RDawson

Talk to @skydoc_17 OEM discs are very good.

Gotta watch him Phil, he’s sneaky, ya never know what kind of pics he’ll take. Hope they get the border open soon so we can all get together again.

Welcome to the circus we call home. You may want to post this in the Watering Hole heading, more people will see and respond. They are great bikes, you won’t be sorry. Don’t ride it like a V Twin, these thing love to spin. Around 4000 rpms is where the power is and it’ll go all day up there, don’t be afraid to down shift. Scroll down to the read only tech section and you’ll find known issues to look for. You won’t find a better place to help you keep her in top shape than here. The $12 price will pay for itself not only in repairs or tips but in the fun we have. The guys and gals here are ready to help anytime.

I still had a GPS using the factory port when I installed the others.

I hope all y’all are doing ok with the storms today and tomorrow. My daughter is in Huntsville and a niece in Tuscaloosa, both colleges are using storm shelters. Looks bad with lots of tornadoes down there.

I wonder how much longer Tweeks would’ve lasted with good oil @cowpuc

This is what my wife considers roughing it 🤣🤣🤣

Here is where I put mine.

I had a Ram ball mount on my left bar that a Garmin snapped on to. I did away with it and use a Ram X mount for my phone, I use phone for gps now.

You can lower the front by raising the forks in the triple tree by about an inch: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/topic/152-lowering-the-front-end/?tab=comments#comment-3804 To lower the rear you need a lowering kit that has longer (yes longer) dog bones and a caliper relocation bracket to keep the caliper from hitting the rear fender. Baron’s is the only brand I know of. If you decide to use a lowering kit I have one I’ll let go cheap. It was on my bike when I bought it but I’m too tall for lowering.

I ride what I like and is comfortable to me. If I worried about what others say I’d be on an HD like all the followers, besides that I am an old man so it works.

The RSV has more leg room.

Check your oil to make sure it’s not full of gas. If a float fills a cylinder with gas it’ll break rods.

Instructions to make them are in the tech section. I can punch out a set of you need me to.

Jump it from the six plug in the fairing and it will turn on with the key. Edit since Steve beat me to it, use his kit shown. He makes good stuff.

Now that is an oxymoron if I ever heard one.

The part that really bothers me the most is that kit has been mailed and insured how many times? They’ve made money every time it ships and won’t stand behind it. Thanks again Earl for what you do, that kit saved me a lot of time and headache.

Check the cruise cut off switches at clutch handle, front, and rear brakes. Sloppy levers are a common cause.

I would pull the plugs first thing to try to get a read on them. It should give you an idea where to look further. A second thought is did you get bad gas at your last fill up? I stopped at a Mom n Pop station last year going up to meet Eykamp and my bike started running rough. I got less than a 100 miles on that tank, it took about 3 tanks of fresh gas to completely purge that stuff out.

When parked is there a puddle of gas indicating a stuck float? All 4 pipes heating up equally? Going really rich all at once is unusual.

Checked plugs? Make sure it’s running on all 4 cylinders.

I think the “S” refers to the midnight edition each year. There shouldn’t be any difference in the engine. Somebody correct me if I’m wrong.

Clutch spring is usually the culprit. Mic your clutch plates, OEM plates are pretty stout.

Lots of opinions about exhaust. To me it’s a touring bike and the radio should be louder than the pipes, I listen to it up to 16 hours some days.

How long since the oil was changed? Notchy shifting and trouble finding neutral are an indicator it’s due.