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s.tyler58

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    83 1200t cdi

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    Okay. So this is what I know... I stopped in on Friday or Thursday to find out when I might be coming up in the list and while we were visiting I don't know if he has actually looked at it or has been thinking about it. His quote to me was, " I'm thinking it's the TCI unit. How bet you when I get down there and disconnect it we get rid of the open ground that shorting everything else out." He said he's on it for sure this week. I told him, "Look, I have my work and I have this bike. I really neeeeeed this bike!"

     

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    83 1200t cdi

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    I really appreciate this help sniper. I have no idea yet if that's what he's going to find out this is. I'm still at the mercy of what he tells me. I can hang parts and replace things but I'm not a motorcycle mechanic that's for sure! Pretty sure they won't be working tomorrow or Tuesday so I'll be back as soon as I know something more than that you guys are Simply Amazing

     

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    83 1200t cdi

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    You will be better served with an aftermarket unit as there ain't no new factory ones to be found!! Ignitech makes a programmable one that works very well for many of us. There is also another manufacturer that makes one that has its own built in response curve for spark advance when accelerating.

     

    Keep in mind that the '83 TCI is entirely different from the '84 thru '89 units as far as the vacuum advance, they are 180 degrees out of phase from the other years due to where they take the vacuum information from for the boost sensor. You can, however, use an '84 through '89 if you replumb the vacuum to the boost sensor from the carbs to manifold vacuum, which is in exact opposites from each other, the reason why the advance is 180 degrees out of phase with the following years...

     

    Buying a used unit off of eBay is a crap shoot as even though they may work, it doers not mean they work 100% right! Some of them can cause a misfire at higher rpms...

     

    Ok, this leads me to a question. Would you replumb for greater availability of the 84-89 in the future? It's a 35,000 mile Gen 1.

     

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    ???

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    The new slipstream windshield arrived. I know I saw a link about plastic repair I thought I saved it I can't find it anywhere. Someone have that link handy? Also , can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn't use white Flex Seal to spray the inside of my headlight mount for more light?

     

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    ???

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    I'm a, "sure it ain't pretty but it does exactly what need it to do." kinda guy. The tub inside my left side has been modified at least 3 times. It's little more than a frame at this point. Been scrubbing plastic parts while the bike is with a mechanic. Lots of cracks to mend. I'm starting wonder if I can turn my Bluetooth up over the rattling that all that plastic must make?

     

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    ???

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    When out touring I use a tank bag for easy access to certain things (wallet, food). I have RAM mounts on the clutch & brake levers where I run the GPS & Phones but you can just as easily add a cup holder to the ram mounts.

    I guess I don't know what a RAM mount is

     

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    ???

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    A while back I was riding an 80 Goldwing with a Windjammer on it. One of the things that I really loved about the Jammer was that you could access pockets on fly and I was able to mount my phone over the gas cap cover. I don't see how to get access 2 pocket of say a cigar or pack of cigarettes or where do you mount the phone so you can see it or GPS and pick music? Where do you put a piece of candy or something that you can get to without parking first?

     

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    83 model 4500 mile trip... Pre-trip advice ( newby)

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    Goodness gracious,, where to begin.... 1st n foremost = :welcome1::2YELLOW: :group cheers:!!!!

    Glad you found us Mark!! [emoji106]

    The suggestion of printing off the membership list is a good one - as many have found, that list and the knowledge found around our club will probably serve you better than any form of extended warranty on a new bike ever possibly could.. The only thing is, I believe you have to become a full dues paying member of our club in order to have access to the list,, not sure but I am almost positive that is the case.. Our dues are only 12 bucks U.S. a year - definitely well worth the cash IMHO..

    BUILDING BOBBERS IN A SHED??? For absolute positively SURE = YOU are my kinda folk Aussie!!! You sound like just the type of person who can and WILL fly to the States, take one of these ol 83's and totally enjoy a really fun tour of our country!! That said,, here are some random thoughts that may help - what I would do in your shoes:

    1. Pull the cover on the cover over the air box (open the tank fill lid - one small screw in there to remove = slide the cover forward and its off). On top of the battery is the main fuse panel = check it carefully, if at all questionable I would - at a minimum pick up some GM style fuse holders and splice em in = do away with the fuse panel = thing is problematic at best.. I would also double check battery condition including post corrosion = these bike LOVE fresh batteries and having a good battery is the best protection for starter issues IMHO.

    2. Check air filter for mice nests and make sure its clean - leave air filter out so you can see into carbs.

    3. Remove side covers and fairing bottoms so you can access carb covers.

    4. Left side under side cover on frame rail will probably be a terminal where the 3 wires from the stator join the main harness (wont be there is someone has already hard wired it). That terminal has caused more problems than its worth for a lot of us 1st Genners.. I learned a long time ago that the best solution to over come possibly problems is just to clip it and hard wire those three wires = problem solved.. If you decide not to do so = at least pull it apart, check it for melting and corrosion, clean it real good and dielectric grease the thing - you know the routine if you have been building Bobbers.. In process of doing this = grab an ohm meter and ohm out the coils on the stator. The terminal you are looking at houses 3 white wires coming from the 3 phase stator. If memory serves me correctly - 3 to 6 ohms is spec BUT - whats really important when checking the stator is they all ohm out the same.. Just check across the wires (1-2, 1-3, 2-3) and make sure ya get the same reading.. Also check all three to ground for short..

