RDawson

I'm thinking July at the Niagara rally when you have a larger fan base would be a great test date. I always wanted to mess with R/C planes but never pulled the trigger.

I gotta chalk this up to I don't know what I don't know coz I don't know it. Going from OEM to LED was such an improvement I'm tickled. I don't argue that it's the best but it works for me. We don't do much night riding anyway, she doesn't like it. Me being a dance with the one that brung ya kind of guy also slows me down to making lots of changes too. Now I'll quit hijacking the thread.

With only the OEM to compare to I get much better forward throw now. I can actually read road signs before I pass them 😁😁. Keep in mind I'm comparing a new LED to a 12 yr old bulb. First time I had my wife out at night she asked what I'd done since she could see where we were going now. I can see better on the bike than I can in my pickup that has brand new lights, it had the normal plastic cloudiness they get before the new ones. I'm sure it's not the market best but I'm happy with the bang for the buck.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-high-beam-and-low-beam-headlight-bulb/motorcycle-h4-led-fanless-headlight-conversion-kit-with-compact-heat-sink-2000-lumens/3930/8566/?make=105&model=3743&scc_id=1940&year=2009 This link is a plug and play headlight conversion I used. I like it compared to factory but haven't used a Daymaker to compare it to. It's a quick and cheap conversion.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?138438-Full-LED-conversion Here is a link to the thread with Leo's pics. I used the same signals and like them, I stole the idea from Leo.

Check with Mike Eykamp, many of those ebay light bars are junk. Several options out there on LEDs. I went with Custom Dynamics signals - white as running lights and amber when signal is activated. Leo3wheel has pics on here of his.

That's correct but it was worth it to me to have the extra space to work. Big hands in tight spaces is hard on an old man 😬😬. Make sure to cover the intakes or carbs to keep trash or dropped parts out.

Sorry to hear that. There's nothing worse than back pain, can't do anything without hurting. I've been using bone crunchers for 40 years, my experience has been to find a very aggressive one. Some feel the need to do a little at a time but that doesn't seem to work for me. I have one now that throws me around like a rag doll and makes all my joints move, some of those adjustments hurt like hell but get me moving quickly. It's a great arrangement, I work on his equipment keeping it in top shape and he does the same to me, no $$$ changes hands.

Yes, pull those parts, drain coolant before pulling the hose. I strongly recommend using one of the kits available, I used Skydoc's last year. He icluded a couple of tools that made pulling the shims easier. Having the kit meant I didn't have to go thru measuring and recording clearances. I would measure and immediately change that shim going thru the cycle one time. Once they were done I spun the engine, then double and triple checked clearances. It made the process much easier and quicker. If you have the tools and a little experience using them along with the instructions downloaded here it's not a bad job. Good Allen wrenches, screwdrivers, and sockets help, I also used some universal joint sockets in a few places. One tip: Do NOT spin the engine without a shim in every bucket, there are stories here of some doing that with bad bad things happening.

I bottled up 10 quarts of good ole KY apple pie this week and set it back to age for a while. I hope to keep a few to share in July I can keep everybody out of it, its gonna be my ace in the hole for the golf tournament. A few hits of that and golf balls will be flying everywhere but the hole.

Lots to think about. I'm far from an expert but I'd check the forks for proper oil, find out where the air goes, you mentioned tightening the head-too tight will cause wobble. Then I'd go to the swingarm and check the bearings and alignment there.

That's a very loaded question. Running around local and playing with the power I get as low as 31 mpg. Touring and riding like somebody acting my age I'll get up to 41-42. Two up and pulling the trailer with luggage I drop to 28-29 running 75-78 on the interstate.

We have 4 stations here with E-free. I can get 89-91-93 octane but only the 91 has a dedicated hose. The upside being when we put the bikes up it's usually only a couple weeks at a time so they don't set long at a time. I did 125 miles today with sun and 60*. The difference between winter riding and winterizing is great here.

It is a generic e-clip. Any good hardware store should have them for pennies.

It's been a while since I had the 1st gen box off but I'm thinking the small one is a drain. Someone else chime in???? The large one I'd keep plugged or hook it back to the vent.

Chances are he was overfilling the oil and had some draining from the air box. Some people use a filter on the vent to keep oil out of the box. It is simply a crankcase vent.

Leveling links raise it, PO may have installed some. I have a Baron's lowering kit for the rear with the caliper relocation bracket that I took off mine if you need it. PM me if you're interested, it'll be cheap. Be careful though if it has leveling links and you go to a lowering kit it may drop you too much.

Just brand OBSESSIVE.

This post is 11 years old.

Nope I can't imagine that. I usually tour with the wife and potty breaks always rule the distance between breaks.

It's 15* here with a windchill of 2 and ice on the roads, but it will be riding weather next week in the 50s. Record setting weather here now, but we don't have to deal with it months at a time.

Hey Fool you need to synchronize the carbs on that thing, you overshot the target n hit the south.

Puc you mentioned shop class, mine was in an auto body class at vocational school during high school. Our town was built on the car business. We were known as the used car capital of the world for years. Part of that was buying wrecks and rebuilding, one hit in front- one hit in rear- cut em in half and weld the good parts together. This was before internet and car fax. The less scrupulous guys would then buy a car without a title and attach the vin plate from one of the wrecks and sell it. Won't mention where they got the untitled cars. Used cars, wrecked cars, 90,000 mile cars with odometer cut, chop shops, forged titles, you name it. Literally hundreds per week rolled thru here. Then the insurance companies got together and started branding the titles on the internet and a bunch of dealers went to jail. When it all went down the local guys were sitting on hundreds of nice rebuilt cars they couldn't sell, many abandoned at out of state auto auctions. Some of the best welders around learned on these cars, when finished an auto expert couldn't tell the difference between a rebuilt car and a new one. They were that good.

That is exactly how I learned to weld. Back in the day we would weld quarter panels in cars with a torch before migs came out.

If you look close there is a piano hinge above the tire. You remove two bolts in the ledger board and that door hinges up to get to the tire. They brought me their smaller trucks after this one to add that door, before that they had to remove the glass racks for tires. I built this one from cab n chassis.