Grez007

I was kinda wondering this myself, it has had several po's. if it doesnt have one i would assume that if i let it idle long enough it will still get hot enough for the fan to come on eventually right? I just havent let it sit idle long enough maybe

Heya all, finally got a short shakedown ride in today after all the winters work. All the reading ive done on this site has made the $12 membership the best investment I've made in a long time. Anyhow, bike rides pretty good, yes the brakes are pretty weak as alot of people have pointed out about the mk1, but all in the bike is running really well. So the question that ive got is about the temp gauge which alot of people say theirs run near the top of the operating range, but mine seems to not want to even get to the halfway point. I was only out for 25-30mins on rural roads, so maybe it didnt have a chance to get hot enough? I'd like to make sure the fan will come on when hot, how long would it have to idle before the fans come on?

im in Ontario,Canada. I even called the place where i want to get it inspected to ask what they check. The guy there specifically recommended that the sidestand kill system is working. I have found that most places aroun here are prtty thorough with safety inspections

thank you very much for your direction on this Jeff, the plug checks out as you describe above so i should be good once i get a new relay ordered and installed. Thanks again. Paul

i jumpered the black and black/white in the plug where the relay should live, the bike turns over but will not start. Also if i start the bike(no jumper) then insert the jumper it does kill the engine. Also i took out the cooling fan relay and plugged it in where the sidestand relay should be hoping they are the same but im not sure they are because with that relay the bike turns over but wont start(just like the jumper scenario) and fires up as soon as i take it back out, but again im not certain all the relays are the same internally. EDIT: i checked the bike bandit website and the relays located behind the dash all have different part #s so based on that i would assume they are not necessarily interchangeable.

thanks for the replies fellas, I'll go down to my local recyclers this week and see what I can find, I know he has a 83VR, hopefully the relays are still in it. I wouldn't mind so much just leaving it the way it is but it needs to work correctly to pass a safety certification so I can get my license plate for the bike

where would someone splice them together if this was the case? The connector was together and checks out how it should as per the manual. Im certainly no electricity surgeon but i would be inclined to think if they were jumpered someplace i would get continuity across all terminals of the harness? also I checked the wiring diagrams in the tech section of the forum with an electrician friend and the bike would still start and run without the sidestand relay plugged in

hello all, I have discovered that my bike will start while in gear with the side stand down. or if i start in neutral and kick it into gear with side stand down and release the clutch it does not die as it should. I did some digging and found that there isn't a side stand relay present on my bike, the harness is there(it's BLUE) but nothing plugged into it. is this likely my problem? I see that bike bandit lists the part so i assume its still available but are there other alternatives? its pretty pricey, and i'd like to be pretty sure thats my problem before dropping the $$. I tested the side stand switch and it works as it should and the icon on the dash comes on/off as it should

Does anyone use this? My brother in law thinks it's good stuff. Would it be suitable for my 83VR or would the full synthetic be asking for clutch slippage?

Thanks for taking the time to comment Freebird, I went out to the garage after dinner and knocked the carbs around a little, drained them, and started the bike up. Low and behold no more Leak! I can't wait until I can get this bike on the road and get some fresh fuel in it and burn the crap out of it.

The bowls are inboard facing each other, opposite from the diaphragm side? Do you just poke in there with the back of a screwdriver or need to remove the air box?

OK so I admit (and apologize) I got excited and posted with out doing a search first.seems I likely have a sticking float. I see a lot of different methods here and not sure how to start. I read that one fella drained his bowl then shot carb cleaner from a can up in the drain hose and another that shot compressed air in the bowl somehow, are these desperate measures or should I start with just draining the carb? Do I need to drain all of them or just the affected one? Sorry for all the questions but working on carbs is new to me and I'm learning

Hello all, almost completely have the 83vr back together from my winter full of refurbishing, I had started it and ran it here and there over the winter and it has never leaked but the other day I put a few ounces of seafoam in with the half a tank of fuel that's in it to maybe clean the carbs a little (it ran fine,but figured it couldn't hurt). Well today I fired it up and let it idle a bit, gave it a few revs and runs well but now it's leaking fuel. I traced the leak to one of the 4 little rubber hoses which come from the carbs run along the bottom of the tank and end up behind the rear shock. I look in my manual and I believe them to be air vent hoses? What causes fuel to come out of there? It's coming out in a pretty good stream and from what I can tell the hose that is leaking fuel is attached to the front right carb. It only leaks when the bike is running if that helps with diagnosis.

Thanks for the replies fellas. This sounds like a great time and opportunity to meet some new people. I live in Brant County so I'm not too far away, if someone could post Carl's address or PM me with it so I can join in. Thanks again, Paul

I'd like to attend and meet some local riders, can someone give me more details? Thanks

I purchased an 83 VR in good running/driving order back in the fall and have been picking away at some cosmetic and electrical issues to widdle away the winter. Thus far, with much help from all the folks who are on this forum, I have all the plastics off, the rear wheel and suspension taken out for inspection and cleaning and lubrication,calipers are apart for cleaning and new seal kits, fixed a couple small electrical problems along the way. I found in my dismantling that one of the previous owners along the way had disconnected the brake line from the foot pedal which feeds the left front caliper and plugged the hole with a bolt, just left the line in the bike and still hooked up to the front caliper (kinda hokey imo)but saved me a little work as I wanted to delink anyhow. The bike has a braided stainless line from the hand lever to the front right caliper already so I just need a double banjo bolt and another braided line for the left caliper. I measured and think I need a 46" long line for the left side, does that seem correct for those of you who have done this Mod? Also do I need to change my master cylinder in favor for one with a larger capacity for this modification?

my 1983 gold/gold is a Royale with radio/tape, CLASS, no CB Vin 31N-000535 produced 2/83 150,000kms (93,000miles)