    5. Carbs been rebuilt? Any idea by who and what that terminology means to the person who did it? Personally I would at least pull the little covers over the slides (totally accessible without removing the carbs), pull the diaphrams and check them real good for holes.. Check around the area where the diaphram meets the carb body.. These bikes run amazingly well on 3 cylinders and holes in the diaphrams is one of the main ways to make em have to drag a jug BUT = covering the distance you are talking about covering you really want the old girl to be hitting on all four all the way up to redline - make sense? If you find the fabric along the edge of on the main part of the diaphram worn very thin and not torn really bad they can be repaired very easily. I have tried a LOT of different things for repairing these but the best so far is YamaBond #5 . Clean em up with carb cleaner - dry em - lite smear of #5 , let er cure and she'll be good for THOUSANDS of miles.. I have also patch some major rips using #5 and a small piece of an old diaphram but thats not best - better to pick up new if its that bad.. When ya put the slides back in, make sure they move easily in and out - if sticky = clean them and carb hole with rag and carb cleaners till they do.. Should be REAL easy slide in and out..

    6. Drop in some new plugs - buy standard NGK DPR's - gap em at 30 thou so your at the tight end of the gap spec so they have room to grow a little from running em hard :missingtooth:.. Unscrew the plug caps from the wires = clip 1/4 inch off end of the wires and screw the caps back on.

    7. Put er back together, close the choke and start er up, spit test the pipes while she's warming up to make sure she's alive on 4. May take a bit as these scoots can be cold blooded.. As it warms a little - you should get sizzle on all 4 pipes (like mama used to check a hot iron) - dont be fooled if she doesnt - again they do run remarkably well on 3 - if its running on three figure out why..

    8. Running on 4 - look at carb throats thru air cleaner hole - wick it up and watch slides with pen light on them - make sure they are dancing in unison..

    9. Replace Air filter and cover on air box.

    10. Hook up Sync gauges and sync carbs.

    11. Idling - check volt meter on dash = 12 volts,, twist the throttle = should bounce to 14 voltsish.

    12. Spoon on those new tires = yes BUT in the process,, plan on checking the locks over real good on the bags - both locksets - one that secures the bag to the bike and one that keeps bags closed.. Also grease the gears between the wheel and the pig.. Lots of folks pull the drive shaft and do the splines - I dont make a habit of it and have yet to have problems BUT some have had problems there - your choice.. When you pull the rear wheel watch carefully where the washer placement is between the caliper mount and the swing arm - narrow washer goes outside between caliper and swingarm = thick spacer goes inward against bearing in wheel - you'll see.. Tip wheel over so gear face is facing you. Notice protrusion hub with snap ring on it? Take a sharp screw driver or snap ring pliers and pull ring = lift up and drive hub pins will come out on hub = grease em up.. Also grease up inner needle bearings..

    13. Remove rear pads, run rear caliper pistons out to new pad distance (careful - you dont wanna push em out to far) - use new pad width to judge safe distance to force pistons out with rear pedal.. Rip a clean rag in width of piston clearance and long enough that you can wrap rag around piston and pinch it between your finger and thumb to form a cleaning tool for piston. Soak rag good with brake or carb cleaner and tightly move rag back and forth around piston to clean it really well.. (do same with front brakes when replacing pads up yonder). Force pistons back in and then out to same spot with pedal - examine for drag lines - reclean until no drag marks.. This will keep you from developing a stuck brake in the pouring rain on a mountain side in the mountains of Utah:big-grin-emoticon:. Also, the rear wheel can easily be removed without having to take off the small frame work from the left side by putting the bike on the center stand and then rocking it up on one stand leg at a time and slipping a two by four under the center stand. This also works good for doing the front wheel BUT - when messing with the front wheel be VERY careful not to put rearward pressure on the bike to the point that the center stand folds up and the whole thing comes tumbling down..

    14. The early 1st Gens came with a plastic water pump impellar.. Only way to really know if yours has been updated to aluminum is to pull it down and check it. Personally I wouldnt do that. Instead I would judge it by the way it cools.. They normally run a needles width or two out of the red zone - appears running hot to some folks who arent familiar with them. If its not circulating well because the impellar has no blades left on it it will want to run in the red zone all the time.. Just a heads up.

    15. On oil refill during change.. After draining the oil - turn the key on and let the computer run thru its tests. After it does you should see the little oil container symbol showing.. This symbol is driven by a float switch in the oil pan = that should go out as you fill the case with oil.. Make sure you get new o-rings for the canister with the new filter and replace them - this will keep oil leakage at a minimum.. Only fill the engine to half way up window with filter full - over fill and she will aspirate to air filter can and will leak down on motor.. Here is a secret of mine - I run em hard and all of mine use a little oil when I do - you can keep a real close eye on your oil by hammering on it real hard in first gear occasionally (fun) - if its a quart down and time to add the little oil light will flash when the oil rocks back in the oil pan allowing the float valve to make contact and show the light - make sense?

     

    WOWZY - am I overwhelming you Aussie or is this the kind of info your looking for? More to come if ya want it?

     

     

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    Stupid solid turn signals...

    in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)

    Posted

    Sounds like your resistors are not "resisting"...or should I say they are resisting to resist? :banana:

     

    All joking aside, it sounds like you might have defective resistors or not the right ones to create the correct electrical "draw" to simulate the energy consumption that a regular bulb has to make your flasher work. I suggest that you test the resistors first to confirm they are working and giving the correct Ohm value they are supposed to be. Here is a quick video to show how to test a resistor with your multimeter:

     

    I recently used 50w 6 Ohm resistors on a car to make the flasher work with signal LED bulbs.....what resistor are you currently using for your Venture conversion?

    It's this kind of help that I find simply amazing from this group! You are a Treasure! Thank you.

     

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