced. This lamps on the fairing light up but nothing in back. Yes I'm not an electrician but I am becoming much more patient as I get older

     

    In the Eternal scheme of things...

    This is not even the blink of an eye

    What the Heck

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    Okay so I hope everyone's having a good day. I'm with my 83 today. I replaced the main fuse and the fuses in the fuse box. Turn on the key , signal fuse blows immediately and when I turned on the kill switch the ignition fuse blew. Now I'm clueless. Any suggestions where to go next?

     

    In the Eternal scheme of things...

    This is not even the blink of an eye

    What the Heck

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    S.tyler58:

     

    There is a 40 amp ribbon fuse on the left side of the fusebox next to the battery. Check that fuse as it powers everything on the bike. May be corroded or melted. Not sure if there is one on the 83 but one on my 89. Also second fuse box(I think) in front of battery. Look for small black box.

     

    Jim

    You were correct. The main was melted down. Thanks!

    Wow! Must be in the air! Dropped a new battery in in 83 and turned the key and got nothing! Now where do I start looking for an issue?

     

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

     

     

    In the Eternal scheme of things...

    This is not even the blink of an eye

    What the Heck

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    I appreciate this help! My opportunity to work on it depends on Nebraska weather in March (74 degrees yesterday, 45 and rain today) so studying the wiring diagram while waiting for the next good day...Have you noticed how aggressive her stance looks with only the Fairing and lowers on?

     

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

    What the Heck

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    Thanks. The bike has sat and sat in the backyard for a year-and-a-half since summer of 15. At that time he had second gear rebuilt he had the carburetors rebuilt he rebuilt the front fork and replace the springs went through all the Hydraulics brakes new front tires new rear tire. Replacing the springs in the fork caused the bike to sit 4 inches higher and previous owner couldn't no longer reach the ground. Clutch needs bled , thought we'd drop in a battery. Probably some seafoam. But once getting the bike home when going to replace the battery discovered blown fuses and ended up rewiring all of those 5 fuses maintaining the power posts at the top of the box. Drop battery in , exclaim, "now WTF?" and began searching for knowledge!

     

    Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

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